Kentite Posted April 4, 2018 Report Share Posted April 4, 2018 We have the ability to switch our splindles from side to side. One major advantage to us is that the spindles we run offset the axle 1/4” rearward and by swapping sides we can move the center line 1/4” forward of center. Stock configuration was centered, but we have “upgraded”. We have always had axle issues and are trying to get them as straight as possible. This helps to solve that. So here are the questions. First, is there and advantage or disadvantage to mounting the caliper on the forward side of the rotor rather than the rear? Also since we are moving the axis point from the top of the strut to the contact point of the tire 1/2” forward from its current location will we gain caster? Currently caster isn’t adjustable and the factory spec is 0°. Aside from 3 bolts on and off the only changes we will need to make are rerouting the brake cooling ducts and brake lines. So really not much hastle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eman911 Posted April 4, 2018 Report Share Posted April 4, 2018 There will be no gain in caster as it is determined by the upper and lower ball joints (or ball joint equivalent in Mac strut cars). No advantage or disadvantage that I know of from changing caliper position unless you run into bleeding or cooling issues. Sounds like you will change your wheelbase and your KPI. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogren-Engineering Posted April 4, 2018 Report Share Posted April 4, 2018 Yes the castor will increase along with the KPI. If you have axle issues check the axle plunge, per my book .. Use Mobil one grease or better and modify the bits to run loose, IE ball through cages etc. I often move the lower ball joint forward on my FWD cars(1in) . Anything to add weight to the rear can go faster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kentite Posted April 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2018 Axles are new from DriveShaft shop. I think most of our issues were due to over heating the outer joint. We’re in the process of adding cooling via tunnels in the front splitter. I’m just trying to get all of the static angle out of the axle and have it start as close to straight as possible. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Magic Posted April 4, 2018 Report Share Posted April 4, 2018 Keep in mind alot of the heat going into the outer joint is from the rotor. Size your rotor and cooling appropriately (ie much bigger). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kentite Posted April 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2018 (edited) We have significant brake cooling. We feed it to the center of the rotor to help cool the bearing and pull air from in to out Edited April 4, 2018 by Kentite 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Magic Posted April 4, 2018 Report Share Posted April 4, 2018 Nice looking rotor with good cooling vanes. The neon used to burn the boots off, even with cooling. Fins were maybe 3/8 wide (whole rotor was maybe 3/4 or slightly more wide) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kentite Posted April 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2018 (edited) Our rotor is over 1”. I’m thinking of adding a full backing plate to deflect heat from the CV boot. Although our new splitter tunnels expand from 5” to 10” wide and from 0° to 10° pitch over 28” so they should throw some serious air into the wheel well that if nothing else should cool things down. Now we need to control that air and get it out efficiently. Edited April 4, 2018 by Kentite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron_e Posted April 4, 2018 Report Share Posted April 4, 2018 A heat shield over the CV boot instead of a backing plate on the rotor might be easier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvumtnbkr Posted April 4, 2018 Report Share Posted April 4, 2018 28 minutes ago, Kentite said: Our rotor is over 1”. I’m thinking of adding a full backing plate to deflect heat from the CV boot. Although our new splitter tunnels expand from 5” to 10” wide and from 0° to 10° pitch over 28” so they should throw some serious air into the wheel well that if nothing else should cool things down. Now we need to control that air and get it out efficiently. Pics of said splitter tunnels right meow... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kentite Posted April 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2018 (edited) They will be trimmed for height after the splitter is cut to fit them.(there is another pic of them roughed in earlier in this thread) Edited April 4, 2018 by Kentite 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvumtnbkr Posted April 5, 2018 Report Share Posted April 5, 2018 Whats the theory on how those work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kentite Posted April 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2018 (edited) The abridged version is that they basically act as a diffuser for any air that makes it under the air dam and funnel it to the wheel well. It is then vented which is why LMP cars had louvered fenders and the raised center section of the splitter. They can multiply the downforce of the splitter. The long version is in a doctoral thesis Will from GWR sent me. We are adding vents to the top of the fender. Pulling the lower corners out and have our side skirts already set up to funnel air away from the wheel well https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10211803800232029&set=p.10211803800232029&type=3 Edited April 5, 2018 by Kentite 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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