Administrators E. Tyler Pedersen Posted May 24, 2017 Administrators Report Share Posted May 24, 2017 I am going to be installing a proportioning valve on the BMW. trying to determine the best flare tool to buy that people have used Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logdog Posted May 24, 2017 Report Share Posted May 24, 2017 The Mastercool flare kit is awesome 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron_e Posted May 24, 2017 Report Share Posted May 24, 2017 (edited) As with anything the cheap ones work but are fidgety. If you are just doing a few for your car then the cheap kit will do, the expensive tool is much easier and faster and worth it if you are working on several cars and will be using it often. Edited May 24, 2017 by Ron_e 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technical Advisory Committee hornerevan Posted May 24, 2017 Technical Advisory Committee Report Share Posted May 24, 2017 1 hour ago, Ron_e said: If you are just doing a few for your car then the cheap kit will do, the expensive tool is much easier and faster and worth it if you are working on several cars and will be using it often. Hell if you're just doing a few, go to the nearest Autozone and rent theirs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karman1970 Posted May 24, 2017 Report Share Posted May 24, 2017 I bought the Eastwood flare tool last year. No better way if you can get the lines off the car. Worth every penny and then some. I didn't get the 37-degree set, but I still might. Rigid makes a 37-degree that I bought and works pretty well. You may look at one of their 45-degree versions if you want something a little nicer than the parts store flare tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron_e Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 16 minutes ago, hornerevan said: Hell if you're just doing a few, go to the nearest Autozone and rent theirs. Alrighty then, sorry to upset you. Yes if there is free rental that is another option. FYI I think most common is 45 degree flare. There is bubble (more Euro) and inverted flares (more North American). AN fittings are 37.5 degrees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators E. Tyler Pedersen Posted May 25, 2017 Author Administrators Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 Thanks for all the suggestions. I am looking for something I can purchase because I like having an excuse to buy new tools not to mention I have more cars to work on and this could be useful. Any more thoughts on brands to buy or what to avoid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kentite Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 If it pertains to hydraulic brake pressure there is no sense in buying anything but the best tool available. I lost brakes at MIS a couple years ago and it was SCARY! And there is this article from yesterday http://jalopnik.com/bmw-driver-survives-nightmare-crash-when-his-e30-loses-1795500447?rev=1495642667455&utm_campaign=socialflow_jalopnik_facebook&utm_source=jalopnik_facebook&utm_medium=socialflow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators E. Tyler Pedersen Posted May 25, 2017 Author Administrators Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 17 minutes ago, Kentite said: If it pertains to hydraulic brake pressure there is no sense in buying anything but the best tool available. I lost brakes at MIS a couple years ago and it was SCARY! And there is this article from yesterday http://jalopnik.com/bmw-driver-survives-nightmare-crash-when-his-e30-loses-1795500447?rev=1495642667455&utm_campaign=socialflow_jalopnik_facebook&utm_source=jalopnik_facebook&utm_medium=socialflow What do you recommend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron_e Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 40 minutes ago, Kentite said: If it pertains to hydraulic brake pressure there is no sense in buying anything but the best tool available. I lost brakes at MIS a couple years ago and it was SCARY! And there is this article from yesterday http://jalopnik.com/bmw-driver-survives-nightmare-crash-when-his-e30-loses-1795500447?rev=1495642667455&utm_campaign=socialflow_jalopnik_facebook&utm_source=jalopnik_facebook&utm_medium=socialflow So dude had a brake failure and crashes and your conclusion is that it was the tool's fault? The tool used to flare the lines, not the possible tool behind the wheel - not knowing whether he did any brake work. Poorly installed brake lines fail too regardless of the flare. This reminds me of Bob installing the high dollar pedals to get a dual master system - and the pedal will still go to the floor on failure. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kentite Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 We borrowed a Blue Point (Snap-On) from someone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kentite Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 (edited) 5 minutes ago, Ron_e said: So dude had a brake failure and crashes and your conclusion is that it was the tool's fault? The tool used to flare the lines, not the possible tool behind the wheel - not knowing whether he did any brake work. Poorly installed brake lines fail too regardless of the flare. This reminds me of Bob installing the high dollar pedals to get a dual master system - and the pedal will still go to the floor on failure. Not saying it was the tool's fault. I only posted the article because it was just published yesterday and I feel it emphisizes what can go wrong when brakes fail. Usually it is the archer and not the arrow. I just feel that using a high quality tool regardless of the job generally produces better results. So when it comes to brakes why not eliminate as many potential issues as possible. Edited May 25, 2017 by Kentite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron_e Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 If you want the best flares possible then use the pre-made lengths and put in U shapes to take up the extra length. Flare quality is marginally different with respect to the price of the tool. The high dollar tools are just easier to use and are faster. They both accomplish the job using the same operation. The more expensive tool will do it many more times before needing replacement. