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Chevrolet 350 road race oil pan


cj25
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I am putting together a chevy 350 for the fall race at road america and I was looking for recommendations or experiences others have had for a good road racing oil pan.Thanks in advance for any replies or help.

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Speedway has a kick-out and "well" kit for cheap, however The canton pan is really nice. FWIW we ran out stock pan (305) for 4-5 races along with a remote filter and cooler. This adds some extra capacity. Make sure you have good crank case ventilation. We replaced our pan after we spun a bearing (motor had 170k on it).

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  • Technical Advisory Committee
11 minutes ago, cj25 said:

Its a 1980, I was wondering if I used the ac evaporator as a oil cooler would i have to use  points for the aeroquip lines and fittings?

 

I don't think you would have to use points for the lines and fittings. 

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26 minutes ago, cj25 said:

Its a 1980, I was wondering if I used the ac evaporator as a oil cooler would i have to use  points for the aeroquip lines and fittings?

No points but WOW that is a lot of cooling and A LOT of oil. Not sure a stock oil pump would push that thru fast enough, plus the lines a re small. The cooler we used had 5/8" fittings. The trans cooler uses 3/8's Oil temp isn't as critical as sucking the pan dry or "slosh" causing starvation.

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22 minutes ago, TiredBirds said:

No points but WOW that is a lot of cooling and A LOT of oil. Not sure a stock oil pump would push that thru fast enough, plus the lines a re small. The cooler we used had 5/8" fittings. The trans cooler uses 3/8's Oil temp isn't as critical as sucking the pan dry or "slosh" causing starvation.

 

You could run it in parallel, and then the line sizes are not critical.......right? 

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42 minutes ago, red0 said:

 

You could run it in parallel, and then the line sizes are not critical.......right? 

??? I don't think you need that much cooling. you are going to add 70lbs to the front of your car too.  For the petty 25 points I'd just grab the Canton pan, it isn't cheap but it is well made. You can also go to Speedway and get the kit for like $15 and weld it up. It;s A LOT of work. What car are you running? Try e-bay for a 6 qt pan with at least one trap door.  We ran NJMP in May, 5+ hours and our oil still looks brand new. That is with just the pan and larger oil filter. This was a track where we were in 3rd almost the entire back 1/2 of the track up in the rpms. pan kit

Edited by TiredBirds
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Use a high volume oil pump & shim it with a 1/8 washer, Harrison cooler,  canton or morose oil pan with windage tray.  If you want to spend more money get a swing pick-up for the oil pump.  Next best thing to dry sumping.

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Heater Core works for an oil cooler :) 

 

Big question you have to ask yourself is...  does it increase or decrease reliability...

 

IE the thought of adding lines and hoses, fittings adapters to the front of your car..  if its not actually required, you are just asking for more problems..   We are considering using our heater core, because our swap motor has fittings for an external oil cooler, but we dont want the points of one...  but we are still not sure we need one and will probably loop the line with a temperature sensor for now, until we see oil temps to justify a cooler.

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59 minutes ago, okkustom said:

Mender you  in with a swing pick up or ? 

I use a properly baffled stock capacity pan with four trapdoors around the stock pick-up and a factory oil to coolant heat exchanger. No pressure drop and links the oil temp to the coolant temp.

 

All the engine wants is a steady supply of non-aerated moderate temperature oil.  

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I'm thinking of doing the same - add the extra capacity filter and ditch the oil cooler. I'll save points and take weight off the nose and take another failure point away. I hate to do it before testing it though. I'm betting sticking w the synthetic oil and ditching the cooler will be just fine though. 

 

Edited by pintodave
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If the filter location/angle works in your car, get the oil filter housing off a 3/4 or 1 ton late 90's Chevy pickup. Has the oil cooler lines all plumbed up for you. Hard lines to the front of the engine then flex to the cooler.

20170621_175119.thumb.jpg.116f3de31713f1e46a38262cf7a57860.jpg

Filter right towards framerail on G bod, but may work work with remote filter.

Edited by Bandit
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6 hours ago, TiredBirds said:

??? I don't think you need that much cooling. you are going to add 70lbs to the front of your car too.  For the petty 25 points I'd just grab the Canton pan, it isn't cheap but it is well made. You can also go to Speedway and get the kit for like $15 and weld it up. It;s A LOT of work. What car are you running? Try e-bay for a 6 qt pan with at least one trap door.  We ran NJMP in May, 5+ hours and our oil still looks brand new. That is with just the pan and larger oil filter. This was a track where we were in 3rd almost the entire back 1/2 of the track up in the rpms. pan kit

Thanks for this.

 

Looks like I'll be placing another order with Speedway...

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7 hours ago, DEE DEE said:

Use a high volume oil pump & shim it with a 1/8 washer, Harrison cooler,  canton or morose oil pan with windage tray.  If you want to spend more money get a swing pick-up for the oil pump.  Next best thing to dry sumping.

I'm of the opinion high volume/high pressure pumps on sbc's cost horsepower for no benefit. Especially under 6 grand.

 

The stockers flow plenty and when you are concerned with sucking the pan dry why add to the problem.

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