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Splitter stay designs


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Ok, so we havent had as much luck as we would like with the stays/straps/bar/cables whatever you want to call them that hold up the front of our splitter.   We have cables and turnbuckles and ubolts. We have worn off the bolts from underneath when we ran it a bit low which lead to failure.  We have had the turnbuckle threads strip (they were alum)...  I am curious as to what guys are running that are simple and reliable.  We havent run hard rods in the fear of breaking things if brushing a tall curb and not allowing the splitter to flex up.

 

Ideas/Tought?

 

Thanks!

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I drilled and tapped a piece of .125 plate about 2”x3”. Then I threaded in all thread welded the bottom and ground them flat. These poke up from the bottom of the leading edge of the splitter to attach the front turnbuckle eyelet. We used some pretty heavy turnbuckles from Grainger. They are long and strong. Can’t get photos to upload but there are some pics on our Facebook page.

https://www.facebook.com/60DegreeMotorsports/

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@Jer One thing for sure is making sure you just barely dont rub off the bolt heads, so I want to be able to pull up on the very front edge a hair so I can get it close to the ground as possible under braking.  I like the adjustability.

 

I think steel turnbuckles will solve the thread stripping issue, but I am open to looking at alternative designs as well.

Edited by Alchemy Autosport
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This is how I mounted my splitter, the red brackets bolt to the frame rails where factory shipping tie down hooks were installed. By making it quick release it is easy to pull the splitter off to load the car on the trailer.

 

When I get to building version 3 I will make the splitter mount  much lower, I admit that at this point it is so high that it is pretty much just directing air to the coolers and looking cool. For now it mounts right against the factory belly pan which fits between the radiator and cross member. The car is as low as I can get it, I get rub marks from the front tires on the inner fenders by the strut towers now. To get the splitter down to where it will genuinely be effective I will have to make new mounts that lower the splitter, then being able to remove it for trailering will be even more important.
 

 

 

splitter_v2.thumb.jpg.8739fb080c4b6652acfae637141434e0.jpg

 

586d465e164e0_IMG_20161029_0847410101.thumb.jpg.853eea7f61539fe34537d1766f5d2a73.jpg

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18 minutes ago, mhr650 said:

This is how I mounted my splitter, the red brackets bolt to the frame rails where factory shipping tie down hooks were installed. By making it quick release it is easy to pull the splitter off to load the car on the trailer.

 

That's pretty damn sexy. Just the two pins on the tow hooks and it's off?

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I have threaded rod in four places and a channel at the back that the splitter slides into. The threaded rod has rod couplings that connects to more threaded rod that comes up from the splitter. Mine are consumables, 3/8 plywood and a vertical part made of aluminium making it pretty light. With only four threaded connections, it is pretty easy to change quickly.  

 

Some questions about things that I'm curious about?

How low do you guys run your splitters/air dams?

 

How far back underneath the car and forward from the front of the car does yours go?

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15 hours ago, The Aero Man said:

I have threaded rod in four places and a channel at the back that the splitter slides into. The threaded rod has rod couplings that connects to more threaded rod that comes up from the splitter. Mine are consumables, 3/8 plywood and a vertical part made of aluminium making it pretty light. With only four threaded connections, it is pretty easy to change quickly.  

 

Some questions about things that I'm curious about?

How low do you guys run your splitters/air dams?

 

How far back underneath the car and forward from the front of the car does yours go?

I assume that the length you are speaking about length of the splitter forward of the air dam?  We are about 4.5" and have adjustability for a bit more (but it doesnt fit in the trailer with any more)  We have the vertical height of the splitter so it just barely doesnt scrape the ground.

 

Under the car it goes to the centerline of the front wheels.

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I would recommend making the splitter attached with something solid because it will stop any flapping that happens. I know you have to run a higher ride height, but that will help with the fasteners being ground off from the bottom, and it will make the whole system a bit more sturdy and safe. I would not like to end up like that guy who had a splitter stay get through his gas tank and his race ended.

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@Jer We have some flow viz paint you can use to see if things are generally functioning properly. 

 

At our last test session we realized we needed to move our brake duct inlets.  The paint just kind of stagnated and did not flow through the tube.

 

Its kind of cool when you put the flow viz paint on and go do a lap.  It kinda draws an image of the track in low airflow areas.

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32 minutes ago, wvumtnbkr said:

@Jer We have some flow viz paint you can use to see if things are generally functioning properly. 

 

At our last test session we realized we needed to move our brake duct inlets.  The paint just kind of stagnated and did not flow through the tube.

 

Its kind of cool when you put the flow viz paint on and go do a lap.  It kinda draws an image of the track in low airflow areas.

