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turbogrill

Key vs no key

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Hi,

 

Our car has the stock ignition with a key in it. I plan to cleanup the wiring a little but still use most of the OEM harness.

 

Any downsides with having a stock key? We use it to start the car as well.

 

Anyone had any issues?

 

 

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Our NB miata would lose power (engine) after about 30 minutes of track time.  Every sensor you can think of was replaced with no effect.  Finally traced it back to a failing ignition switch.  My new build (in progress) won't have a key, plus it'll save a fraction of a pound...

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All my race cars have a starter switch or button and a separate switch for the ignition/ECU. That allows me to crank the engine over without fear of it starting or needing to pull a fuse or relay when checking things. I also run the fuel pump(s) separately on most  to again allow more freedom rather than depending on the ECU or ignition switch.

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No key.  Had a team mate lose one.  Had an ignition fail.  

 

My last 2 builds have not had a standard ignition.

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1 hour ago, shutupracing said:

 it never leaves the vehicle, ever. Never leaves the ignition tumbler even.

In the past one of our team insisted on removing it, now we do the same as you.

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3 hours ago, mender said:

All my race cars have a starter switch or button and a separate switch for the ignition/ECU. That allows me to crank the engine over without fear of it starting or needing to pull a fuse or relay when checking things. I also run the fuel pump(s) separately on most  to again allow more freedom rather than depending on the ECU or ignition switch.

+1 for ability to crank without starting. Huge benefit. 

+1 for being able to separately turn off the fuel pumps

 

I use the "quickcar" 6 switch + push button switch panel. Served us well for 6 years, but the push button itself wears out. You can buy reasonably priced replacements from Jegs. Switch 1 is ECU, switch 2 puts power to the fuel pump relay, other switches do accessories.

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I use a generic heavy duty push button momentary on switch:

Heavy Duty Push Button Start Switch Race Car IMCA UMP Drag NHRA ...

 

I think mine has tabs on the end but same otherwise. Haven't had one fail, I think these are typically rated at 60 amps.

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8 minutes ago, mender said:

I use a generic heavy duty push button momentary on switch:

Heavy Duty Push Button Start Switch Race Car IMCA UMP Drag NHRA ...

 

I think mine has tabs on the end but same otherwise. Haven't had one fail, I think these are typically rated at 60 amps.

The failure mode is needing to push the button further and further and further to make contact until it no longer reliably makes contact. The cheap buttons wear out pretty quickly chasing no-starts! I am on my 3rd cheapo in 6 years with one in the spares bin.

Edited by enginerd
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Current setup uses oem switch with key.  In the past I have used the push button start switch with rockers for all other devices.  Both worked with out any issue.  My homemade minimalist wiring harness was easier to troubleshoot and repair though

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Some cars have horribly cheap OEM ignition switches bought by the train-car load from the lowest bidder (VW the cheap bastards)  The Japanese switches seem a little more robust, but didn't GM recently make headlines with their switches?

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