RV ownership class A

[Mopar 4 Life]

Recently I have been pondering the idea of purchasing a smaller class A RV. 

 

I am sure there are other chumps who own and operate one that could possibly shed some light on maintence costs, pro's and con's?

 

I have looked at 30' thor diesels, bounders, and flairs.

 

 

 

 

[Bandit]

With a Bounder you can always get some supplemental income.. 

[notbob]

I've got a 2008, 36' with the Ford V10 3 valve.

Have class 3/4 hitch with a 6000lb setup on an extended ball mount and a brake controller.

As long as I hold it around 70mph, I can get around 10-12 mpg. Pulling trailer its around 8-10.

Never even know the trailer is back there - until you go to turn and realize you are as long as a semi trailer...

Its a breeze to drive.

 

Maintenance - we bought it used in Oct 14 with 24K on it. I flushed the trans, torque converter, radiator. Changed the oil/filter, checked the diff, changed the gas filter, ran injector cleaner through the first tank, greased the 9-12 zerks and checked the brakes. Put on 6 new tires, replaced the main battery and the 2 6v coach batteries from Sams club (about 300 for all 3)

The only maintenance I have needed to do is give it a good cleaning (including roof) at the end of each season and touch up any caulk with self leveling. I change the oil with Mobile 5/30 and a motorcraft filter every 3k - which is usually twice a year. Change the generator oil/filter once a year and start it once a month for 20 minutes when it isn't winterized. During winter, I fill the lines full of RV antifreeze, put in stabilizer in the fuel tank and mothballs around in the closets, etc.... Costs me about $25 to winterize it.

 

I've had it from Ohio down to the southern keys and all around.

No real other maintenance that has needed to be done.

 

If you get a used one, check the roof and all seams well.

Look at the interior roof and edges, around the windows, etc... to make sure you don't see any leak issues and test the air conditioners, heater, water heater, fridge.

Check the plumbing lines, all the lights, outlets, etc... Test the levelers and the awning - and the slide outs.

 

DO NOT GET ONE WITH A FORD V10 2 valve... (Which was generally found before 2007) that is my personal opinion - but they had lots of issues, including blowing out spark plugs and a few other coil type issues.

Since 2007, the 3 valve had all those issues fixed.

 

Check the tire pressures cold, before ea trip.

Ideally, load the thing up and find a grain elevator or scale that you can run the fronts over, then the whole thing, then the rear and look at the card on the RV to make sure you are not overloading an axle.

This is a good link

http://www.goodyearrvtires.com/tire-care-maintenance.aspx

Read up on stuff on the left.

 

Also, don't go by the MFG on the air pressure settings.

Look at your weight and look at the Goodyear tire inflation chart and set your pressure based on that.

For instance, Ford F53 chassis that I am on says 80lbs, but my ideal based on goodyear and the weight is 95. The tires can go up to 110 cold I believe, but 95 feels good and doesn't squat.

 

I really like ours and do very little to it and it treats us well!

Any questions, let me know.

 

[DRVOLKS]

Good information on tire pressure I had been looking for it.

I do have a 2001 Ford 35ft and I am very happy with it  mine runs great dos need a chip tune . we redid the inside with all kinds of updates it looks like a South Boston condo now and we do a have a pop out all the room in the world

I have been to FL and Canada  did WG towing the Beetle it drives better with the trailer in the wind did of  this in your first year.

My wife drives it all the time on the long runs, on the long uphills it is a bit low on the power.

I did relocate the sway bar link to make the bar stiffer night to day much better on the road and adding a steering damper .

We love it and look foreword to many Chump races with it  

Bob Mann

www.DRVOLKS.com

bobtec@comcast.net

Edited July 18, 2017 by DRVOLKS

[Ogren-Engineering]

  I was looking for a C class and could not afford one , so  stumbled across this  Antique 1988  Foretravel /Oshkosh/Cat3208T  .  They can be bought sub 20K.  Foretravel and Blue Bird were the best of that era.  FT is 10K # lighter, goes faster- uses less fuel  The Cat turbo gets 10MPG, the Detroit gets about 7. 