Did you make your own vis paint?  or did you buy it ready to rock?  I am looking to do the same thing very soon and I have been looking for good viz paint.

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6 minutes ago, Alchemy Autosport said:

Did you make your own vis paint?  or did you buy it ready to rock?  I am looking to do the same thing very soon and I have been looking for good viz paint.

Made it.

 

Buy packets of fluorescent powdered paint and mix with 3 in 1 oil.  We mix it and then suck it up with a syringe.  Use the syringe to apply where you want it.

 

I found out that lexan is not the best because it will leave "witness" marks on it.

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25 minutes ago, wvumtnbkr said:

Made it.

 

Buy packets of fluorescent powdered paint and mix with 3 in 1 oil.  We mix it and then suck it up with a syringe.  Use the syringe to apply where you want it.

 

I found out that lexan is not the best because it will leave "witness" marks on it.

Thanks!!  good to know about the lexan too!

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1 hour ago, wvumtnbkr said:

@Jer We have some flow viz paint you can use to see if things are generally functioning properly. 

 

30 minutes ago, wvumtnbkr said:

Made it.

 

Buy packets of fluorescent powdered paint and mix with 3 in 1 oil.  We mix it and then suck it up with a syringe.  Use the syringe to apply where you want it.

I make my own "flow viz" at every event... there is always oil or sticky fluid leaking from one or more of the drivetrain components.. and by the end of the race the whole rear-underside of the car is coated in it. I figure that the areas of eddy/stagnation are the ones with lots of oil to clean, and the high speed areas have only a thin layer of dusty oil.

Edited by enginerd
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Yes I'll post this on the other thread about splitters

Splitter is on the front-end of the car/truck.  It is a flat extension to the very bottom of the front bumper.  Splitters extend straight out, parallel to the ground, and can be made of wood, plastic, or sheet aluminum/steel but not out of carbon fiber. They can extend reward and may wrap around the fenders to the front axles. The materials and hardware used to attach splitters is included in the 10 point fixed point value. 

The question is just how far they can extend upward for the fixed point value?

Would 6” in additional height above the parallel extension be fair for the fixed value?    

Should there be a limit on how far they can extend forward?

Would 6” extension beyond the front bumper be fair for the fixed value?

Should they be allowed to include any and all materials added to the front for air dams, radiator ducting and aerodynamics if they take the 10 points for a splitter? 

 If a car comes to tech and has materials added to the front of the car without a splitter they are charged at the following rate: 

plywood: 1 pt per sq. ft.

sheet aluminum/steel: 2 pts per sq. ft.

sheet plastic/polycarbonate: 3 pts per sq. ft.

In some of the pictures shown the entire front of the car has been covered and there should be additional points over and above the 10 for the splitter…

Yep it’s a gray area and some want it well defined in black and white while others like gray.  That’s what the forum is for everyone’s opinion.

Help me out and lets here you opinions

Phil McKinney

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I don't think that any real limitations should be put on the splitters/air dams. I do think that they should only extend to the centerline of the front axle, but that is it. If somebody wants to go make a ridiculous splitter with little winglets hanging off of it, I don't care. We are going too slow for it to really matter, the most important thing I think is the ride height. 

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  • Technical Advisory Committee
1 hour ago, Mopar 63 said:

Yes I'll post this on the other thread about splitters

Splitter is on the front-end of the car/truck.  It is a flat extension to the very bottom of the front bumper.  Splitters extend straight out, parallel to the ground, and can be made of wood, plastic, or sheet aluminum/steel but not out of carbon fiber. They can extend reward and may wrap around the fenders to the front axles. The materials and hardware used to attach splitters is included in the 10 point fixed point value. 

The question is just how far they can extend upward for the fixed point value?

Would 6” in additional height above the parallel extension be fair for the fixed value?    

Should there be a limit on how far they can extend forward?

Would 6” extension beyond the front bumper be fair for the fixed value?

Should they be allowed to include any and all materials added to the front for air dams, radiator ducting and aerodynamics if they take the 10 points for a splitter? 

 If a car comes to tech and has materials added to the front of the car without a splitter they are charged at the following rate: 

plywood: 1 pt per sq. ft.

sheet aluminum/steel: 2 pts per sq. ft.

sheet plastic/polycarbonate: 3 pts per sq. ft.

In some of the pictures shown the entire front of the car has been covered and there should be additional points over and above the 10 for the splitter…

Yep it’s a gray area and some want it well defined in black and white while others like gray.  That’s what the forum is for everyone’s opinion.

Help me out and lets here you opinions

Phil McKinney

   Please go over to the radiator ducting and air dam thread to see my proposed aero rules . To long for me to type over here I'm goin ta bed got to work some tomorrow .  HAPPY 4TH Y'all

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