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Lethal Cliff

Let's see those Race car Dash Boards!

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Im still changing this area of the car, but if you're looking for well priced reliable switches these seem to be working great. They are a Whelan switch box out of a cop car that are high amp rated (25amps) so I only have like 2 relays in the whole car. 

cJ3WpreJZrsftXKoNfHj2JJGDsSh2e9JysxBtv39_WoG5NTjXY6sU2hZI_z_6C3oyrA1N2Zw4aZoJSaeThr1AN8TKThbrSogJPifWu4nw2YDNtVS-VjzKOn1gg3QYO1ELgQ04x4Qy0XfXR0db2uXQ6mvkOYeOVDceqYfiNhJZ_6GPQ9zGAMr5s64ZRm2pnimjiinYbXbAkGTSEoQi3W-oyNbu7oXoI1_niNUeNwMgz1hffGwE-G1Ls1eKFa3QUnTFMuNzks9sCYsg4I4lQp1RlejOHMyLW1_xylx0lkmAA6Sa-yc2hKbm5RvB7XpFD5A4zBwJbhvquyFfo4zstS2LXl67liRob0PJU6m59cZpJdcueOoSI9BNmMklrIHlXdXpAbxD2W1scbVvVrv13OUXMls3cX5QYAQTImgINGhsoyLxDQjYJfHNxoNuGoq33W6TNJBso2mJgbdYvMrak_QCeGspA9FUc7IOGFXTsDVco9KlYL4CB_zED4vtVs9phj-bL2zMbOqxBt-oFMB6af00ffqaP-OE888XiNmKNBQD4tTQPaQxwiqlU18LRi49oyF6NSMPuOs06IgYXvicS6k93OUEYwcGTNYlLdNnwkIXMDjiq6naCCmJXicSjNgc0_WSK-IJWjvEBrKPfYjJ5FhvWvkmW3k7nmWqGeINj5jJ1f4fpRbFEhpSng=w1204-h903-no

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20 minutes ago, IPF Racing said:

Im still changing this area of the car, but if you're looking for well priced reliable switches these seem to be working great. They are a Whelan switch box out of a cop car that are high amp rated (25amps) so I only have like 2 relays in the whole car. 

cJ3WpreJZrsftXKoNfHj2JJGDsSh2e9JysxBtv39_WoG5NTjXY6sU2hZI_z_6C3oyrA1N2Zw4aZoJSaeThr1AN8TKThbrSogJPifWu4nw2YDNtVS-VjzKOn1gg3QYO1ELgQ04x4Qy0XfXR0db2uXQ6mvkOYeOVDceqYfiNhJZ_6GPQ9zGAMr5s64ZRm2pnimjiinYbXbAkGTSEoQi3W-oyNbu7oXoI1_niNUeNwMgz1hffGwE-G1Ls1eKFa3QUnTFMuNzks9sCYsg4I4lQp1RlejOHMyLW1_xylx0lkmAA6Sa-yc2hKbm5RvB7XpFD5A4zBwJbhvquyFfo4zstS2LXl67liRob0PJU6m59cZpJdcueOoSI9BNmMklrIHlXdXpAbxD2W1scbVvVrv13OUXMls3cX5QYAQTImgINGhsoyLxDQjYJfHNxoNuGoq33W6TNJBso2mJgbdYvMrak_QCeGspA9FUc7IOGFXTsDVco9KlYL4CB_zED4vtVs9phj-bL2zMbOqxBt-oFMB6af00ffqaP-OE888XiNmKNBQD4tTQPaQxwiqlU18LRi49oyF6NSMPuOs06IgYXvicS6k93OUEYwcGTNYlLdNnwkIXMDjiq6naCCmJXicSjNgc0_WSK-IJWjvEBrKPfYjJ5FhvWvkmW3k7nmWqGeINj5jJ1f4fpRbFEhpSng=w1204-h903-no

 

 

Do your lights turn on ever time you shift into 5th? :)

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5 minutes ago, LuckyKid said:

 

 

Do your lights turn on ever time you shift into 5th? :)

 

Haha thats why I said I was still working on it. Otherwise you turn the car off everytime you shift into 5th

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7 minutes ago, LuckyKid said:

Adding a second tablet (pit communication) and a "GO FASSTTTAR" switch.

20200221_073034.jpg

 

Wondering why the two kill switches next to each other...

 

 

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33 minutes ago, IPF Racing said:

if you're looking for well priced reliable switches these seem to be working great. They are a Whelan switch box out of a cop car that are high amp rated (25amps) so I only have like 2 relays in the whole car. 

We too use a old cop car switches, excellent quality and pretty cheap on ebay, I opened ours up and found one circuit was stronger with a internal relay, all are fused on the backside of the box.

 

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31 minutes ago, CBraden said:

 

Wondering why the two kill switches next to each other...

 

 

Redundant.  We don't want a $30 switch costing us a $8,000+ weekend.  If one fails, we just move the key over to the second one.  We also have two independent light circuits.  If one circuit goes down we are still legal.

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1 hour ago, TimS said:

These are not cheap but almost universally used by NASCAR group. 

https://www.modernracing.net/product/honeywell-2nt1-3-on-off-toggle-switch-dpdt/

 

1 hour ago, MichaelPal said:

I will buy most of my electrics from https://www.delcity.net/ I use the heavy duty toggle switches => https://www.delcity.net/store/Heavy!Duty-Toggles/p_788974

 

I still go back and forth on using spade connectors vs. screw on terminals...

