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Bill Strong

What happened to your ChampCar today? 2018 Version

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Edit: I want to give a shout out to RVA Graphics for using a quality vinyl to make their stickers. Removed easily with no glue residue or paint removal.

 

Once I gave up on saving the paint, it has become much easier to remove the stickers. The big gray patch on the hood is where a sicker used to be. Haven't had the heart to remove the numbers yet. I will when I have too....

 

Going with a satin black for the main color. Will add contrasting color when I get a second color scheme figured out.  Finally time to get out the DA and start sanding

20180803_160935.jpg

Edited by SpeedMaverick

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34 minutes ago, SpeedMaverick said:

Edit: I want to give a shout out to RVA Graphics for using a quality vinyl to make their stickers. Removed easily with no glue residue or paint removal.

 

Once I gave up on saving the paint, it has become much easier to remove the stickers. The big gray patch on the hood is where a sicker used to be. Haven't had the heart to remove the numbers yet. I will when I have too....

 

Going with a satin black for the main color. Will add contrasting color when I get a second color scheme figured out.  Finally time to get out the DA and start sanding

20180803_160935.jpg

 You do not have to remove the number panels just apply the champ champcar sticker over the chump . Oh that's right you want a particular number , hope is that not like a boat bad luck to change the name on one ..

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2 minutes ago, Ray Franck said:

 You do not have to remove the number panels just apply the champ champcar sticker over the chump . Oh that's right you want a particular number , hope is that not like a boat bad luck to change the name on one ..

 

LOL...   I can't make myself paint over a sticker. Nope, just can't do it.....

 

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16 minutes ago, SpeedMaverick said:

 

LOL...   I can't make myself paint over a sticker. Nope, just can't do it.....

 

 Naw brother I mean tape around and continue to use those panels and apply the small champ over tha chump 

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1 hour ago, Ray Franck said:

 Naw brother I mean tape around and continue to use those panels and apply the small champ over tha chump 

  :)  I'm a budget racer too. I get it.

The drivers I am attempting to bring in though, might not think very highly of me if I take that kind of shortcut. I have a list of pretty successful business owners to market to. They are the types that I can charge $1k or more an hour to drive at places like Daytona and Charlotte. By the time I'm done selling this to them they will ask me why I don't charge more. One of these guys told me he paid $1200 for a bouncy ball at Disneyland just because he can.  I have to get some photo's so I can do my marketing.  My job is to provide them with their automotive Disneyland experience. When we give them their fully taped and photographed Disney experience, I don't need the drivers door or any other part of the car to look like amateur hour.

 

Besides, if I used that method very much I would be carrying around extra weight I don't need. See previous posts about being anal. I owned a graphics company for 12 years and have to live up to my own standards of quality. I got a good enough deal on the car that I can put extra effort ($) into it's appearance. I'm actually glad the paint peeled so I have an excuse to remove X lbs of paint and have a smooth surface to paint over. The only real improvements the car needs is to go on a diet. The satin black will hide most of the  "Waves" in the sheet metal. I can't just be good, I have to look good doing it. :)

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Anybody had any issues with removing stickers off of race cars that are vinyl wrapped? That is, any damage to the vinyl wrap when removing the sponsor stickers?


 

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1 minute ago, rod rammage said:

Anybody had any issues with removing stickers off of race cars that are vinyl wrapped? That is, any damage to the vinyl wrap when removing the sponsor stickers?


 

Depends if it is laminated finish and the quality of the sticker. If it is laminated, that will protect the ink. Cheap stickers leave behind glue that when cleaning could damage the Lami. If you have no lamination then damage is likely impossible to avoid. Use some heat to soften the sticker and glue bond. The RAV stickers are good quality and will minimize chance for damage. Here's a tip. WAX the surface before you install the stickers and it will help with removal later. That's good for about a year

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Thanks. Good idea to put clear  protection on first or to wax first. Forgot about the solvent issue... definitely couldn't use solvents to clean up any remaining glue residue.Cheers!

