wvumtnbkr Posted October 9, 2018 Report Share Posted October 9, 2018 (edited) So, I am still having issues with killing my brakes due to heat. Here are some facts about similar cars.... Both of these cars are as fast if not faster into the braking zones on the same track on the same day as us. 1) Team Sahleens runs the same brakes same size rotors - they just won a race on a track that we smoked our brakes... 2) A team that swapped an LS1 into their RX7 is using a totally stock braking system with Hawk Blues... No brake problems.... We will destroy a set of Carbotech XP24 in about 20 hours. We have also tried The St43 that everybody says last forever. They last "okay" about the same as the XP 24. However, they feel like crap and provide NO braking force. The brake pedal also feels a bit long. We bleed the brakes every day of every race (need to because the fluid turns black with a quickness). I am thinking about going to a larger diameter master cylinder to improve feel. I am also going to 1/4" wider rotor (still a stock type rotor, just from a different car) with my stock 4 piston calipers. I have brake pressure gauges in the car. I can see that the brakes do not have any residual pressure. We have the mazda motorsports brake ducting kit. I believe our ducting is VERY good. I tried the temperature paint and temperature stickers.... Too much brake dust to tell what color the paint and stickers are. Also, it appears that we are above the top temp range that the indicators show.... So, If I wanted to go to a totally non -stock master cylinder / non - stock prop valve, How would I do it? My current system has 3 ports for the brakes. 2 for the front and 1 for the rear. How do you plumb in an aftermarket system that only has 2 ports? Thanks for any info you can provide! Edited October 9, 2018 by wvumtnbkr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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