 

Are you guys run anything more than signal level power to a relay through these types of switches (or the cop car ones above)? We didn't trust them enough to run them without relays, as a result, I think we have 9 relays now... which seems like a lot of points of failure (and lots of extra wiring), but seemed more reliable than running much current draw through a switch.

 

Is this approach too conservative? What is the general rule for when to use a switch alone vs switch + relay on a circuit?

 

 

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1 minute ago, CBraden said:

 

 

Are you guys run anything more than signal level power to a relay through these types of switches (or the cop car ones above)? We didn't trust them enough to run them without relays, as a result, I think we have 9 relays now... which seems like a lot of points of failure (and lots of extra wiring), but seemed more reliable than running much current draw through a switch.

 

Is this approach too conservative? What is the general rule for when to use a switch alone vs switch + relay on a circuit?

 

 

 

I run 3 fuel pumps off the cop setup (1 per switch) without relays so thats 10amp draw each. I actually replaced one switch with a momentary and run that straight to the starter solenoid without a relay... 

 

I used to have cheap switches to relays which never failed but the cop setup is just simpler. 

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12 minutes ago, CBraden said:

 

 

Are you guys run anything more than signal level power to a relay through these types of switches (or the cop car ones above)? We didn't trust them enough to run them without relays, as a result, I think we have 9 relays now... which seems like a lot of points of failure (and lots of extra wiring), but seemed more reliable than running much current draw through a switch.

 

Is this approach too conservative? What is the general rule for when to use a switch alone vs switch + relay on a circuit?

 

 

 

I run my ignition coil power on through one of them. The others are for cool suit (low amps) and rad fan (on a relay). I'll snap a pic of the dash later tonight.

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0.5 A to 20 A at 0.5 Vdc to 28 Vdc|0.75 A at 115 Vdc|0.5 A at 250 Vdc|0.5 A to 15 A at 0.5 Vac to 277 Vac

 

this is the specs for these switches. Relay for all loads is probably unnecessary. I usually only use relays for high loads like headlights, cooling fan, fuel pumps, etc. the rest are usually fused and run through the switch directly. Makes things simpler and easier to troubleshoot. 

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5 hours ago, CBraden said:

 

 

Are you guys run anything more than signal level power to a relay through these types of switches (or the cop car ones above)? We didn't trust them enough to run them without relays, as a result, I think we have 9 relays now... which seems like a lot of points of failure (and lots of extra wiring), but seemed more reliable than running much current draw through a switch.

 

Is this approach too conservative? What is the general rule for when to use a switch alone vs switch + relay on a circuit?

 

 

Not in my opinion, I do the same thing.

Even the starter momentary runs through a relay.

I also keep spare relays around.

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I finally took a picture, sorry it's blurry.

Dash.thumb.JPG.59e2c097e4ad21b3d276710829b92b6d.JPG

WT: Water Temp

OT: Oil Temp, shows Cold if it's less that 40C

OP: Oil Pressure.

VB: Voltage at battery

AF: Air/Fuel

Graph: Fuel level with a number overlaid with liters remaining. Only accurate when parked.

There's a 1w red LED to the left of the display that comes on when I detect an error condition.

The dash knows the RPM so the oil pressure trigger is less than 5psi/1K RPM and over 1500 RPM

If the battery voltage is under 12.5V, or the water over 115C,  the light goes on.

The value blinks on the dash when the light is on to let you know which one is causing the light.

Under all the switches are the circuit breakers for everything, no fuses.

All the way at the bottom is a knob to control the PWM for the cool shirt.

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9 hours ago, MichaelPal said:

The blue light is brakes (same circuit as the actual brake lights, meant to be picked up by the gopro).

152_Dash.JPG

 

Can't you have brake connected to the RCP and save it to podium?

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On 2/23/2020 at 9:29 PM, erich said:

I finally took a picture, sorry it's blurry.

Dash.thumb.JPG.59e2c097e4ad21b3d276710829b92b6d.JPG

WT: Water Temp

OT: Oil Temp, shows Cold if it's less that 40C

OP: Oil Pressure.

VB: Voltage at battery

AF: Air/Fuel

Graph: Fuel level with a number overlaid with liters remaining. Only accurate when parked.

There's a 1w red LED to the left of the display that comes on when I detect an error condition.

The dash knows the RPM so the oil pressure trigger is less than 5psi/1K RPM and over 1500 RPM

If the battery voltage is under 12.5V, or the water over 115C,  the light goes on.

The value blinks on the dash when the light is on to let you know which one is causing the light.

Under all the switches are the circuit breakers for everything, no fuses.

All the way at the bottom is a knob to control the PWM for the cool shirt.

 

What kind of circuit breakers are you using?

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35 minutes ago, turbogrill said:

Can't you have brake connected to the RCP and save it to podium?

 

I beleive so. The panel is still legacy before installing RCP. Right now I’ve just about got RCP to be a dash and I finally trust the sensor calibrations. I got plans man...plans! This is all new to me (scripting + Pi) so I’m just taking it slow. 

Edited by MichaelPal

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3 hours ago, turbogrill said:

 

What kind of circuit breakers are you using?

The square ones are TE Connectivity brand W28 series , I got them from my local electronics place.

They're all 32VDC rated and a bunch of different amp ratings.

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On 2/25/2020 at 4:08 PM, MichaelPal said:

 

I beleive so. The panel is still legacy before installing RCP. Right now I’ve just about got RCP to be a dash and I finally trust the sensor calibrations. I got plans man...plans! This is all new to me (scripting + Pi) so I’m just taking it slow. 

 

Hahaha, I spend a lot of time in front the keyboard creating amazing RCP related plans. I should just shut off the computer and go into the garage and repair the broken control arms....

 

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