 

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I use MAF cleaner to carefully clean marks from track marbles and such off stickers without smearing the ink. Also works on tire donuts on number panels.

 

Spray it on a rag and test it carefully first.

Edited by mender

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Stickers unless on OEM paint will most likely take some paint off with them Especially cheapo sponsor stickers. All of the stickers going on the new car will either get the "blue jeans" treatment or go on a panel and be taped on the car for easy removal. Thinking about a thing magnet roll with the border taped in colored masking tape. That way we can remove the "Champ" stuff when we race other events.

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What happened today? It starts with Thursday, car has been in the air since Daytona, need to get it on the road to hash out for Sebring.

 

Thursday ,finish up repacking hubs, put calipers/rotors back on. Friday button up most of the new brake ductwork only to be greeted with worn out and seeping copper sealing washers (re-positioned brake hoses several times around ducts)  Friday @ quitting time, with a car show in mind, time to bleed brakes, strip a bleeder,  go to store buy and successfully install a helicoil, drive it home from work late, miss car show.

 

This Saturday morning, take shark to meet friend for breakfast, full belly, I pull out and not make it a block before the law is behind me flashing lights... Fortunately the young officer sees my paperwork and attitude are in order and gets more into car racing stories/top speed rather then issuing speeding citations ;)

 

Pic when I get time to jump through hoops to post.

Edited by Team Infiniti
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Bedded in 2 sets of rotors and pads today. 

 

Tomorrow - nut n bolt everything, goal is to have car ready to load tomorrow evening. 

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Last week we rebuilt the electric seat slider, mounted/balanced new set of tires, new brake pads in front, changed fluids in engine and trans, and swapped to my spare set of harnesses since there was some slight fraying on the lap belts from rubbing the seat mount.  Today I started on replacement of the coolsuit pump.  Small plastic had wrapped the impeller and broke it.  I have a new one, will finish install tomorrow.  I wired in a pulse width modulator for the back up coolsuit pump, that way I'll have one pump full speed and the back up adjustable.  My backup pump is a little weak compared to the factory coolsuit pump, so I ordered another one off Amazon that has similar head/flow specs as the Coolshirt brand.  I just hate to have to pay $100 for a pump, so I am going to try this $60 pump when it gets here. I tried the bilge pump route, just doesn't have enough flow/pressure in my opinion. 

 

I built a bracket for my main fuel pump and the back up.  What I had was kind of hokey, needed to be mounted better plus now I have a spare ready to go in the event of a failure like we had at Daytona.  If the main pump fails, just have to swap hoses and one wire.  Other than the small items left, we are ready to race week after next with the other series, but have to finish it up this weekend since I'll be driving to VIR to drive the 24 with another team next weekend.

Edited by Burningham
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Went and looked at a 53 foot enclosed today... had to beg the guy not to sell it to me.  So much room in that thing!  thankfully I left without it, but its only 10 miles down the road from me, so tempted.
 

Went back to the shop, finished up small odds and ends on the Mazda, washed her and loaded our measly 24 foot trailer..   Just need to load the last bits in the front and find a spare transmission just in case.  Can't wait for VIR!

IMG_20180804_181939.jpg

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I miss these:

 image.png

But I don't miss whacking my head on the AC duct when pushing the car in up top. :)

 

We had Carl Edwards' old practice/test trailer, had lots of slots for shocks, springs and bars.

 

 

 

 

Edited by mender
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Today Saturday, 8/4/2018  leaving breakfast where I may have been over the speed limit

IMG_1913.JPG

 

 

Apparently not the first time, this was 1/23/2016 leaving auction where I may have pulled away quickly but believe the car was was already profiled while parked.

 

IMG_0508.JPG.f26c971112c8385b68fd0cbdf99a86cf.JPG

 

No tickets issued.

