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Points what to get


TiredBirds

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Soooooo after re-reading the new rules one our engineers figured we are at 265. This was a 480 point car 2 years ago... In any event, What would you all spend the points on?  We already have, headers, cam, oil pan, front and rear areo, Alum rad. All the other stuff is points free now. Since we are transferring everything to the new shell this would be a good time to make some changes. The car is a 305, 5 speed 88 Formula firebird. We do race the other $500 league so it'd be nice if we could make the swap back easy, intake and carb bring us to 365

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1 hour ago, TiredBirds said:

Soooooo after re-reading the new rules one our engineers figured we are at 265. This was a 480 point car 2 years ago... In any event, What would you all spend the points on?  We already have, headers, cam, oil pan, front and rear areo, Alum rad. All the other stuff is points free now. Since we are transferring everything to the new shell this would be a good time to make some changes. The car is a 305, 5 speed 88 Formula firebird. We do race the other $500 league so it'd be nice if we could make the swap back easy, intake and carb bring us to 365

How do you come up with 265 when the car starts at 200?

Headers = 25, cam = 50, front aero = 10-20, rear aero = 10-20, alum rad = 5, 10, or 30....

????

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11 hours ago, mcoppola said:

How do you come up with 265 when the car starts at 200?

Headers = 25, cam = 50, front aero = 10-20, rear aero = 10-20, alum rad = 5, 10, or 30....

????

I didn't do the math. lets see.. car is 200+25 for 5 speed, 25 for pan, 20 for aero, 50 for cam,.not sure what the rad is now... perhaps he meant 365? Those engineers.. 

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8 minutes ago, TiredBirds said:

Might be right this car was a 305 5 speed, our last T/A was an Auto we converted. So I have 200 VPI, cam 50, headers 25, Oil pan 25, Pulley 5, Rad 10, aero 20. That's 315.  

^^^335 - >

It's ok, We know math is tough for some folks once you get past how many fingers and toes you have....

😂 sorry, couldn't resist.....

Edited by mcoppola
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2 minutes ago, TiredBirds said:

Dam missed the Aero... still leaves some points to use up. 

Lower and stiffen the car via spring height adjusters, coliovers, and/or stiffer springs of some type, should be 40 points max, maybe less if you find springs in the Moog catalog that match your ID/OD with a stiffer rate, and you cut them down. (I can help you with the research on that if you need help.)

You'll still have room for carb/intake, or better yet, EFI to help with fuel mileage.

Then fender flares, rad ducting and more aero, as Rob said.

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33 minutes ago, mcoppola said:

Lower and stiffen the car via spring height adjusters, coliovers, and/or stiffer springs of some type, should be 40 points max, maybe less if you find springs in the Moog catalog that match your ID/OD with a stiffer rate, and you cut them down. (I can help you with the research on that if you need help.)

You'll still have room for carb/intake, or better yet, EFI to help with fuel mileage.

Then fender flares, rad ducting and more aero, as Rob said.

We have stiffer springs and have lowered the car. We have Moog (cut) all the way around and they were deamed "stock" no points. EFI is way too expensive. The factory TPI runs out of steam at 5k. We might go to a Holley race 2bbl. Our Rad ducting was carbboard. We did cut and bend some duct work but never installed it. We don't have any cooling issues. We are already running 17x9.5 "vette" rims with 275/40/17's no need to cut the fenders or flare them. 

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Sounds pretty awesome so far, good job on the spring replacements & cutting; and cooling system.

How are your brakes? Although a lot can be done there too without points...

Get your induction (for hp and mileage) set up, and possibly some aero, and it sounds like this build will give a Mustang (and the bimmers) a run for their money.

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8 minutes ago, mcoppola said:

Sounds pretty awesome so far, good job on the spring replacements & cutting; and cooling system.

How are your brakes? Although a lot can be done there too without points...

Get your induction (for hp and mileage) set up, and possibly some aero, and it sounds like this build will give a Mustang (and the bimmers) a run for their money.

we are using a BigBrakeUpgrade kit. C6 up front, car is 4 wheel disc. The 84 was pretty fast. This car should be a little faster as we know more about it. Time is killing us. Here is the 84 at another league event. (NJMP) The car got folded up the next year at the sam event... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GpZHzZYXhJQ

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4 hours ago, wvumtnbkr said:

Why the 25 for 5 speed?  A t5 was offered behind the 305.

Well, it can’t just be ANY T5. Has to be a T5 specifically offered in the firebird. There are tons of “T5” transmissions out there with different components and gear ratios and such. 

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1 hour ago, TiredBirds said:

Our Rad ducting was carbboard. We did cut and bend some duct work but never installed it. We don't have any cooling issues. 

Just FYI...

We are taking a couple of points for materials to box our OEM radiator. I was told, very clearly, by both Ray and Jay in Tech at Sebring that boxing or ducting to the radiator when it is in the "stock location" is ZERO points. @Ray Franck told me if we moved the radiator or tried to reposition it there would be points, but not if it was in the stock location. 

S. 

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2 minutes ago, Snorman said:

Just FYI...

We are taking a couple of points for materials to box our OEM radiator. I was told, very clearly, by both Ray and Jay in Tech at Sebring that boxing or ducting to the radiator when it is in the "stock location" is ZERO points. @Ray Franck told me if we moved the radiator or tried to reposition it there would be points, but not if it was in the stock location. 

S. 

 

That doesn't make sense. Why can't you change your rad position? If you are not adding material, it should be 0 points. Even if you use re-purposed material, moving your rad should be 0 points. 

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1 minute ago, red0 said:

 

That doesn't make sense. Why can't you change your rad position? If you are not adding material, it should be 0 points. Even if you use re-purposed material, moving your rad should be 0 points. 

He said there would be points for ducting if the radiator was moved or repositioned. 

I'm just stating what I was told. I didn't ask, they volunteered the info when I was going through the material points we claimed. 

S. 

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1 minute ago, Snorman said:

He said there would be points for ducting if the radiator was moved or repositioned. 

I'm just stating what I was told. I didn't ask, they volunteered the info when I was going through the material points we claimed. 

S. 

 

Oh, OK 0 points for moving the rad. For the ducting you would be adding material, thus points. 

 

 

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I didn't get into repositioning the radiator, but was told that ducting in front of the radiator was free but any ducting behind the radiator would be points. I assume that cutting your hood and bending it down would still be free. 

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