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Best Mount / Camera Combo For Streaming


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Hi all, 

 

I did an impromptu live stream at Sebring and now my team is really into it. My problem though but our quality is pretty below average. Currently I'm using a Ram mount and cellphone x mount but the vibration is insane. I like using the stream labs app to get it to youtube but I can switch. I was streaming at 720/30 and had great results connection wise. 

I don't mind switching to a different camera / mount, just want the best quality. Does anyone know of a good cellphone mount for this? Would a smaller camera / mount be a better option? I'm open to just about all suggestions. 

Thanks. 

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It looks like that was secured to the windshield via a suction cup mount.  Although Ram Mount is a great company, suction cup mounts really suck when it comes to motorsports.  The suction cup is secured to the windshield, but the plastic portion that attaches to the suction cup just vibrates.

 

You'll want to secure the camera to the roll bar.  Anytime you add distance from the roll bar to the camera, you're going to get more vibration.  Only some testing will really tell you now far is too far.

 

In this video, you'll see a phone mount on the front roll bar that I use to run Harry's Lap Timer.  It has a 3" (I think) arm between the roll bar mount and the phone.  I think they make 6" ones too.
 

 

Edited by CoachMK21
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/15/2020 at 2:48 PM, E. Tyler Pedersen said:

How are you running power to it to ensure power lasts the distance of the race?

 

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On 2/8/2020 at 10:58 AM, LostAussie said:

How are you running power to it to ensure power lasts the distance of the race?

 

When we installed Tyler's I put a two port USB charger on the roll cage, similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Charger-CHGeek-Waterproof-Voltmeter-Motorcycle/dp/B07F84VVB4.  One port for the camera and the other for the mobile hotspot.  I would suggest wiring it to a thermal reset circuit breaker so the driver can't accidentally turn it off.  The volt meter on the charger gives you a visual check when setting up the camera that power is being provided to the USB for troubleshooting.

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On 2/8/2020 at 10:58 AM, LostAussie said:

How are you running power to it to ensure power lasts the distance of the race?

 

 

I used to do what @bbaker480 stated, but in the last race at Sebring, I powered the camera with an portable charger.  It was a 10000mAh one and it still had a charge after 9 hours.  I secured it to the roll cage with lots of zip ties and gaffers tape.

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1 minute ago, CoachMK21 said:

 

I used to do what @bbaker480 stated, but in the last race at Sebring, I powered the camera with an portable charger.  It was a 10000mAh one and it still had a charge after 9 hours.  I secured it to the roll cage with lots of zip ties and gaffers tape.

I believe the power bank setup is what Bill uses to make the portable units he sticks in other cars.  I like that you won't run into an issue with cycling the ignition turning off cameras or anything wonky like that, but it's one more item to keep charged and put in the car in the morning.  You can go either way, we just prefer to hard wire.

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8 hours ago, bbaker480 said:

I believe the power bank setup is what Bill uses to make the portable units he sticks in other cars.  I like that you won't run into an issue with cycling the ignition turning off cameras or anything wonky like that, but it's one more item to keep charged and put in the car in the morning.  You can go either way, we just prefer to hard wire.

My 10000mah battery pack is charged by the car, and feeds a battery eliminator wire into the GoPro.
It’s the best of both words: 10+ hours of video even if the charging circuit fails, AND no need to recharge the battery because it is constantly charged while the car is on. 

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1 hour ago, enginerd said:

My 10000mah battery pack is charged by the car, and feeds a battery eliminator wire into the GoPro.
It’s the best of both words: 10+ hours of video even if the charging circuit fails, AND no need to recharge the battery because it is constantly charged while the car is on. 

Which battery pack do you use for that.  Most don't support simultaneous charging and discharging

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24 minutes ago, Huggy said:

Which battery pack do you use for that.  Most don't support simultaneous charging and discharging

Interesting, this is what I use and it seems to do both although I don’t see that listed as a feature. @Doc recommended it. Ran 22 hours through Indy weekend without an overnight recharge, pretty sure it was still full on charge at the end. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00935L44E#Ask

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15 hours ago, enginerd said:

Interesting, this is what I use and it seems to do both although I don’t see that listed as a feature. @Doc recommended it. Ran 22 hours through Indy weekend without an overnight recharge, pretty sure it was still full on charge at the end. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00935L44E#Ask

 

I stole it and used it this weekend at Road Atlanta. I also used it to charge my phone at the airport. It still shows a full charge. It is apparently also snow/water/fog resistant. 

