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atxe30

Driver Kill Switches

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So the initial plan for the driver kill switch was to use one of the buttons on the motec keypad(big red button). there will also be an external switch with the external fire system pull. the design has a 300amp relay in the mix that emits a very loud click when the switch is toggled so you know when its engaged/disengaged. this is not a new design and has been used by the guy doing my wiring for cars in other series, so i'm confident its not out of left field.

 

my concern: the rules state "racing-type master kill switch" so what does that actually mean? i need official Champcar guidance on this topic as we have a short window to do something different if necessary. what's best path to get that guidance?

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Send your question to :

 

 

Jay Mauney (National Tech Director for ChampCar Endurance Series)

Email: jay.mauney@champcar.org or tech@champcar.org

 

Rich Sainato (Board of Director for ChampCar Endurance Series)

Email: rich.sainato@champcar.org

 

E. Tyler Pedersen (Board of Director for ChampCar Endurance Series

Email: tyler.pedersen@champcar.org

 

Andrew Johnson 

Email: andrew.johnson@trutest.com

 

Rodger Coan

Email: rodgerhome@yahoo.com

 

Matthew Cawood

Email: matt.cawood6@gmail.com

 

Ben Schaut

Email: ben.schaut@schautspeed.com

 

Evan Horner

Email: hornerevan@gmail.com

 

Drew Nabb

Email: drewnabb@yahoo.com

 

Mike Coppola

Email: mjc59393@gmail.com

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On 3/5/2019 at 7:20 PM, atxe30 said:

my concern: the rules state "racing-type master kill switch" so what does that actually mean? i need official Champcar guidance on this topic as we have a short window to do something different if necessary. what's best path to get that guidance?

This one IMHO is the best option.

https://www.discoveryparts.com/racecar-battery-disconnect-switches-/2641-sparco-battery-disconnect-6-terminal-kill-switch-sparco-01337.html

 

If you already have one installed and need to know if it's acceptable, you'll have to wait.  My team has not had good luck with quick responses from tech.  

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I think more professional race cars uses somekind of solid state or relay that cut outs the battery using a remote switch. Is this something that you have @atx30?

I think it's safer if it sits close to the battery, that way you don't need  thick "always live" cable that goes to the kill switch.

 

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2 minutes ago, turbogrill said:

I think more professional race cars uses somekind of solid state or relay that cut outs the battery using a remote switch.

Out of the entire Rd Atl field, I personally checked about 1/4 of the kill switches, the only one that did not work at all was a remotely switched system.

 

Just saying, keep it simple!

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6 minutes ago, turbogrill said:

I think more professional race cars uses somekind of solid state or relay that cut outs the battery using a remote switch. Is this something that you have @atx30?

I think it's safer if it sits close to the battery, that way you don't need  thick "always live" cable that goes to the kill switch.

 

Yes that is the approach for the switch at the driver. the external will be the standard one as @zack_280 mentioned. 

 

I sent Jay an email. I'd really like a definitive answer. I'm still a little gun-shy after the fuel line conduit thing. That cost me a sizable chunk of time.

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21 minutes ago, Team Infiniti said:

Out of the entire Rd Atl field, I personally checked about 1/4 of the kill switches, the only one that did not work at all was a remotely switched system.

 

Just saying, keep it simple!

 

Haha...that must have felt. A $300 dollar Kill Switch that does absolutely nothing.

 

 

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15 minutes ago, turbogrill said:

 

Haha...that must have felt. A $300 dollar Kill Switch that does absolutely nothing.

 

 

Was not impressed with the little toggle but did actually believe something would happen... No actual clue what system was behind the scenes
Me:  rev your engine

Car in question : Varoom

Me: tiny click of the switch pointed at

Car in question : Varoom

Me: let it idle

Car in question : Sits there idling with switch off

Me:   Thanks, you can turn it off now. Be right back....

 

Edited by Team Infiniti

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26 minutes ago, Team Infiniti said:

Was not impressed with the little toggle but did actually believe something would happen... No actual clue what system was behind the scenes
Me:  rev your engine

Car in question : Varoom

Me: tiny click of the switch pointed at

Car in question : Varoom

Me: let it idle

Car in question : Sits there idling with switch off

Me:   Thanks, you can turn it off now. Be right back....

 

 

one would think you would test that poop before showing up to a race.

 

edit.....prefer s*** epithet substitute :)

Edited by atxe30

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2 hours ago, zack_280 said:

This one IMHO is the best option.

https://www.discoveryparts.com/racecar-battery-disconnect-switches-/2641-sparco-battery-disconnect-6-terminal-kill-switch-sparco-01337.html

 

If you already have one installed and need to know if it's acceptable, you'll have to wait.  My team has not had good luck with quick responses from tech.  

Just rewire it to this kind as the master switch and follow the install to the letter. When I first started I would go though alt all the time . Found the VW/Audi alt do not like to be shut off so this kind uses a ground and resister I have never had a alt fail again !!

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On 3/5/2019 at 6:20 PM, atxe30 said:

So the initial plan for the driver kill switch was to use one of the buttons on the motec keypad(big red button). there will also be an external switch with the external fire system pull. the design has a 300amp relay in the mix that emits a very loud click when the switch is toggled so you know when its engaged/disengaged. this is not a new design and has been used by the guy doing my wiring for cars in other series, so i'm confident its not out of left field.

 

my concern: the rules state "racing-type master kill switch" so what does that actually mean? i need official Champcar guidance on this topic as we have a short window to do something different if necessary. what's best path to get that guidance?

 

Or you could just install the basic one, cost like $50 for the switch, $20 for the extra wire. Everyone knows how to fix it if it breaks, with a fancy kill switch you are dependent on a your wiring guy.

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