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Anyone have experience with dry-break fittings?


mindspin311
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With the FWD Mini, the radiator has to move out of the way to access a lot of things. Rather than open the cooling system every time, it would be nice to run dry-break connectors. The ID of the coolant hoses are roughly 32mm. Has anyone messed with something this big before? Lots of searching online is very industrial related, tough figure out where to start.

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35 minutes ago, mindspin311 said:

With the FWD Mini, the radiator has to move out of the way to access a lot of things. Rather than open the cooling system every time, it would be nice to run dry-break connectors. The ID of the coolant hoses are roughly 32mm. Has anyone messed with something this big before? Lots of searching online is very industrial related, tough figure out where to start.

 

Proper dry breaks are not cheap, and unless you have room to size them much larger than the tube size, can be a big impedement to flow. 

 

Pegasus carries the brand Staubli that I have seen used on brakes. The biggest they have is -16, 1 inch, can flow 18 gpm and would cost well over $400 to get both ends. 

 

Can you just use Nascar quick disconnects for water fill to vent the system pressure and drain it? Then use regular hose or convert to -20 fittings and hose to make removal quicker? 

 

Will cost several hundred either way to do this in a manner that won't have the risk of race ending leaks.....

 

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43 minutes ago, Black Magic said:

 

Proper dry breaks are not cheap, and unless you have room to size them much larger than the tube size, can be a big impedement to flow. 

 

Pegasus carries the brand Staubli that I have seen used on brakes. The biggest they have is -16, 1 inch, can flow 18 gpm and would cost well over $400 to get both ends. 

 

Can you just use Nascar quick disconnects for water fill to vent the system pressure and drain it? Then use regular hose or convert to -20 fittings and hose to make removal quicker? 

 

Will cost several hundred either way to do this in a manner that won't have the risk of race ending leaks.....

 

I did find these Staubli fittings, not sure if we can actually afford them. But they appear to do a barbed hose end in the diameter we need.

 

https://www.staubli.com/en-us/connectors/quick-couplings/fluids-and-gases/full-flow-gpl/

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3 minutes ago, mindspin311 said:

I did find these Staubli fittings, not sure if we can actually afford them. But they appear to do a barbed hose end in the diameter we need.

 

https://www.staubli.com/en-us/connectors/quick-couplings/fluids-and-gases/full-flow-gpl/

 

Make sure they can handle 240 F (max engine temp) with quick overruns to 300 (cooked motor from driver not watching gauges).

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How far out of the way does it have to move?  My Passat is the same in that the radiator, fans, and shroud are too close to the engine to do anything besides swap the AC belt.  VW designed it with extra length in the radiator, AC, and intercooler hoses.  You pull off the bumper cover, bumper itself, and a bolt from each fender and then the whole core support slides out ~8 inches and then you can get in there and work on stuff.  Here's what one looks like with the core support pulled forward.  Might be possible to rig up something like that and it would be cheaper and simpler than dry-break stuff.

image.png.77eff8f4aae2115bbd39eb13063db783.png

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As @karman1970, the Mini does have a service position like the other Germans, although I don't think we've ever used it on the racecar. Once the AC is deleted you can basically take the bumper cover off, head lights out, then the crash bar and just swing the whole core support with radiator to the side 45 degrees or so with the hoses still connected. I can't remember if there's wiring that has to be disconnected too.. 

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47 minutes ago, Wittenauer Racing said:

As @karman1970, the Mini does have a service position like the other Germans, although I don't think we've ever used it on the racecar. Once the AC is deleted you can basically take the bumper cover off, head lights out, then the crash bar and just swing the whole core support with radiator to the side 45 degrees or so with the hoses still connected. I can't remember if there's wiring that has to be disconnected too.. 

Ambient temp sensor and possibly the power feed to the radiator fan.

 

Would just be nice to get the whole darn thing out of the way.

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Maybe a couple plugs/caps that can be quickly installed after hose(s) are removed.  Keeps majority of system full and reduces waste of water wetters and such.  Not as simple as the quick release dry break.

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4 hours ago, TimS said:

7 minute engine change is damn quick.  RX7 I raced for many years could be done in 20 minutes.  This was after years of practice 

7 minutes 38 seconds rings a bell. If anyone made radiator quick disconnects I figured it would be Junior. 

 

I was hoping someone would remember if he had.

 

Maybe a person can use some E46 stuff and make their own.

https://www.mishimoto.com/engineering/2015/09/e46-3-series-silicone-radiator-hose-rd/

Add a big ball valve or two in the right places and Bob's your uncle as long as you don't mind a little spillage.

Edited by mender
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