smessaert Posted July 10, 2017 Report Share Posted July 10, 2017 Does anyone have pictures they can share of how they fastened their Lexan windows onto their car as reference? Were gonna put Lexan I for our rear windows in our Honda Accord. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogtired Posted July 11, 2017 Report Share Posted July 11, 2017 Big rivets. Buy the thicker Lexan. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogtired Posted July 11, 2017 Report Share Posted July 11, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reidry Posted July 11, 2017 Report Share Posted July 11, 2017 (edited) 14 hours ago, dogtired said: Big rivets. Buy the thicker Lexan. Yup, big rivets with backer plates. For side windows, rivets can be put on from the inside or outside, use the backup plates if the expansion part of the rivet is sticking out of the lexan. If you don't have a good attachment long the bottom edge, attach a piece of angle to the door to catch the bottom of your lexan. Definitely use .125 or thicker as required in the rules. The thin stuff is too fragile. Ryan Edited July 11, 2017 by reidry 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gearhead_42 Posted July 11, 2017 Report Share Posted July 11, 2017 I use 10-32 button head screws and aluminum washers and locknuts. Oversize the hole in the lexan by 1/32 or so, and tighten until *just* snug. A strip of foam sealing tape between the lexan and the car body provide the anti-rattle you want. Curves, no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reidry Posted July 11, 2017 Report Share Posted July 11, 2017 22 minutes ago, Gearhead_42 said: I use 10-32 button head screws and aluminum washers and locknuts. Oversize the hole in the lexan by 1/32 or so, and tighten until *just* snug. A strip of foam sealing tape between the lexan and the car body provide the anti-rattle you want. Curves, no problem. Good point on the tape, we used some especially on the rear window. You can also use washers with rubber laminated to one side when installing with nut and bolt. The next step would be installing plate nuts or dzus fasteners, but these are sacrificial chump cars, I want to be able to gut and prep a new door in a few hours not a couple of days. To cut the lexan a jigsaw with a narrow, medium tooth wood blade seems to leave a nice edge. Do all your cutting and as much fitting as possible with the protective plastic in place. If the foot on your jigsaw is rough or sharp in any way, cover it with some painters tape before you start cutting. A die grinder with a HSS or carbide burr can be used for detail fitting. Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhr650 Posted July 11, 2017 Report Share Posted July 11, 2017 I went a different direction, I used M5 countersunk screws and locknuts, but strong polyurethane adhesive is the main thing that is holding them in. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reidry Posted July 11, 2017 Report Share Posted July 11, 2017 54 minutes ago, mhr650 said: I went a different direction, I used M5 countersunk screws and locknuts, but strong polyurethane adhesive is the main thing that is holding them in. Countersinks in Lexan doesn't sound like fun, I'd guess the polyurethane adhesive is absorbing some of the stress. With a countersink the edge of the Lexan at the hole is very thin, perhaps knife edge which is then prone to cracking. Cracks in Lexan propagate very easily. Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbaker480 Posted July 11, 2017 Report Share Posted July 11, 2017 47 minutes ago, mhr650 said: I went a different direction, I used M5 countersunk screws and locknuts, but strong polyurethane adhesive is the main thing that is holding them in. I really like your back window, I've been trying to figure out how to make a functional hatch so we can still get in through the back for changing ice, maintenance, etc. I will be looking for some hinges and good weatherstripping in the near future. How thick is your back glass btw? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhr650 Posted July 11, 2017 Report Share Posted July 11, 2017 My rear hatch is .125 thick just like the side windows. I used stock RX7 hinges, if you look close you can see that I have 1 inch by .125 aluminum straps on both sides with the Lexan sandwiched in between and the studs on the hinges going through the aluminum straps. I shaped the rear window by clamping it between 2 stock rear glass hatches and heating everything up with a turkey fryer to soften the Lexan, hey you may be a redneck I know….. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvumtnbkr Posted July 11, 2017 Report Share Posted July 11, 2017 Does that rx7 hatch open? How are the aluminum straps attached to the car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhr650 Posted July 11, 2017 Report Share Posted July 11, 2017 Dzus fasteners at the bottom of the aluminum straps through the body. It works great, if you notice that hatch below the window all of my fuel system stuff is in there, just open the rear window, and the fuel bulkhead hatch and I can get right to work on anything you need to. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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