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Our tow setup is a Chevy bus/RV thing on a year 2005 3500 dually frame ( @red0 is this correct?).

 

We have bent our heavy duty tow hitch frame to the point where the ball hitch thing almost drags on level ground. Clearly we have too much tongue weight from the 28’ trailer (will have to balance the load better on future trips).

 

Now we need a new hitch assembly, are there any super heavy duty brands that you recommend? Pointers for the next one?

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It's a 2001 Chevrolet express 3500 dually. 

I would think this Curt Class V  would work:

https://www.amazon.com/CURT-15320-Class-Trailer-Hitch/dp/B00A8XHG2Y/ref=sr_1_1?gclid=CjwKCAiA58fvBRAzEiwAQW-hzVgCsk9dpBZRurycus6AehKfsKWiKxYDTqHG7mCTqrgZUhNaZ3pZaxoCa90QAvD_BwE&hvadid=177572951889&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9021433&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=11004249212650465878&hvtargid=kwd-61352790280&hydadcr=7023_9585492&keywords=curt+15320&qid=1576174727&sr=8-1

MAXIMUM STRENGTH. This class 5 hitch is engineered with a large, powerful main body to be a dependable extension of your truck. It is rated for 16,000 lbs. gross trailer weight, 2,400 lbs. tongue weight, 17,000 lbs. weight distribution capacity and 2,400 lbs. weight distribution tongue weight (limited to lowest-rated towing component).

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I would go up on the spring rate on the trailer  did it on mine from 7000 to 9500 . Just look for the biggest hitch you can find reinforce the RV and may add some air bags to it  did this to my 2500 truck so I could tow our 25 ft box trailer. I have that kind of hitch on my truck and my 37 ft RV just keep a eye on the mounting to frame for bending if you can build a race car I think you can reinforce the frame.

Edited by DRVOLKS
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Also to clarify. We don't need to change rear spring, or add airbags, or reinforce the frame or anything as the truck is solid. 

The hitch just bends like a wet noodle. You can watch as weight is applied to it and see the horizontal round tubing flex. 

 

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6 minutes ago, IPF Racing said:

Wow that is surprising for sure. Might be time for something custom and potentially higher up directly between the frame rails. 

 

I think I am just going to try the heaviest duty hitch i can get, which appears to be the class V XD type?

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  • 2 months later...

We installed the curt class 5 hitch this weekend (pictured above). That hitch is BEEFY! Far stronger than the one it is replacing. 6 bolt mounting holes instead of 4, larger tube, thicker flanges. Very happy with this hitch. Tongue weight of our trailer is ~2000 lbs just by judging the force to lift it with the racing style jack compared to known cars. 

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I think if you would add 150 pounds to the rear of your car (up high in the trunk is a good spot) in the trailer it would cantilever some of that weight off of the hitch. Weld it in good and solid so it doesn’t move around. Problem solved. 

Edited by Burningham
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Yep.  We broke the stock hitch off a 2500hd by overloading it.  11k total in a 24’ dual axle trailer.  
 

went back with the curt you bought.   Checked the nose weight on the trailer at 2500 lbs.  stock hitch was rated for 750 normal or 1500 weight distributed.  
 

did some prompt rearranging in the trailer, and we back the car in now.  
 

tires go across the back too.  Couldn’t find a pic with the tires in though.  Just some 6x2 across the width, tires ratchet06926846-8ADD-4D1A-A38D-8F601F0D9907.jpeg.fa450c4697c33feb3964036b26327b67.jpeg strapped to them 

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5 hours ago, Slugworks Paul said:

I also have the CURT Class V, great hitch!

Andrew, you should get an electric tongue jack! Best thing I ever added to my trailer.

Its true, nothing makes me feel richer than having an electric tongue jack.

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7 hours ago, Slugworks Paul said:

I also have the CURT Class V, great hitch!

Andrew, you should get an electric tongue jack! Best thing I ever added to my trailer.

We don’t use the bus for anything but towing the car trailer. Indy was the first time in over a year that we unhooked it to use the bus for transportation.

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17 hours ago, enginerd said:

We don’t use the bus for anything but towing the car trailer. Indy was the first time in over a year that we unhooked it to use the bus for transportation.


Even using it once a year - so worth it. And I'm pretty sure you're not correct, i've seen andrew unhitch the race bus at races many times.

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On 3/3/2020 at 9:38 AM, Slugworks Paul said:

Andrew, you should get an electric tongue jack! Best thing I ever added to my trailer.

 

Yes. 

The war wagon power inverter caught on fire last week, and I have a 2,000 watt generator that may replace it and the battery. I could move the battery to the trailer. What is the best way to take 12V going to the trailer and trickle charge the onboard battery? I could run the lighting, the winch and the tongue jack from the battery. 

The manual tongue jack was destroyed at COTA a few years ago, so I need one anyway. 

2 hours ago, Slugworks Paul said:


Even using it once a year - so worth it. And I'm pretty sure you're not correct, i've seen andrew unhitch the race bus at races many times.

 

Yes, it happens a few times a year. 

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8 minutes ago, red0 said:

 

Yes. 

The war wagon power inverter caught on fire last week, and I have a 2,000 watt generator that may replace it and the battery. I could move the battery to the trailer. What is the best way to take 12V going to the trailer and trickle charge the onboard battery? I could run the lighting, the winch and the tongue jack from the battery. 


That's exactly how my trailer is set up. Mine had a little tiny battery on board which ran the lights but it was beyond toast when I bought the trailer. I just added a spare car battery.

A standard 7 pin trailer connector has a 12V aux wire that you could use to charge the battery, you just will have to locate the wire or maybe get a new trailer harness.
image.png.64c6ca455ce2ea270719ace1a62522f9.png

This is the jack I have - it's been rock solid for 3 years now and is plenty powerful to lift my 28' steel trailer fully loaded with car.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B9HOQVC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edited by Slugworks Paul
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9 minutes ago, Slugworks Paul said:


That's exactly how my trailer is set up. Mine had a little tiny battery on board which ran the lights but it was beyond toast when I bought the trailer. I just added a spare car battery.

A standard 7 pin trailer connector has a 12V aux wire that you could use to charge the battery, you just will have to locate the wire or maybe get a new trailer harness.
image.png.64c6ca455ce2ea270719ace1a62522f9.png

This is the jack I have - it's been rock solid for 3 years now and is plenty powerful to lift my 28' steel trailer fully loaded with car.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B9HOQVC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I was just concerned that if the trailer battery was low (say 11.5V), when you connect the trailer to the bus there could be a large amp draw that could damage a wire or other component without something to limit the current. IDK........

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9 minutes ago, red0 said:

 

I was just concerned that if the trailer battery was low (say 11.5V), when you connect the trailer to the bus there could be a large amp draw that could damage a wire or other component without something to limit the current. IDK........


Not sure.. The wires on my trailer are pretty substantial, but I haven't really completely killed the battery yet. You could add an inline breaker that's appropriately sized to prevent that.

Edited by Slugworks Paul
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34 minutes ago, Slugworks Paul said:

Not sure.. The wires on my trailer are pretty substantial, but I haven't really completely killed the battery yet. You could add an inline breaker that's appropriately sized to prevent that.


Good Idea on the breaker, that would protect the wire and other components. 

 

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