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Okay, this is for my son, so forget that I have a Fiero. :P

 

How much work is involved with swappng out the engine in a 2004 325ci for a same year 330i engine? Electronics, ecu, wiring, reflash, etc?

 

He likes the fuel economy but wants more power.

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17 minutes ago, mender said:

Okay, this is for my son, so forget that I have a Fiero. :P

 

How much work is involved with swappng out the engine in a 2004 325ci for a same year 330i engine? Electronics, ecu, wiring, reflash, etc?

 

He likes the fuel economy but wants more power.

More work than selling the 325 and buying a 330...

 

Less fun than selling the 325 and buying one of the newer turbocharged models...

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Auto or manual? Either way, throw a different diff in it. Even my street car(323ci) feels totally different with the 3.38 in it now instead of the 3.07. Gas mileage suffered about 2mpg street, but highway not so much. The higher revs aren't all that bad either. If it is an auto then find a 3.64.

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If you want a big power and cheap (well for BMW) sell the e46 and get a e36 325i (m50) and slap a turbo on it.

 

It's an iron block with a very nice rod ratio and being a 2.5 it has a smaller bore than the s50/52 which means more cylinder wall thickness. 

 

You're welcome.

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Now the questions ...

 

Looking to do a low pressure turbo and am wondering what hp level will result in hurt parts in these components:

1. 330i engine

2. ZF 6 speed manual transmission

3. Stock 325i diff and axles/flanges, etc.

Edited by mender
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  • Technical Advisory Committee

I'm no expert on the m54 but I believe the head bolts are a very weak link.  Would suggest upgrading to studs, mls gasket, etc before approaching boost.

 

also, cooling systems on them are super cheesy.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 4/24/2017 at 6:00 AM, Huggy said:

I'm no expert on the m54 but I believe the head bolts are a very weak link.  Would suggest upgrading to studs, mls gasket, etc before approaching boost.

 

also, cooling systems on them are super cheesy.

Replaced the entire cooling system on mine after reading the horror stories.

 

Then sold the car. Ran a OBD II app on my phone to see the actual temps when driving it as the cooling system is so sketchy and prone to failure.

 

Btw Most know, but modern cars don't show the real temp on the gauge. The BMW would vary 35 degrees or so and the needle never moved. My Avalanche sits resolutely on 210 when it's generally around 190.

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52 minutes ago, Bandit said:

The BMW would vary 35 degrees or so and the needle never moved.

BMW seems to have this attitude about the information they send to the driver.... "hey, you don't need to know the actual temperature... you don't need to know if the car is 20 degrees hotter than it was yesterday... all you need to know is that it's still in the acceptable operation range, and if it is, the needle will stay about in the middle".

 

My 2010 BMW takes it a step further. There is no water temp gauge! "Hey... driver... I know how hot I'm running... you don't need to know.... if engine starts overheating, I'll let you know". In fact, it's not possible to overheat that car. If water temp gets too high it opens the turbo wastegate, cuts power, and limits top speed. If temp keeps climbing after that, the engine shuts off.

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14 hours ago, enginerd said:

BMW seems to have this attitude about the information they send to the driver.... "hey, you don't need to know the actual temperature... you don't need to know if the car is 20 degrees hotter than it was yesterday... all you need to know is that it's still in the acceptable operation range, and if it is, the needle will stay about in the middle".

 

My 2010 BMW takes it a step further. There is no water temp gauge! "Hey... driver... I know how hot I'm running... you don't need to know.... if engine starts overheating, I'll let you know". In fact, it's not possible to overheat that car. If water temp gets too high it opens the turbo wastegate, cuts power, and limits top speed. If temp keeps climbing after that, the engine shuts off.

My '99 M Roadster came with 3 gauges in the center of the dash: Clock, Voltmeter, Oil Temp. I used to run the car hard in warm weather and had to be careful because the gauge didn't really move until you got about 240F. I used to get my oil well over 260F at the track. I wanted real information about the car, not so much a clock, so I made some changes...

 

My car as it sits today (picture below) has: Water Temp, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp

Captured%201601-1-1%2000168.JPG

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