  New is nice, old rocks steady tho.  My pusher gets10.5 MPG no matter what.

  Look at the simple stuff like tires.  They time out before they wear out.   Run them at high pressure.

   Look into  any powertrain issues on line.  The Fords eat transmissions , drive nice , suck fuel.

The Chevs suck fuel  to 8MPG (gas) .  

 At the end of your use, the diesels will still have some value. gassers not so much .  

 The modern Cummins /Allison  would be my pick.  

*** What ever you buy, drive it 70MPH and make sure you can stand it. Many suck and require airplugs, shake the windows. etc.  many tires look good but are not round or balanced . not fun. 

 Figure 2K per year without slides , more with . @ 25K miles per year .  

 

[mcewena]

Watch for rated cargo and tow capacity (assuming you're pulling a race trailer) some might be lower than you expect.  With cdn$ going up importing from US becomes more attractive but the import process requires a letter from manufacturer confirming no outstanding recalls, impossible to do if they went belly up during the downturn (lots did).   Lots of truck shops won't work on the pushers because engine access can be thru the bedroom and they don't want the hassle of staying clean while getting dirty).

[mcewena]

BTW. Buy cdn, if it was good enough for the hip...  http://www.autotrader.ca/a/Prevost/MARATHON/Mirabel/Quebec/5_31910031_20060316112858535/?ms=rv&showcpo=ShowCPO&orup=5_15_19455

 

it was on bringatrailer with a 30k reserve. 

[Rodger Coan-Burningham]

On 7/13/2017 at 10:32 AM, notbob said:

DO NOT GET ONE WITH A FORD V10 2 valve... (Which was generally found before 2007) that is my personal opinion - but they had lots of issues, including blowing out spark plugs and a few other coil type issues.

Since 2007, the 3 valve had all those issues fixed.

 

Check the tire pressures cold, before ea trip.

Ideally, load the thing up and find a grain elevator or scale that you can run the fronts over, then the whole thing, then the rear and look at the card on the RV to make sure you are not overloading an axle.

This is a good link

http://www.goodyearrvtires.com/tire-care-maintenance.aspx

Read up on stuff on the left.

 

Also, don't go by the MFG on the air pressure settings.

Look at your weight and look at the Goodyear tire inflation chart and set your pressure based on that.

For instance, Ford F53 chassis that I am on says 80lbs, but my ideal based on goodyear and the weight is 95. The tires can go up to 110 cold I believe, but 95 feels good and doesn't squat.

 

 

Agree on these points.  I have a 99 Allegro Bus with the Ford V10 (last year they made the bus in a gas burner) that I bought in 2001.  I have had all manner of coil pack issues, it is deceiving when one starts to go because it is intermittent.  I wish I had just replaced all 10 when I realized what was going on, took me a few going bad to understand.  Other than those issues the engine and trans has been relatively trouble free and has around 75,000 miles now.  I don't get the mileage notbob gets, when pulling the enclosed trailer with the car I get 6-7 the way I drive, which unfortunately is about the way I drive on track.

 

Agree on the tire comments as well.  I usually run around 100psi.  I would add that whatever you do, never, ever run them past 5 years old.  You will never wear a set of RV tires out.  It will pain you to buy new ones and take what looks like perfectly good tires off and throw them away.  I had to learn this the hard way as well.  I started blowing the first set one at a time until about the 4th one blew and it took about $5,000 worth of RV with it before I could get stopped.  I had gotten lucky on the first 3 and just had to stop and put the spare on.  Anyway, just change them when they get 5 or more.  The good part of  a class A RV flat is you have built in jacks, just lift the wheel off and change it.  When looking at used units, this is something to make sure you check before buying, offer accordingly.

