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Fuel filling overflow hose to minimize spillage


ETR
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At our recent race at Harris Hill, I spotted a team that had a hose coming from the filler region and down to the spill pan.  We were in the heat of battle so I didn't get a closer look, and I forgot later on to snoop around.  Maybe it's to speed fueling, or maybe it's an indicator of FULL to minimize spillage.

 

Let me put it out there that we are not in the "DUMP THAT CAN AS FAST AS POSSIBLE ARRGGHH!!!" camp, but even when being careful with our hunsakers the filler can burp and send fuel down the side of our miata.  I know funnels are not allowed.  I do suspect that I spotted from afar something that could minimize spillage and the risk of fire, and I'm intrigued.  Was it something attached to the car?  On the fuel can?

 

Anyone care to share?

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I think I saw a team basically attach a “garden hose” with a nipple into the filler overflow, which then laid in the pan.

 

Another system that we actually tried, then deleted, was routing the overflow hose from the tank out the rear (and placing pan in rear) to keep overflow off of hot rear brake area.  We had an issue with a full tank sloshing / leaking through that setup, so deleted it and went back to stock.

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We have overflow and a vent. Overflow comes out as directly as possible to the rear of the car, is connected to a Jiffy Tite connector clear hose and then drains into a home made catch can placed on the ground.

 

Vent is a 3/4” vent with a discriminator valve routed up and Then back to the rear.

 

When filling when the tank is full You will see fuel run out the clear hose on the overflow and when that happens you stop filling and pop off the jiffy tite.

 

Jiffy tite is a sealed connection and when done quickly there is about 1” of fuel in the filler neck left and  you shouldn’t spill any fuel (we have done it correctly 1 time in our driveway) most of the time we still get a burp out the filler neck but much less than we’ve had in the past.

 

I did this after having a conversation with Jay about how the “Proper” setup should look according to our rules. This was not cheap but seems to work well for us. We still cant dump a full hunsaker as fast as possible but we can do it in about 15 -18 seconds.

Edited by Gkuhn41
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18 minutes ago, Gkuhn41 said:

We have overflow and a vent. Overflow comes out as directly as possible to the rear of the car, is connected to a Jiffy Tite connector clear hose and then drains into a home made catch can placed on the ground.

 

Vent is a 3/4” vent with a discriminator valve routed up and Then back to the rear.

 

When filling when the tank is full You will see fuel run out the clear hose on the overflow and when that happens you stop filling and pop off the jiffy tite.

 

Jiffy tite is a sealed connection and when done quickly there is about 1” of fuel in the filler neck left and  you shouldn’t spill any fuel (we have done it correctly 1 time in our driveway) most of the time we still get a burp out the filler neck but much less than we’ve had in the past.

 

I did this after having a conversation with Jay about how the “Proper” setup should look according to our rules. This was not cheap but seems to work well for us. We still cant dump a full hunsaker as fast as possible but we can do it in about 15 -18 seconds.

 

I was going to tag you. I have watched you guys during pit stops and if theres a right way to do it, I'd definitely follow this setup.

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No need to spend real money on vent hose dry-breaks.  Use these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N7NCJ18/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

We have a female on the car, and a male attached to a VP jug cap and hose.  We bring an empty VP jug over the wall with the dry break cap on it, and plug it onto the car.  When done correctly we do not spill a drop.  Less than $50 in the whole system and we can dump a VP jug in ~25 seconds.

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35 minutes ago, whitney said:

No need to spend real money on vent hose dry-breaks.  Use these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N7NCJ18/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

We have a female on the car, and a male attached to a VP jug cap and hose.  We bring an empty VP jug over the wall with the dry break cap on it, and plug it onto the car.  When done correctly we do not spill a drop.  Less than $50 in the whole system and we can dump a VP jug in ~25 seconds.

 

Those would make really good cheap catch can disconnects (on the vent) as well. 

 

Thanks

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3 hours ago, whitney said:

No need to spend real money on vent hose dry-breaks.  Use these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N7NCJ18/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

We have a female on the car, and a male attached to a VP jug cap and hose.  We bring an empty VP jug over the wall with the dry break cap on it, and plug it onto the car.  When done correctly we do not spill a drop.  Less than $50 in the whole system and we can dump a VP jug in ~25 seconds.

 

2 hours ago, Black Magic said:

 

Those would make really good cheap catch can disconnects (on the vent) as well. 

 

Thanks

I'm pretty sure that's what @whitney was describing - using them on the overflow / vent while filling.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Does anyone have any pictures of how they managed to comply with this rule? Or something that passed tech that is similar?