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhr650 Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 Another thing that hasn't come up is the material for the lines. Nickle copper lines are much easier to flare and bend than the plastic coated steel lines. They are more expensive but you can buy a whole roll on Amazon for a pretty good price. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BSFSTIRE1 Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 I own a Tires Plus (#550, junk in the trunk racing) and we do a lot of brake lines, we have a tool made by a company named Eastwood (1-800- 345-1178). It's basically a mini press and you can even do GM bubble flares (absolute nightmare if you don't have the right flare tool). Now my mechanic no longer complains when they come in. I found the tool on facebook, they had a video about it, and it works the first time, every time. I think I paid $190.00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bremsen Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 The Sykes-Pickavant flare set is similar to the Eastwood and they work very well if your working on a bench. Its real hard to beat that Eastwood kit for the $$, the Sykes kit is 2x the cost. If you want something for use while on the car, the Sykes Flaremaster2 works great too. You'll probably have to have it shipped from the UK though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustylx Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 (edited) http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-on-car-flaring-tool-for-3-16-tubing.html I run this unit for on car use. Fits in tight places and makes very good flares every time. Consistent and simple to use. We needed to add a pressure activated brake light switch in line with the in car prop valve at RA last year and it was seriously a 20min deal with bleeding the brakes. Only need 2 wrenches and your good to go. Edited May 25, 2017 by rustylx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technical Advisory Committee hornerevan Posted May 25, 2017 Technical Advisory Committee Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 (edited) 20 hours ago, Ron_e said: Alrighty then, sorry to upset you. Yes if there is free rental that is another option. FYI I think most common is 45 degree flare. There is bubble (more Euro) and inverted flares (more North American). AN fittings are 37.5 degrees. OH I'M SUPER UPSET RIGHT NOW! Hahaha On Tyler's E30, I'd bet that it's a bubble flare. That's how ze Germans like to do things. 5 hours ago, mhr650 said: Another thing that hasn't come up is the material for the lines. Nickle copper lines are much easier to flare and bend than the plastic coated steel lines. They are more expensive but you can buy a whole roll on Amazon for a pretty good price. The only trouble with the nickle copper lines is that if you mess up a bend, there's no going back, since bending it straight and then rebending it will likely work-harden it enough to brake the line (pun intended). Steel, you can get away with this a little more. That said, it is super easy to work with as long as you don't mess up. Edited May 25, 2017 by hornerevan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3G Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 32 minutes ago, hornerevan said: The only trouble with the nickle copper lines is that if you mess up a bend, there's no going back, since bending it straight and then rebending it will likely work-harden it enough to brake the line (pun intended). Steel, you can get away with this a little more. That said, it is super easy to work with as long as you don't mess up. On the other end of the spectrum. I put in stainless on a car, that stuff is hard to bend, but should never need to be replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig71188 Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 I have seen a lot of shops using this tool: http://surrauto.com/kits/ft351/ Seen it demo'd at several installer shows - works well. I just haven't had the need for one (yet)! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
housejoe Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 On 5/24/2017 at 6:47 PM, Logdog said: The Mastercool flare kit is awesome Two Words: "sliced bread" "not cheap" "worth it" 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55mini Posted May 26, 2017 Report Share Posted May 26, 2017 On 5/25/2017 at 6:12 AM, Crank Yankers Racing said: Thanks for all the suggestions. I am looking for something I can purchase because I like having an excuse to buy new tools not to mention I have more cars to work on and this could be useful. Any more thoughts on brands to buy or what to avoid? And you get married when??????? That will all change my friend :-) I know that is not helpful to finding the right tool but still helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottyk Posted May 27, 2017 Report Share Posted May 27, 2017 More stuff to break or leak, keep it simple. If you want more rear brake get a different caliper. My2cents Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron_e Posted May 27, 2017 Report Share Posted May 27, 2017 8 minutes ago, scottyk said: More stuff to break or leak, keep it simple. If you want more rear brake get a different caliper. My2cents Some cars need to adjust rear bias on a per driver basis. On our team we had 140 lb and 280 lb drivers. In the first gen RX-7 the driver sits almost on the rear wheel so the lightest and heaviest drivers had different settings, the two middle drivers used either setting. In our Mustang the driver sits mid way between the wheels so we only have one setting for wet and one for dry. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mender Posted May 27, 2017 Report Share Posted May 27, 2017 And different drivers like different amounts of rear brakes. On a Fiero that can be quite a bit of change from one driver to the next as they tend to be a little sensitive to brake balance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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