turbogrill Posted January 18, 2018 Report Share Posted January 18, 2018 I just finished replacing all rubber hoses with nice steel braided lines and AN fittings. Now I wished I just had replaced the old rubber hoses with new rubber hoses and done AN to barb fittings on the fuel rail. First it's costly, I probably spend close to $1000 on fittings, tools and hoses. The same amount for rubber is much less. I also had 3 leaks: - 2 hoses was badly assembled (by me) - 1 AN flare had a small dent In my case it would be safer to just stick with the rubber. It also so much easier to work with rubber hoses, they bend better and it's easy to get the correct size. I guess I got fooled by pictures of fancy engine bays Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMoneyWasters Posted January 18, 2018 Report Share Posted January 18, 2018 I've had 2 braided brake hoses break while racing. I think it's due to the sheer number of brake pad changes and how much it gets moved around. I have changed back to rubber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TiredBirds Posted January 18, 2018 Report Share Posted January 18, 2018 For what gas? or brakes? I like to use hard steel lines as much as possible for gas. Small rubber after the pick-up, then another small line from pump to carb. We run braided lines on all 4 corners, but we have a Gen III F-body so they are CHEAP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cagedruss Posted January 18, 2018 Report Share Posted January 18, 2018 Couple of things. Brake hose is Teflon lined wrapped in steel or Kevlar. Fuel or oil is rubber covered in steel or Kevlar. Not the same for the Camaro team for changing pads. Teflon has a life span especially when the house is being kinked . Try to find a way to limit the stain on the house while doing brakes. I have -6 steel braid for my fuel line in my car. Cell to filter, pump, bulkhead fitting, hose to bulkhead fitting, regulator then to carb. Whole thing cost me around $300 from Aeroquip. I went that route because hose is removable and runs inside the car not underneath. Every connection requires a female and male connector and the price was still bearable. I didn't run all steel tube because I have seen them crack it break in a wreck so I want flexible. Some will say mine might leak but at 8 psi max pressure I'm not that concerned. I check every season the hose for flexibility and replace every time a section gets stiff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhr650 Posted January 18, 2018 Report Share Posted January 18, 2018 If you are working with braided steel lines this tool will be the best money you ever spend. Wrap the hose with tape where you want to cut it and this tool makes perfectly clean cuts without any wire bits fraying and being a pain to get into the nuts. I have used this cutter for hoses up to a -10 with no problems, a good cutter, good tape (I like fiberglass reinforced strapping tape) and some practice on your technique and you can make up hoses in no time. https://www.harborfreight.com/28-inch-cable-cutters-6649.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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