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Changing engine location


carzero
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I'm building a Chumpcar I hope to start campaigning in the 2018 season. I'm a glutton for punishment so I'm using a painfully gutless 3.0 liter '07 Ford Ranger as a platform. Obviously, it has a very unfavorable rear weight percentage that I'd like to make a little better. How does my VPI score change by shoving the motor back a couple inches? I'm not even talking about altering the firewall, either, just grinding out some slots in the motor mounts and in the trans crossmember could get me at least an inch, I think. Admittedly, it might not do much but at least it's something in the right direction.

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Sounds fun to me!

If all you are doing is slotting and drilling new holes in existing parts / frame stuff, it's zero points!! If you have to weld in some steel to make your changes work, then the points for the steel is 2 pts. / sq. ft. And if you end up having to replace the motor mounts then it's 10 points to replace those.

 

Make sure it's safe, even though it's OK to make this change, if tech thinks it isn't a safe installation they won't let you race.

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3 hours ago, carzero said:

I'm building a Chumpcar I hope to start campaigning in the 2018 season. I'm a glutton for punishment so I'm using a painfully gutless 3.0 liter '07 Ford Ranger as a platform. Obviously, it has a very unfavorable rear weight percentage that I'd like to make a little better. How does my VPI score change by shoving the motor back a couple inches? I'm not even talking about altering the firewall, either, just grinding out some slots in the motor mounts and in the trans crossmember could get me at least an inch, I think. Admittedly, it might not do much but at least it's something in the right direction.

Its gonna be slow....You have enough fuel and spare points for a 4.6!

 

While doing the swap move the entire cab and driveline back ;)

 

 

This will make the second Ranger in Chump, you need to make friends with Ogren.

 

 

 

Edited by Team Infiniti
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Thanks for the replies. I've owned my Ranger since new and racked up 211,000 slow, slow miles on it. It came time to part with it this Spring and I just couldn't do it. I've owned a couple 3rd-gen F-bodies and now I have an old V-12 Benz in my garage, so, I'm trying to keep my streak alive of making poor transportation decisions. I'm hoping a crap-ton of aero bits and making it as light as possible will at least allow me to maintain a respectable speed out there next Summer. I'll polish up this turd real nice.

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15 hours ago, carzero said:

I'm building a Chumpcar I hope to start campaigning in the 2018 season. I'm a glutton for punishment so I'm using a painfully gutless 3.0 liter '07 Ford Ranger as a platform. Obviously, it has a very unfavorable rear weight percentage that I'd like to make a little better. How does my VPI score change by shoving the motor back a couple inches? I'm not even talking about altering the firewall, either, just grinding out some slots in the motor mounts and in the trans crossmember could get me at least an inch, I think. Admittedly, it might not do much but at least it's something in the right direction.

I would think it would be zero points if you do it all yourself. You might also want to consider moving the tank and battery back over the rear wheels (or someplace in the bed) I'm not sure 1" would be worth the effort. 

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Should be a fun build to follow, I'm surprized there aren't more Ranger/Exploder builds. As Infinity said, 4.6 drops in, 5.0 came stock in the Exploder, so that is a no-brainer for the ford camp... 

 

If all I had to do was screw off in life and build endless amounts of Chumpers, I'd definitely attempt the build. 

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I've removed about 350 pounds out of my Racin' Ranger since I dreamed up this terrible idea a couple months ago. Sitting at about 2950 (full of fuel, no driver) right now and rear percentage is up to 42%, from 39%, when I started. I'd love to be below 2800 pounds and 45% rear after it's all gutted and caged, but, we'll see. I've already moved the battery to the box and plan on moving the fuel tank rearward and closer to the midline of the truck in the near future. I've toyed with the idea of sticking the radiator back there, also, but I'm probably just asking for trouble with no appreciable gain in terms of adding rear percentage, anyway. The drivetrain will be staying stock, for now, save for an Explorer rear end (bigger ring gear, limited-slip, rear discs). Maybe do a 5.0 and manual trans swap once I blow up the 3.0 liter. But, then again, I might do the swap sooner once I realize the futility of trying to beat an E30 with a pick-up! Thanks for the advice, everyone.

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2 hours ago, pintodave said:

Should be a fun build to follow, I'm surprized there aren't more Ranger/Exploder builds. As Infinity said, 4.6 drops in, 5.0 came stock in the Exploder, so that is a no-brainer for the ford camp... 

 

If all I had to do was screw off in life and build endless amounts of Chumpers, I'd definitely attempt the build. 

Waiting for Tacoma to show up with a Vortec in the S10....

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9 hours ago, carzero said:

I've removed about 350 pounds out of my Racin' Ranger since I dreamed up this terrible idea a couple months ago. Sitting at about 2950 (full of fuel, no driver) right now and rear percentage is up to 42%, from 39%, when I started. I'd love to be below 2800 pounds and 45% rear after it's all gutted and caged, but, we'll see. I've already moved the battery to the box and plan on moving the fuel tank rearward and closer to the midline of the truck in the near future. I've toyed with the idea of sticking the radiator back there, also, but I'm probably just asking for trouble with no appreciable gain in terms of adding rear percentage, anyway. The drivetrain will be staying stock, for now, save for an Explorer rear end (bigger ring gear, limited-slip, rear discs). Maybe do a 5.0 and manual trans swap once I blow up the 3.0 liter. But, then again, I might do the swap sooner once I realize the futility of trying to beat an E30 with a pick-up! Thanks for the advice, everyone.

I put a 7.5" Mustang LSD in my Ranger, best thing I ever did for that truck.  There's also a way to mount Mustang calipers on the stock 7.5" rear end housing.  

 

That being said, I suppose you have to "pay" for the diff. swap anyways, so you may as well go with the 8.8".  It is stronger and much more common.  It would likely help your weight percentage as well...just in the wrong unsprung weight way.  

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18 hours ago, carzero said:

...I've already moved the battery to the box and plan on moving the fuel tank rearward and closer to the midline of the truck in the near future....

Check with tech before you move the fuel tank:

 

9.10.2. Fuel Tanks and Cells

   9.10.2.1. Stock fuel tanks in stock locations OR approved fuel cells are the only fuel sources allowed for competition.

   9.10.2.2. NON-OEM REPLACEMENT OR SWAPPED FUEL TANKS ARE NOT ALLOWED. It’s either stock, in the stock location, or an approved fuel cell with the proper installation.

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That should have the 19 gal tank.   Use a 22 gal cell behind the axle . Maybe the radiator also . Oh , remove the bed, unbolt the body and move it back as far as the steering column will allow.  Then install engine.  Shove it back until the shifter shows up near the seat.

  I chose this truck because it has 20 gal fuel  and is 200pts.  Plenty left for a swap. 

 

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Edited by flyinglizard
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  Moving the motor to the bed will make issue shifting. An auto would solve that but...... I do not think there would be an issue moving the fuel tank to the back if you fab in a quality fuel cell. Ask before you do it. Its better than right behind the driver.

 

  I helped a fellow with a Ranger years back. Moved the cab back 6 inchs. Motor back 5 inches. Chopped the top 4 inches.  52 to 48 front to rear ratio. It was a TON of work. Had to add to the front fenders and cut the bed. It was a drag car with a 521 c.i. motor and a 9 inch rear. He named it the widow maker. It was an ugly monster!  That is the fun of a full frame unit. Alot of possibilities. 

 

Good luck with your build.

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