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Someone brought up in another thread about a CTS build so I figured I would share.  

 

 

Just to get a few things out of the way, I know this car is heavy, I know it start out at 530 points, I know it don't have many options as far as shocks go, I know it's an odd ball build.  Why did I do this?  It's not a BMW #1, and it's what I know #2.  I've worked for a Cadillac dealer for 15 years and have been managing the service department for the last 3.  

 

I rented a seat in Thing 3PO with Justin Lee and Thing 3 Racing last year and I've been hooked ever since.  I sold my 2014 Camaro SS 1LE and bought a rusted out 2003 Cadillac CTS off of Craigslist for $850 and a new car trailer.  I've been working on this car for just under a year now and for having rotator cuff surgery in November I feel like I've gotten a lot done.  

You can follow me on Facebook too: https://www.facebook.com/Daring-Greatly-Racing-137231636746199/

 

More post to come tomorrow!

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The trick is that if you burn 1 or 2 quarts every stint, you kind of always have fresh oil. Tis the Honda way! 

Ready for Gingerman!   Future member getting her seat fitted. 

Our first test day at Gingerman Raceway was a great success and the car exceeded all of our expectations.  It was in the high 80's and partly sunny for most of the day.  The coolant temps stayed betwe

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Poking around on Ebay and Craigslist I found out that CTS interior parts can bring in some good money.  I salvaged what I could from the interior of the 2003 with 189,000 miles on it and started posting most of the stuff on Ebay.  The radio went first  followed by the door panels and the leather seat covers.  Window switches, speakers, lock switches, door modules,  hell even the individual seat motors from the power seat adjusters sold quick since you can't get them separate from the adjuster assembly. It took a lot of time to post that stuff on Ebay but after selling the interior stuff, 3.2L engine, 5 speed manual transmission I was able to bring in around $3000 on a car that I bought for $850.  

 

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The 3.2L and the 5 speed manual only came in the 2003 and some of the 2004 CTS's and nothing else in the states used this powertrain.  The 3.2L is a timing belt engine with a strange oil cooler buried deep under two intake manifolds and known to be an issue.  The 3.6L  LY7 that started coming in the 2004 CTS is used in everything from the CTS to front wheel drive SUV's to front wheel drive sedans.  The oil pan and in some cases the timing covers can be a little different, but they are cheep, and have more power and torque.  I will be using a 6 speed manual transmission that was used in the CTS from 2004 and carried over to the 2nd gen manual cars as well.  

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The front and rear knuckles on the CTS are the same as the CTS-V knuckles along with most of the suspension minus shocks, springs, and sway bars.  New front CTS-V calipers are dirt cheep so I picked up a pair along with a set of used rear calipers.  

I had a set of 6 piston CTS-V calipers on my 14 SS 1LE and had some issues with brake fluid weeping out of the bleeders when they got hot and eventually I stripped a bleeder and had to install a repair kit.  I found that all the other bleeders kept weeping but the bleeder with the repair kit did not.  I ended up installing repair kits in all the calipers and had no issues with leaking bleeders after that and have done the same on these calipers.  

 

 

 

 

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I took the subframes, and all the steel suspension stuff that was rusted to the sand blaster and had them cleaned up, brought them back to work and sprayed them with primer until I was able to paint them this past weekend.   I picked up a bushing set from Revshift that includes the rear subframe, front and rear upper and lower control arm bushings, trailing arm bushings, and rear diff bushings.  

No more rust!.jpg

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Just about the time that I get the 2003 all stripped down a 2004 198,000 mile 3.6L was traded in to the dealership.  I've know the customer for years and new that his job had him driving a lot so most of the mileage was highway.  All the maintenance was done at my dealership and I had all the records.  The owner of the dealership was fully aware of my project and gave me a great deal on this car.  The rust on this car was about the same as the 2003 and this car had a sunroof so I didn't see starting over as a good idea.  My plan for this car is to take the engine out and freshen it up, sell the automatic transmission, use the limited slip diff, part out the interior and keep a bunch of spare body parts.

 

I used it to check out seat fitment as well.  

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The car has been at Red Mist for a few weeks now.   I was told on Saturday that all of the rust is repaired, holes are patched, and cage is starting this week.  

 

I figured while the car was out of the trailer it would be the perfect time to protect the floor the trailer.  I put down some Rustoleum Epoxy to protect the floor from oil and what ever else the CTS might leak in the future.  