Edited July 15, 2017 by Five Benjamin Racer

[Ogren-Engineering]

True about the pushers. The engine is under the bed.  Much service is done from under,  but you need to lift the bed up  every 50K or so to tension the belts.  Quiet on the road even with  straight pipe /resonator.  I love mine but also do the work .  

[DEE DEE]

No one seems to mention when the RV breaks down on the road and you need a tow and work done far away from home.   $$$$$$$$$

[DRVOLKS]

On 7/16/2017 at 1:43 PM, DEE DEE said:

No one seems to mention when the RV breaks down on the road and you need a tow and work done far away from home.   $$$$$$$$$

I use a Good Sam program on the RV it covers a lot tow, service, room, a car if needed. I have never had to use it but it will take the bit out of the cost.

Bob Mann

www.DRVOLKS.com

bobtec@comcast.net

 

[Boy Blunder]

YES!!   Get the Good Sam program.  Best money I ever spent during my 2 years of  RV ownership.   Blown Tranny Seal,  failed e brake system,  vapor locked fuel pump,  2 blown tires.   They sent help  out each time.    36' Class A Ford V8.   Towing always required one of the  really  big rig  tow trucks. 

[Andrew D Johnson]

I could see a class A RV being a PITA. I'm not sure I would want anything larger than my class C. 

 

[Rodger Coan-Burningham]

2 hours ago, red0 said:

I could see a class A RV being a PITA. I'm not sure I would want anything larger than my class C. 

 

I have had both, the pita is the c. The A has more room, easier to work on (in my opinion), usually more power, easier to get in and out of the driver seat/comfort, and I find it just as easy to operate in spite of size.  Mine is 32' and I personally don't want one more than 34' just for turning, parking lots, etc. 

[Andrew D Johnson]

1 hour ago, Five Benjamin Racer said:

 

I have had both, the pita is the c. The A has more room, easier to work on (in my opinion), usually more power, easier to get in and out of the driver seat/comfort, and I find it just as easy to operate in spite of size.  Mine is 32' and I personally don't want one more than 34' just for turning, parking lots, etc. 

 

I have never towed with a class a, so that is interesting to know. 

[miatainium]

What kind of service does a Class A require?  And where do you get it serviced?

[notbob]

2 hours ago, miatainium said:

What kind of service does a Class A require?  And where do you get it serviced?

 

Personally, all I ever really do is check tire air pressure, replace oil as needed (engine and generator) and grease all the zerks, winterize as needed and then check the basics each year like fuel filter, radiator fluid, brake pads, brake and power steering fluid and check the air filter. For me and the 3v Ford V10, there really isn't much maintenance at all...

As long as the fluids and such look good, move on

 

[mcewena]

On July 18, 2017 at 6:43 PM, Boy Blunder said:

YES!!   Get the Good Sam program.  Best money I ever spent during my 2 years of  RV ownership.   Blown Tranny Seal,  failed e brake system,  vapor locked fuel pump,  2 blown tires.   They sent help  out each time.    36' Class A Ford V8.   Towing always required one of the  really  big rig  tow trucks. 

Coachnet has towed me 3 times (probably 500 miles) in 1 year without balking and they don´t send the junk mail goodsam does.

[Bandit]

12 minutes ago, mcewena said:

Coachnet has towed me 3 times (probably 500 miles) in 1 year without balking and they don´t send the junk mail goodsam does.

Jesus... At what point does a Duramax and hotel room become a better deal? 

[Ogren-Engineering]

1 hour ago, mcewena said:

Coachnet has towed me 3 times (probably 500 miles) in 1 year without balking and they don´t send the junk mail goodsam does.

 What the hell are you driving?   Time to trade?. Please tell us what not to get  .

  Most Class Cs are weak in the rear chassis for towing anything big.  The Chevs have no frame . Do the newer ones?  I spent one summer welding 2x4 tubes along the rails and welding directly to the hitch  and a few Chevy class C.  The rear window fell out of one ..

