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FWD Axle and brake configuration


Kentite
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We have the ability to switch our splindles from side to side. One major advantage to us is that the spindles we run offset the axle 1/4” rearward and by swapping sides we can move the center line 1/4” forward of center. Stock configuration was centered, but we have “upgraded”. We have always had axle issues and are trying to get them as straight as possible. This helps to solve that. So here are the questions. First, is there and advantage or disadvantage to mounting the caliper on the forward side of the rotor rather than the rear? Also since we are moving the axis point from the top of the strut to the contact point of the tire 1/2” forward from its current location will we gain caster? Currently caster isn’t  adjustable and the factory spec is 0°. Aside from 3 bolts on and off the only changes we will need to make are rerouting the brake cooling ducts and brake lines. So really not much hastle. 

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There will be no gain in caster as it is determined by the upper and lower ball joints (or ball joint equivalent in Mac strut cars). No advantage or disadvantage that I know of from changing caliper position unless you run into bleeding or cooling issues. Sounds like you will change your wheelbase and your KPI.

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 Yes the castor will increase  along with the KPI.   If you have axle issues check the axle plunge, per my book .. Use Mobil one grease or better  and modify the bits to run loose, IE ball through cages etc. 

  I often move the lower ball joint forward on my FWD cars(1in) . Anything to add weight to the rear can go faster.

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Axles are new from DriveShaft shop. I think most of our issues were due to over heating the outer joint. We’re in the process of adding cooling via tunnels in the front splitter. I’m just trying to get all of the static angle out of the axle and have it start as close to straight as possible.

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Our rotor is over 1”. I’m thinking of adding a full backing plate to deflect heat from the CV boot. Although our new splitter tunnels expand from 5” to 10” wide and from 0° to 10° pitch over 28” so they should throw some serious air into the wheel well that if nothing else should cool things down. Now we need to control that air and get it out efficiently.

Edited by Kentite
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28 minutes ago, Kentite said:

Our rotor is over 1”. I’m thinking of adding a full backing plate to deflect heat from the CV boot. Although our new splitter tunnels expand from 5” to 10” wide and from 0° to 10° pitch over 28” so they should throw some serious air into the wheel well that if nothing else should cool things down. Now we need to control that air and get it out efficiently.

Pics of said splitter tunnels right meow...

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The abridged version is that they basically act as a diffuser for any air that makes it under the air dam and funnel it to the wheel well. It is then vented which is why LMP cars had louvered fenders and the raised center section of the splitter. They can multiply the downforce of the splitter.   The long version is in a doctoral thesis Will from GWR sent me. We are adding vents to the top of the fender. Pulling the lower corners out and have our side skirts already set up to funnel air away from the wheel well

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10211803800232029&set=p.10211803800232029&type=3

Edited by Kentite
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