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1 hour ago, hcsi99 said:

The front and rear knuckles on the CTS are the same as the CTS-V knuckles along with most of the suspension minus shocks, springs, and sway bars.  New front CTS-V calipers are dirt cheep so I picked up a pair along with a set of used rear calipers.  

I had a set of 6 piston CTS-V calipers on my 14 SS 1LE and had some issues with brake fluid weeping out of the bleeders when they got hot and eventually I stripped a bleeder and had to install a repair kit.  I found that all the other bleeders kept weeping but the bleeder with the repair kit did not.  I ended up installing repair kits in all the calipers and had no issues with leaking bleeders after that and have done the same on these calipers.  

 

The 2003-2007 CTS came with a 5x115 lug pattern but the CTS-V was a 6 lug so unless I custom drilled rotors for 5x115 there are no rotor options that will work for a 5x115 lug car to use CTS-V brembos.  By comparing the hub from a 2003 to a hub from a 2008 I was able to find that the hub will bolt up and the axle shaft will fit but the abs sensors are different.  

I mocked up a rear wheel with the axle shaft going through the hub, a 2010 Camaro SS rear rotor, and grabbed an 18 inch 5x120 wheel off of a currant generation CTS to make sure it all fit.  

 

 

 

Cool Build!  Look forward to watching, please keep posting updates.

 

Questions about your build:

 

What are you going to claim the car as?  2004 CTS?  That will get you the 3.6 & 6spd for 530 pts?

 

Are you going for an EC build with this car?  Im not sure how the hub swap will be points costed?  

 

Are the CTSV Brembos within 2x for the brakes?  I think I remember GM brakes being pretty cheap. Hopefully theres some good pad compounds outthere for you.

 

WTF is with GM using random wheel bolt patterns on the 1g CTS's... who decided on 5x115, or whatever that silly 6bolt lug pattern is...

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The car will be claimed as a 2004 at 530 points to start.  Not to beat a dead horse, but I want to build a car that will be reliable, and fun to drive and not have to sacrifice any of that for points.  I love the Chump community, but I can't help but feel that the VPI and swap formulas seem to favor some cars more than others.  I know Chump is designed to keep the cars competitive within a budget, but the power to weight formula for classing cars appeals more to me.  If I show up to a Chump event and get put in EC I'll be fine with that.  My first goal is just to finish the damn race.  

 

The brake calipers are little over the 2 times rule.  A quick google search shows a new CTS-V front caliper at $152 each and a 2004 CTS caliper at $54.00 each. 

 

I never understood the 6 lug wheels on the first gen CTS-V.  Sure doesn't leave to many wheel options.  A lot of guys had the factory wheels widened so they could run a wider tire.    

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20 minutes ago, hcsi99 said:

The brake calipers are little over the 2 times rule.  A quick google search shows a new CTS-V front caliper at $152 each and a 2004 CTS caliper at $54.00 each. 

 

This is Chumpcar homie, we don't use dealership prices :lol: 

 

looks under 2x to me...

 

 

 

cts caliper.JPG

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I rebuilt the shift linkage over the weekend giving it a fresh paint job and replacing the worn out bushings on the rod ends and the support rod bushings with polyurethane bushings.  I also replaced the worn rubber bushing on the end of the shift lever with a brass bushings.  If you've ever driven a CTS with a manual transmission then you know how soft the shifters feel.  I'm looking forward to feeling the difference soon.  And I'll be keeping the fancy stock wood shift knob too!

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On 9/19/2017 at 10:50 AM, Justin9 said:

This car would be like Smokey and Barney's rich cousin from the City...   btw, I only paid $100 bucks for my CTS -V calipers from Oreillys.

You guys have V8's though. 

 

Curious what points Chump would assign to a 04 V Series....B) guessing a lot.

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I was able to get the engine mostly torn down on Saturday.  For 198,000 miles I'm very impressed with how clean and not worn this engine is.  This guy was religious about changing his oil every 5,000 miles and this engine shows it.  I've seen engines come through our shop with 60,000 miles that had more wear and a lot more sludge.  We had one not long ago that had so much sludge you could see the camshaft cap bolts.  

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  • hcsi99 changed the title to Daring Greatly Racing's Cadillac CTS Build Thread #527

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