 The class A operate well under the max load for the powertrain, while the C operate a little over  and blowsheetup more often .  

 I was looking for a C but could not find anything that I could afford and stumbled on this A.  The Sprinter looked good until I read some reviews.   Still big bucks and lots of tow ins. 

 The new bigA Ford 450 and 550 look pretty good .  The Chev  U haul size looks good also .

Edited July 21, 2017 by flyinglizard

[craig71188]

I am shopping for another RV now as well.  I have had "A"'s & "C"'s.  To me the best deal going right now are the early/mid '90's pushers.  No slides, Cummins 250-300hp and 6 speed Allisons - if you can live w/36'.  I need a 30' to be able to store it at home.  There are also some good deals to be had on earlier gas "A"'s, but pre '92 you are stuck with carburetor and will not get overdrive (unless you get the rare one where a Gear Vendors unit was added).  The early gas "A"'s with 3 speed (no overdrive) transmission will to great, but many are used up/blown up by 50K-60K by owners running them at 70 mph and they are geared for 55.  My 33' Holiday Rambler Imperial was an incredible coach, but was turning 2800-3000 rpm if you wanted to run 65 - big block motors will run that (and more to get to 70), but wear out fast.  See how many have "new motors" in them at relatively low miles. 

 

My current shopping list includes:

1) Foretravel - fiberglass body, air suspension

2) Safari - Aluminum skin (careful with the Treks - some lack any real tow capacity, especially the early Isuzu diesels)

3) Wanderlodge - The FC front engines are slow but incredibly durable with lots of tow capacity.  87-88 are 300 hp w/ZF tansmission.  Or you can look at the SP (single axle pusher) or PT (tag axle pusher)

4) Vogue - mid '90's were on Crown bus chassis - very high build quality

5) Barth - all aluminum coaches, some models used the early Cummins w/only 160hp and a 4 spd trans - very slow...

 

Personally I'm not such a fan of many of the common brands once they (almost) all went to glue laminate construction of the outer walls.  Seems it's not so much a case of "if" they will delaminate, but "when" will they delaminate.  Looked at the Sprinter based "C" (or "B+") for the mileage, but they are limited to 5K towing max, and usually towing at the "max" is not real comfortable.

 

As to road service, I will likely go Coachnet - once "Good Sam" got bought by Camping World, I lost interest based on the numerous horror stories I have heard about their business practices/management.

 

Just my $ .02,  worth what you paid for it. 

[Ogren-Engineering]

The FT has steel frame under the glass body with 1.5 in of foam all around. Even the floor. 

 All are good. 

[ASenna]

Jesus, we've all gone soft...Class A, Class C, hotels...what the heck happened to the good ole days of 24 hour races and sleeping in the pits for Pete's sake.  Those 24 hours races are, were the true measure of a great endurance team.  Strategy, preparation, mental fortitude.   

[mcewena]

12 hours ago, craig71188 said:

Looked at the Sprinter

Um about that tow question....

 

To be fair 2 of the tows were on the same day ´cause they towed me to a shop in the wrong direction that I didn´t want to deal with (again coach net didn´t blink).    But they were all due to a blown piston in the end.  Merc engines were supposed to be bullet proof.    Yea to the 3,500 to 5k towing.

[craig71188]

19 hours ago, ASenna said:

Jesus, we've all gone soft...Class A, Class C, hotels...what the heck happened to the good ole days of 24 hour races and sleeping in the pits for Pete's sake.  Those 24 hours races are, were the true measure of a great endurance team.  Strategy, preparation, mental fortitude.   

Oh, well, 24 hr races are a different breed.  Most of our stuff is 2 races - a motorhome is great. 

 

24 hr, yes, sleep in the pits (next to a generator for the "white noise" to help you sleep)!  Even for a 24hr having a "food truck" (RV) is great and MAY get you someone who will come and keep you fed!