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Brake flaring tool


Gkuhn41
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Anyone have a good recommendation for flaring tool that isn’t junk. Ive tried the wing nut ones and broken two and the third wont flare steel for crap. They all work fine on the soft Nickel Stuff not steel, it takes 3 tries to make it work it seems on steel

 

Suggestions welcome thanks. 

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I had similar experiences with the low cost stuff. I spent money on this Eastwood kit.  I have only used it for DIN bubble and 45 doubles on a 3/16” line. It makes consistent, quality flares ends. I lubricate with anti-seize when flaring. 10/10 would buy again. 

 

https://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html?SRCCODE=PLA00010&gclid=Cj0KCQiA9orxBRD0ARIsAK9JDxQdQcIvOsqHhn571XwhHkdER3RHLOXRMoMAH6LGl4HoMiRJ83kWphwaAoOoEALw_wcB

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15 hours ago, TimS said:

Replace double flare with AN 37 degree flare.

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AN\JIC single flare have their own unique issues. On our cars i would go that route if you had something in the system that required 37 deg flare (caliper or braided softline that is 37). Otherwise double flare is cheaper, you can use it on softer brake line (easier to hand bend to your car), often seals better (the final flaring is done as you tighten the fitting down and smash the two layers together) and are usually cheaper.

 

With the right tools to bend and form it, stainless single flare on a strong grade of tubing is the way to go. Most of us can't afford the tooling to make it, and double flare helps cheaper methods work well.

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5 hours ago, Indysupra said:

I changed the new build over to 37 Deg With the above tool. The key with these and thick stainless for brake line is to properly deburr after a cut. It will split the ends if you don’t. 

This is absolutely the key.  Use a good tubing cutter to get a nice straight cut.  Then I like to use a file to make sure there is no ridge and finally use a good deburing tool. This technique will help with any flare.  The double or bubble flare does take some experience to get right and requires you to get two flares done properly each time.  The AN style fitting can be reused without any issues too

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On 1/18/2020 at 10:40 AM, MichaelPal said:

I had similar experiences with the low cost stuff. I spent money on this Eastwood kit.  I have only used it for DIN bubble and 45 doubles on a 3/16” line. It makes consistent, quality flares ends. I lubricate with anti-seize when flaring. 10/10 would buy again. 

 

https://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html?SRCCODE=PLA00010&gclid=Cj0KCQiA9orxBRD0ARIsAK9JDxQdQcIvOsqHhn571XwhHkdER3RHLOXRMoMAH6LGl4HoMiRJ83kWphwaAoOoEALw_wcB

 

This one is the one I would get. It's been recommended by some build shows as the best. Glad to hear another recommendation here. The video's makes it look so fast and easy, Has to save $$ in the long run. I have seen one a lot like this on ebay for a better price but have no idea how good it is in real life. I have had trouble with the AN stuff  A brand new Busch car I built didn't leak in the shop or testing but did in the race at a track that used a lot of brakes. Then we broke the retainer nut trying to get it to stop leaking. Resulted in a DNF because we didn't have parts to build a new line at the track.

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