 

9.10.4. Over-flow vents may be installed. Over-flow vents MUST:

3. Be securely attached to a 3/4” outside diameter, tubular, metal bulkhead that extends no less than 4” and no more than 6” inside the car and extends no more less than 4” and no more than 6” outside the rear panel/bulkhead of the car;

 

Are they just saying you need a secure mounting point for the overflow vent?

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  • 3 months later...
On 4/18/2020 at 11:42 AM, Jim said:

Does anyone have any pictures of how they managed to comply with this rule? Or something that passed tech that is similar?

 

9.10.4. Over-flow vents may be installed. Over-flow vents MUST:

3. Be securely attached to a 3/4” outside diameter, tubular, metal bulkhead that extends no less than 4” and no more than 6” inside the car and extends no more less than 4” and no more than 6” outside the rear panel/bulkhead of the car;

 

Are they just saying you need a secure mounting point for the overflow vent?

 

I was curious about this as well.  Any examples or photos of set ups that are considered good by Tech?

 

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On 3/25/2020 at 12:53 PM, ETR said:

At our recent race at Harris Hill, I spotted a team that had a hose coming from the filler region and down to the spill pan.  We were in the heat of battle so I didn't get a closer look, and I forgot later on to snoop around.  Maybe it's to speed fueling, or maybe it's an indicator of FULL to minimize spillage.

 

Let me put it out there that we are not in the "DUMP THAT CAN AS FAST AS POSSIBLE ARRGGHH!!!" camp, but even when being careful with our hunsakers the filler can burp and send fuel down the side of our miata.  I know funnels are not allowed.  I do suspect that I spotted from afar something that could minimize spillage and the risk of fire, and I'm intrigued.  Was it something attached to the car?  On the fuel can?

 

Anyone care to share?

you can cut the opening in the fill tube. That was done so people couldn't put leaded fuel in there cars back in the day. and make sure it is vented properly. 

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3 hours ago, TiredBirds said:

you can cut the opening in the fill tube. That was done so people couldn't put leaded fuel in there cars back in the day. and make sure it is vented properly. 

 

Yeah our filler is completely hogged out and I'm satisfied with how fast we fill.  I was interested in ways to minimize or even eliminate spillage for safety.

 

 

 

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Another Miata here!  We also cut out the little flapper door and use Hunsakers.  We still have the stock overflow hole in the body that connects to a tube that goes thru the truck floor behind the LR tire, where we put our drain pan and it works really well containing spilling.

 

Additionally - we made some noozles for the hunsakers that extend into the filer neck past the tank vent, and have a washer as a hard stop when we slam it in and it has holes in it to allow venting with another washer welded about 1/8" above it to control the splashing and keeping it in the bodywork pocket to be captured and drain thru that hole/tube behind the LR tire.

 

I will take some pics and share them later today.

 

 

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1 hour ago, ETR said:

 

Yeah our filler is completely hogged out and I'm satisfied with how fast we fill.  I was interested in ways to minimize or even eliminate spillage for safety.

 

 

 

My rx7 had a corrugated tube for the filler.  I bought smooth gas filler rated hose $$$$ and the problem disappeared.

 

Also, on Mazda rx7s there is a little flapper valve that will close if there is an impact.  Make sure it hasn't closed.  If it did, you can reset it to be open and that will also help.  

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44 minutes ago, wvumtnbkr said:

 

Also, on Mazda rx7s there is a little flapper valve that will close if there is an impact.  Make sure it hasn't closed.  If it did, you can reset it to be open and that will also help.  

Do you have a picture of this contraption? Sounds interesting. 

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25 minutes ago, Voodoo Child said:

Hmmm.  We were told to replace our metallic tips on our Hunsakers by tech a couple of years ago "because of the potential for spark from static electricity".  We found some PVC reducers that worked.  Are the stock Hunsaker metallic tips allowed again? 

 

Those may look like metal but thats just a vinyl wrap over plastic to make it look like SS...:ph34r:

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Here is my setup that I implemented last year.  It cost me about $450.  Essentially we used a discriminator valve that went goes to our vent.  I also drilled another hole in the fuel cell plate for the overflow.  I then have a jiffy connection that we plug in with a clear hose and it goes into a gas can.  It is pretty simple. The overflow needs to be bigger but the rules state you can only go so big. Let me know if you need more information.

 

 

20200729_215815.jpg

20200729_215826.jpg

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