Edited by Team Infiniti
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Moved our light bar, used to have to remove light bar to raise hood. Not anymore. Also put on a new hood with a bunch of weight cut out of it781CC1CA-E5C2-48EE-A464-DE82AB4E997E.thumb.jpeg.8f224465bedcb77428bc3bee003eefe2.jpeg

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18 hours ago, pintodave said:

Bedded in 2 sets of rotors and pads today. 

 

Tomorrow - nut n bolt everything, goal is to have car ready to load tomorrow evening. 

god luck get us some in-car action

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14 hours ago, mender said:

But I don't miss whacking my head on the AC duct when pushing the car in up top. :)

 

That's what I like to call "first world problems" :lol:

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On 8/2/2018 at 5:26 PM, enginerd said:

3/4 of the numbers below have been used this year, the other 1/4 were cars which ran last year but haven't yet raced this year.

 

Car Number
0
1
1
1
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3
6
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8
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520
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523
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528
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531
531
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541
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582
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911
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917
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927
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941
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966
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971
971
977
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981
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I have not run a race in a while because we were building our new car, which burned, so I asked Mike about an extension on our car number since I had to start over again...  so please consider #84 taken...     it should be used sometime the year atleast...  if I ever get the damn wiring harness....

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6 hours ago, TiredBirds said:

god luck get us some in-car action

 

Thanks! Probably no in-car this go around, still up in the air about which direction to go and we are about out of time...

 

The "final" nut n bolt didn't happen today, but did a bunch of other piddly maintenance, like try to 'force lube' the non-serviceable hubs (which sort of works?), finish light bar wiring (almost - Rigid distributor screwed up and sent me the wrong light...), safety wired a couple manifold bolts that keep coming loose, got spares a little more organized and loaded...

 

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Wrapped up a splitter and rear wing install (lead by my partner in race crime - Dave) just in time for a track day Tues.  It looks great, hope it works!

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Removed a bunch of blue paint today. Scrapes right off with a razor blade paint scraper. The primer underneath seems to not want to peel like the current color. Saves a lot of sandpaper and dust. The paint looked flat and shiny. Whoever sprayed it knew how to lay down paint, It just doesn't stick. So it's actually going much faster than I thought it would. Finally some better news. Started to unload the totes and split the parts between the 2 cars. Doing research on how to get a decent shifter for the Prelude. The aftermarket doesn't list the Prelude. Going to pull one out of the 3rd car (4th gen Civic) and see if the bushings and lever will interchange. If it will it's time to order parts. If not, then I have to look at grafting the Civic shifter body to the Prelude shift rods. No way am I living with what I have.

 

It seems the gate is about 3" wide for each gear. I can't expect a rental driver to get in and shift it when I can't. Good way to blow up a motor or get some unwanted help from behind.. And it has to slow the car down a bunch. Takes forever to find the gear. The CRX is a quick shift short throw and precise. Never miss a gear and hardly need the clutch. The throw on the CRX is shorter than the gate is wide on the Prelude. The entire shift pattern in the CRX is smaller than the Prelude shifter play while in gear. Have I made my point about how bad it is yet....   lol   At Mid-Ohio the car was about 4-5 seconds off the pace. I would not be surprised if at least half of that was the shifter.

 

Still working on well pump. (Thank goodness for my motor home with a water tank and a shower) When the connected shop was added to the house, they poured the concrete floor around the well and built the shop over it. It's a deep well so I get to figure out how to get out what could be 100+ feet of 1" pipe with up to 20' lengths out of the casing with only 9' to the ceiling. And without dropping it down the hole. Going to have to cut it as I go. I plan to replace it with PEX so if it ever has to be changed again I won't have the same problem. For kicks I called to get a price and it was $6-8K because it's inside. I'll keep the $5-7k for the labor myself. The humidity has been in the 90's this week so It's been slow going. It never bothered me this much until 8-9 winters of breathing dry air half the year. Then I figured out a few huffs off of the Oxy tank on my torches every 1/2 hour or so while i'm working and accept for the sweating I feel fine again.

 

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