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Hi everyone! (Hope this is an OK place to put this).

I've been floating around asking some questions and finally got around to building our first Car! 

We're starting with a 1992 Suzuki Swift GT. I've been a Geo Metro fanboy for years and this is the Mecca for all Metro owners. I was able to score this one dirt cheap locally and decided to use it as the foundation for our first ChampCar! It's in pretty good shape overall. Great compression and only one rust spot (rare for Central Alabama). We finally had our first "Team Day" and started stripping it down last night and accomplished what we set out to do! 

Planning on pressure washing the entire car today and then will start working on suspension! 

Our goal race is Barber in December. 

Hope to see y'all on track! 

Starting with BEFORE:

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And AFTER!

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Very clean car, makes everything so much nicer when you have something to weld to!

 

Every ounce counts on a small car like yours so get rid of everything that doesn't make it go fast!

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Nice. Those things are rockets .  I may have a source for engines that where removed  when new.  Last time at the place, he had a few left over on skids.   You  might need a spare.  

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As of now, I've got 2 spare engines, but I'd certainly be interested in a low mileage engine! 

Day 2 of work update! 

We finished pulling out the rest of the dash: heater core, jute padding, and unnecessary wiring. I cleaned up the car as well. We also modified the dash (cut the bottom half off). Removed most of the dash wiring and hooked everything up to make sure it still ran. All is well in that category. 

My wife says I have to spend family time next weekend (we have a 4month old), so i'm not sure how much work will get done in the next week. May start accruing parts in the meantime. 

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Hi guys and welcome to ChampCar!!!

 

I’ve got a question for you. Do you know how reliable the alternator is in that vehicle? I’m looking to get rid of the boat anchor in my car and was thinking of using the Metro/Swift alternator.

 

Ron

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Suzuki Swift Gti (in my profile pic) was my first car and I still have it, along the way I got a parts car that was rusted out and took all the parts off of it. Along the way I have collected various performance parts(LSD, cams,etc) and one day hope to cage it in race it one day. Let me know if you need anything, I have a few spares.

11 minutes ago, Ronh911 said:

Hi guys and welcome to ChampCar!!!

 

I’ve got a question for you. Do you know how reliable the alternator is in that vehicle? I’m looking to get rid of the boat anchor in my car and was thinking of using the Metro/Swift alternator.

 

Ron

Just as reliable as any Denso or Mitsu alternator in any other Japanese car, just smaller.

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6 minutes ago, morganf said:

Suzuki Swift Gti (in my profile pic) was my first car and I still have it, along the way I got a parts car that was rusted out and took all the parts off of it. Along the way I have collected various performance parts(LSD, cams,etc) and one day hope to cage it in race it one day. Let me know if you need anything, I have a few spares.

Just as reliable as any Denso or Mitsu alternator in any other Japanese car, just smaller.

Thanks.

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3 hours ago, Ronh911 said:

Hi guys and welcome to ChampCar!!!

 

I’ve got a question for you. Do you know how reliable the alternator is in that vehicle? I’m looking to get rid of the boat anchor in my car and was thinking of using the Metro/Swift alternator.

 

Ron

Just as morganF said, they're pretty run of the mill, reliability-wise, but one thing to consider is that the 89-94 Metro Alternators are only 35amp, while the Swift and later year Metros (95+) are 55amp. 

I will probably convert over to a GM CS130 alternator for easy purchase opportunities. 

Kyle 

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Working on suspension this weekend once the Mrs goes to bed (so I can sneak out to the shop). Hope to have it ready for alignment Monday! 

 

Kyle

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Nice to see another Alabama team coming out to run. Good luck with the build, maybe I'll see ya testing at Barbers here soon

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13 hours ago, TchDwnUGA said:

Working on suspension this weekend once the Mrs goes to bed (so I can sneak out to the shop). Hope to have it ready for alignment Monday! 

 

Kyle

  Alignment ???  You got it caged already ?  

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48 minutes ago, okkustom said:

  Alignment ???  You got it caged already ?  

Indeed... and you certainly don't want to align it until it's at full race weight and fully assembled. Lots of (all?) cars change camber and/or toe as ride height changes.

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1 hour ago, okkustom said:

  Alignment ???  You got it caged already ?  

 

No, but I want it aligned enough to be roadworthy for shakedown tests and possibly autoX while we're waiting for the cage install. 

 

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7 minutes ago, TchDwnUGA said:

No, but I want it aligned enough to be roadworthy for shakedown tests and possibly autoX while we're waiting for the cage install. 

Do it yourself.. alignment is really easy unless suzuki is weird or something. If you don't know how to adjust it you will be up a creek if you end up with 1/2" of toe out after light contact during a race.

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Yes do it yourself:

 

Max out your caster, within the stock limit it will be safe for sure.

Use a level and the top and bottom of the tire sidewall to set and calculate the camber with the wheels straight ahead.  Set around 2 degrees negative.

Make some toe plates and set the toe around neutral or whatever the speedy guys will tell you if you can find them. 1/8" toe in or out or neutral will be close enough for auto-X.

 

Recheck all settings as one will affect another.  Recheck everything again.  Go hard on the track. 

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21 minutes ago, TchDwnUGA said:

Does anyone have any experience with these, or recommend something similar? 

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F391990145709

 

We made our own that looks pretty much exactly like that.

 

One item of note, take the reading from both tape measures then swap them front to back and ensure the readings are the same.  Tape measures will vary, find two that give you the same readings front to back.

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6 hours ago, Team Infiniti said:

Google wheel alignment app ;)

 

 

You teenagers and your fancy fandangled "APP" ...

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13 hours ago, Ron_e said:

 

We made our own that looks pretty much exactly like that.

 

One item of note, take the reading from both tape measures then swap them front to back and ensure the readings are the same.  Tape measures will vary, find two that give you the same readings front to back.

For a long time I used two pieces of 1/2" square tubing, each about 18" long. When you buy your two tape measures, hook them both on an edge and pull them out to about 60" and compare tapes until you get a good match and get those. Mark one front and the other rear just in case and be consistent.

 

20 hours ago, TchDwnUGA said:

 

No, but I want it aligned enough to be roadworthy for shakedown tests and possibly autoX while we're waiting for the cage install. 

 

For FWD start with 1/8" toe out in the front and as close to zero in the back as you can. You might end up with more toe out on both ends as you get used to the car. 

Edited by mender
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15 hours ago, TchDwnUGA said:

Does anyone have any experience with these, or recommend something similar? 

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F391990145709

Looks like a nice product, but I would never spend that much money for a couple plates, 2 tape measures, and a digital inclinometer.

You can get the same results with some hand made pieces. A digital inclinometer is however necessary. We use a simple 1" square tube with a couple small spacers on it for camber, and use 4 jack stands and a roll of kite string for toe.

*edit:  If you don't have a digital inclinometer, @thewheelerZ describes below a simple way to check camber without it.

 

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Edited by mcoppola

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@mcoppola  Realistically, do you even need a digital inclinometer?  If you want to get really simple, what is wrong with a simple piece of plywood with two screws/bolts into the end that are spaced to hit your wheel in the same spot as your square tube, then a plumb bob hanging parallel to the flat face of the plywood with a protractor (or similar markings) to give you the angle.

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@thewheelerZ You're exactly right. I posted somewhere a while back with pics about how we used a level and a scale (ruler to some) and did some trig to get the angle. The results agreed with a digital inclinometer within a tenth or 2 tenths of a degree. A plumb bob and plywood would do the same thing.

 

large.image.jpeg.ec3218e2a39e9fa301bd8452df282d5e.jpeg

 

Edited by mcoppola
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