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4 minutes ago, bbaker480 said:

I hadn't thought about a pass through charging pack because I couldn't find one that worked reliably. Part of me wants to wire one into my street cars just so I can keep charging when I run inside for coffee or something. 

 

At the NCM Nat Champ,  one of our teammates had their Saab stolen at Walmart because they left it running and unlocked to charge their phone while they ran inside to get something. 

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7 hours ago, red0 said:

 

At the NCM Nat Champ,  one of our teammates had their Saab stolen at Walmart because they left it running and unlocked to charge their phone while they ran inside to get something. 

I would be pretty sad if my Saab disappeared actually. Quirky, but it's grown on me. 

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16 hours ago, bbaker480 said:

I would be pretty sad if my Saab disappeared actually. Quirky, but it's grown on me. 

 

You better keep an eye on it, no Saab is safe in Pittsburgh. 

We ended up turning the stolen DD into a racecar after we got it back, and it won  the Grocery Getter Classic. 

It didn't look so good after the race.........


image.png.c548bf9c9bcd3e621b471c295b268519.png

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  • 1 year later...

I see a couple of references to RAM mounts, but no specifics on what model.  Anyone care to share what they have used?  Hopefully products that worked well.

 

Looking on their site I see a few options, that would likely work on a 1-1/2" roll cage bar, but unsure if any are better than others for vibration and not needing to get fussed over.  I'd like to get it aimed in the shop and then never touch it again.

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I have this roll bar mount for a 1" ball.  I have a variety of arms, 3", 6" and a flexible one. with a 1" ball for the GoPro mount (like this one).  I also have the same set up for an old phone running Harry's LapTimer with this phone holder.  The holder works fine for the phone displaying data, but it's not steady enough to use it for video.

 

I agree the website is difficult to find roll bar stuff, but Amazon has everything and usually easier to find if you search around.

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We have a pair of these mounts that we use for a GoPro (high-res recording) and a cheap YiCam (live streaming). These mounts are extremely sturdy.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XGFV5CG/

 

As others have mentioned, vibrations become exaggerated and thus visible the further a camera is mounted from the roll bar mount. You can also add some foam to the inside of the roll bar mount itself to help dampen harmonic vibrations. The weight of the camera also plays a big factor. Ideally, you want as light of a camera mounted as close to the roll bar as possible to yield the most stable video possible. If you connect the YiCam (and even a GoPro) to a dedicated power source you can also cut a bunch of weight by running without the battery. This does pose some challenges should you cut power to the cameras, though. 

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50 minutes ago, freshmaker_phd said:

We have a pair of these mounts that we use for a GoPro (high-res recording) and a cheap YiCam (live streaming). These mounts are extremely sturdy.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XGFV5CG/

 

As others have mentioned, vibrations become exaggerated and thus visible the further a camera is mounted from the roll bar mount. You can also add some foam to the inside of the roll bar mount itself to help dampen harmonic vibrations. The weight of the camera also plays a big factor. Ideally, you want as light of a camera mounted as close to the roll bar as possible to yield the most stable video possible. If you connect the YiCam (and even a GoPro) to a dedicated power source you can also cut a bunch of weight by running without the battery. This does pose some challenges should you cut power to the cameras, though. 

 

That mount looks great, and cheap too.  I may have to grab a couple.

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On 7/9/2021 at 3:38 PM, freshmaker_phd said:

We have a pair of these mounts that we use for a GoPro (high-res recording) and a cheap YiCam (live streaming). These mounts are extremely sturdy.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XGFV5CG/

 

As others have mentioned, vibrations become exaggerated and thus visible the further a camera is mounted from the roll bar mount. You can also add some foam to the inside of the roll bar mount itself to help dampen harmonic vibrations. The weight of the camera also plays a big factor. Ideally, you want as light of a camera mounted as close to the roll bar as possible to yield the most stable video possible. If you connect the YiCam (and even a GoPro) to a dedicated power source you can also cut a bunch of weight by running without the battery. This does pose some challenges should you cut power to the cameras, though. 

Thanks for this.  Helps a lot.

 

Now, did you look on the link posted at the section of "customers who viewed this item, also viewed....."?  There are whole other worlds out there. 

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