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Does anyone have a repair manual for the 87-91 getrag 260?    325i   I am not having much luck finding one to buy.  I am willing to buy, borrow, or rent one if you have one. Alternatively , if I can get direction to one to buy, I will do it.    I need one that tells in detail how to assemble the trans.  This thing is a Chinese puzzle.  You can contact me at hillsclassic@sbcglobal.net or call me at 281-541-6851.  If you loan or rent me one I will get it back to you.

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  • Technical Advisory Committee

Yes.  I have it and will get it to you tomorrow.  I will give you a call.  These things are NOT easy to assemble depending on how far apart it is.  There are a few special tools that are required also.

 

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https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gddUsK8DxhVhiPQSivSl5MXgPc3DIQAB/view?usp=sharing

 

Let me know if that works for you.

 

Good thing, Cost is $free

Bad thing, its hard to read.

 

Its got the 240, 260, and 260/5(e28) trans in it.  The TOC for the E30 trans is pages 3/4.  Then you will have to scroll down to page 57 for the start of the 260 information.  Be careful to not get things mixed up between the 3 transmissions.  The photos look similar, but if you try to follow directions you will be very confused.

 

Ping me on here when you see this, and I will give you a ring so we can talk for a few.

 

RE: Parts.

 

I have not found an affordable source for new parts.  Last time I looked, 3rd-5th syncro sets would have been $700.  Bearings can be found, but I have not had any bearing failures so far.  Only case failures, shift forks bending, and syncros wearing.

 

My current practice is to buy up all the affordable 260's I can, and mix/match them into workable units.  I also got lucky and Hans Pflaumer from Winsome Motorsports and @Doc each gifted me a 260 with some ailment. I was able to use those parts to make repairs to transmissions that I grenaded the bell housing on.  Also, when your clutch doesnt work, it wears out the syncros faster if you keep racing...

 

So, that said, if your transmission is too far apart for you to figure out the chinese puzzle, let me know and we can work out a deal.

 

 

 

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26 minutes ago, red0 said:

Since these transmissions are ~$300 for a working used unit, what is the advantage to spending more than that on new synchros etc. ?

There is none.  It’s also a massive PITA to rebuild them.  That’s why places like drivegear used to get $3k plus.

 

Also, I never pay more than $250, and normally aim for $200

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9 minutes ago, Huggy said:

There is none.  It’s also a massive PITA to rebuild them.  That’s why places like drivegear used to get $3k plus.

 

Also, I never pay more than $250, and normally aim for $200

How many races does the typical used box run? How many from one of your "reconditioned" units?

 

Obviously no dog in the fight, just curious.

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55 minutes ago, Team Infiniti said:

How many races does the typical used box run? How many from one of your "reconditioned" units?

 

Obviously no dog in the fight, just curious.

"Depends".  Just like any answer.

 

Used 1 gearbox for all of 15, 16, and VIR-S in 17.  It was fine, but starting to shift difficult into 3 from syncro wear.

 

Went with a new "used" box for the VIR24, but killed its syncros in 1 race due to the clutch.

 

AMP grenaded another from bell housing damage.  Rebuilt this one by replacing the front bell housing, syncros were fine since we stopped once the clutch died.

 

VIRN grenaded another used box on day 1, and I havent rebuilt it yet. Put the AMP one in for day 2, but killed that one again with another clutch failure.

 

Once I tightened the crank bolt properly, we did RA and VIR-s on the same box, which is a used unit from a low mileage I 'vert, but 3rd syncro has been giving me trouble the whole time and will only get worse.  Prolly has 1 more race in it though.

 

So a low mileage good used box can last years, a worn used box none, and if you dont properly torque the harmonic balancer, they die quickly.  

 

My best work rebuilding so far has been finding lightly used Eta boxes and swapping the guts into "I" housings so they fit my car. Those have lasted the longest.  Also note I am supporting my chump car, plus 2 street cars and another HPDE car (Soon to be chumpcar v2)

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  • 2 years later...
On 3/16/2018 at 10:16 AM, Huggy said:

"Depends".  Just like any answer.

 

Used 1 gearbox for all of 15, 16, and VIR-S in 17.  It was fine, but starting to shift difficult into 3 from syncro wear.

 

Went with a new "used" box for the VIR24, but killed its syncros in 1 race due to the clutch.

 

AMP grenaded another from bell housing damage.  Rebuilt this one by replacing the front bell housing, syncros were fine since we stopped once the "clutch died."

 

VIRN grenaded another used box on day 1, and I havent rebuilt it yet. Put the AMP one in for day 2, but killed that one again with another clutch failure.

 

Once I tightened the crank bolt properly, we did RA and VIR-s on the same box, which is a used unit from a low mileage I 'vert, but 3rd syncro has been giving me trouble the whole time and will only get worse.  Prolly has 1 more race in it though.

 

So a low mileage good used box can last years, a worn used box none, and if you dont properly torque the harmonic balancer, they die quickly.  

 

My best work rebuilding so far has been finding lightly used Eta boxes and swapping the guts into "I" housings so they fit my car. Those have lasted the longest.  Also note I am supporting my chump car, plus 2 street cars and another HPDE car (Soon to be chumpcar v2)

 

Digging this back up as we have now lost 2 transmissions due to loss of 4th gear. 

  • 1st was 4th gear shift fork wearleading to synchro damage.
  • 2nd (from pitt this weekend) lost 4th gear again (I believe it's the shift fork again, but TBD)

 

What do you mean re: clutch failure? 

 

for the front crank bolt, did you just have it under-torque? How did you trace the root cause to that part?

 

I'll be doing similar to what you recomended re: buying + rebuilding with a cobble of parts.

 

thanks for info...//mp

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both times I lost fourth it was due to bearing issues allowing it to pop out of gear.  4th is the 1-1 gear that just links the input and out put shafts and doesnt use the countershaft at all.

 

Crank bolt was not torqued at all.  Hand tight only.  Ruined the crankshaft.

 

Walter Motorsports in Gainesville GA is the best answer.  Its a ton of time and effort to rebuild them, His price is very reasonable versus what I know the parts are costing him.

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When you say eta guts into the i housing. Do you mean only the front half or the entire case? 
 

depending on next race, I’m close to calling Walter. I’m probably 2 failures behind you for various reasons. when I doubt, do it once and do it correctly, right... ? Ha. 

On 10/5/2020 at 12:16 PM, Huggy said:

both times I lost fourth it was due to bearing issues allowing it to pop out of gear.  4th is the 1-1 gear that just links the input and out put shafts and doesnt use the countershaft at all.

 

Crank bolt was not torqued at all.  Hand tight only.  Ruined the crankshaft.

 

Walter Motorsports in Gainesville GA is the best answer.  Its a ton of time and effort to rebuild them, His price is very reasonable versus what I know the parts are costing him.

 

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1 hour ago, MichaelPal said:

When you say eta guts into the i housing. Do you mean only the front half or the entire case? 
 

depending on next race, I’m close to calling Walter. I’m probably 2 failures behind you for various reasons. when I doubt, do it once and do it correctly, right... ? Ha. 

 

 

It depends.  Early eta boxes require both ends swapped.  This is harder.  Later eta boxes require only the front housing, or using a 323i TOB.

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