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Anyone running an SN95 Mustang


Whip1a5h
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I'm picking up a 96 Mustang GT in about a week from today and I'm just curious if anyone has some pointers for the interior setup so I can maybe draw up a "blueprint" of sorts for where to put the important safety devices while I'm sitting home with nothing else to do 

 

Also planning on drawing up a bunch of other things like homemade caster/camber plates (gotta keep that points system in mind) and some custom sway bars so I can maybe swing a cam job to help the 4.6 out as much as I possibly can or maybe even an improved fuel system (heck maybe even a homemade splitter or air dam and a diffuser just to try and help the aerodynamics of the SN95)

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That would require rewiring the car which I'm not equipped to do nor do I want to do in order to retain fuel injection 

 

 

I'm up to the challenge of making my own stuff to save a little but I'm not able to rewire the car to be a 95 and I'm not really wanting to try and play with a carburator at different altitudes and climates

 

 

I'm being conservative for the time being to just get the car out there and get started then as my team and I improve we will install some proper suspension or some other engine work so we can be more competitive or just more consistent around the tracks 

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9 hours ago, Whip1a5h said:

I'm picking up a 96 Mustang GT in about a week from today and I'm just curious if anyone has some pointers for the interior setup so I can maybe draw up a "blueprint" of sorts for where to put the important safety devices while I'm sitting home with nothing else to do 

 

Also planning on drawing up a bunch of other things like homemade caster/camber plates (gotta keep that points system in mind) and some custom sway bars so I can maybe swing a cam job to help the 4.6 out as much as I possibly can or maybe even an improved fuel system (heck maybe even a homemade splitter or air dam and a diffuser just to try and help the aerodynamics of the SN95)


I may be wrong, and might be good to check with tech, but I think sway bars are 1 fixed value regardless of how it's done.

IMHO - sway bars aren't worth points. Use spring rates to get your cornering where you want it. I think the isolated roll stiffness increase isn't a great bang for the buck in the racing we do.

From a human-factors layout perspective - what i've learned is make as much of the controls within drivers view and reach as you can manage. Don't put anything too low as drivers may not be able to look down very far with HNR attached. We used to have the radio out of reach to the driver but now I have it in reach so they can adjust volume, I also put the cool suit connections within reach of the driver. If you add gauges or displays, keep them all about the same level - around OEM cluster height or a bit higher. Minimize the number of gauges you add as drivers can only watch a few things at a time (realistically I think no more than 3).  Warning lights are a good idea but sensors can go bad and then they have errant warning lights.

I can't recommend enough investing in an AIM MXL2 or the like. All your add-on gauges are now in one place and you have shift lights, programmable warnings, and logging. The most useful diagnostic and data tool i've ever added to my car by leaps and bounds. If you add up all the gauges, lap timer, sensors, wiring, equipment you'd have to add (and replace when they break, which they do) to get anywhere near the functionality of a digital display/data acquisition system, the cost difference isn't even that big.

Edited by Slugworks Paul
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Whatever you do, build to drive it as soon as possible.  I can't believe how many "teams" and people on this forum that spend years building and haven't raced yet.  Pick a race and build to the minimum level to finish the race (not win it, just finish it).  Your first couple races are likely to be train wrecks.  There is just always little things that stack up and wreck a race weekend, its better to do that quickly when things are "simpler" and build up from there. 

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3 hours ago, Whip1a5h said:

That would require rewiring the car which I'm not equipped to do nor do I want to do in order to retain fuel injection 

 

 

I'm up to the challenge of making my own stuff to save a little but I'm not able to rewire the car to be a 95 and I'm not really wanting to try and play with a carburator at different altitudes and climates

 

 

I'm being conservative for the time being to just get the car out there and get started then as my team and I improve we will install some proper suspension or some other engine work so we can be more competitive or just more consistent around the tracks 

 

Megasquirt makes a P&P system for the 94/95's that plugs into factory harness.   If you can get the harness with an engine you're good to go.  The 5.0 will be lighter, more powerful, and less complicated in the long run.    Whatever you do, spend your points on suspension.   Don't waste points on aero unless you start with 250 free. 

Edited by Snake
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1 hour ago, LuckyKid said:

Whatever you do, build to drive it as soon as possible.  I can't believe how many "teams" and people on this forum that spend years building and complaining and trying to change the rules and haven't raced yet. 

FTFY

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1 hour ago, LuckyKid said:

Whatever you do, build to drive it as soon as possible.  I can't believe how many "teams" and people on this forum that spend years building and haven't raced yet.  Pick a race and build to the minimum level to finish the race (not win it, just finish it).  Your first couple races are likely to be train wrecks.  There is just always little things that stack up and wreck a race weekend, its better to do that quickly when things are "simpler" and build up from there. 

 My goal is to just finish all of the events the first year the second year is try for consistent top 10 finishes or better (don't worry about me with trying to change rules I'm just trying to have some fun and get some friends/family on track that never seem to have a car together when the fun stuff is actually happening)

 

I'm planning on having it ready by mid season this year or at least early next season because I have to swap the engine (at a minimum rebuild) because of the high miles, going to rebuild the trans, and figure out the rules for gears because I would prefer to run 3.55's or 3.73's along with new bushings for the suspension

 

 

Also intend to use some autocross to make sure I've got everything back together correctly

Edited by Whip1a5h
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don't bother with a cam, stock horsepower is just fine.  you don't have enough fuel to be adding horsepower anyways.

 

whatever you do, don't put anything but a stock hood on the car.. the pitchforks will be out in full force.

IMG_20191223_172702.jpg

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2 minutes ago, MoparBoyy said:

don't bother with a cam, stock horsepower is just fine.  you don't have enough fuel to be adding horsepower anyways.

 

whatever you do, don't put anything but a stock hood on the car.. the pitchforks will be out in full force.

IMG_20191223_172702.jpg

 

I appreciate the input from everyone and I've got a better idea of what to do with the car (I'll skip the cams to do more suspension for right now) and can I not use a fuel cell? I was hoping to get the stock tank out for a slightly larger capacity 

 

 

I like that hood vent setup (are those 13-14 hood vents?) and how did you do those headlights? 

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1 minute ago, Whip1a5h said:

 

I appreciate the input from everyone and I've got a better idea of what to do with the car (I'll skip the cams to do more suspension for right now) and can I not use a fuel cell? I was hoping to get the stock tank out for a slightly larger capacity 

 

 

I like that hood vent setup (are those 13-14 hood vents?) and how did you do those headlights? 

 

yes you can use a cell.. still only gets you +2,  not enough to run 2hrs on fuel.

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39 minutes ago, Whip1a5h said:

  (don't worry about me with trying to change rules I'm just trying to have some fun and get some friends/family on track that never seem to have a car together when the fun stuff is actually happening)

FYI, wasn't referring to you.

Good luck with the build!

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39 minutes ago, Whip1a5h said:

 

 I was hoping to get the stock tank out for a slightly larger capacity 

 

 

I like that hood vent setup (are those 13-14 hood vents?) and how did you do those headlights? 

 

Yes and yes and gutted 1 piece lights with an LED behind the housing. 

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1 hour ago, Snorman said:

FYI, wasn't referring to you.

Good luck with the build!

 

I understand where you're coming from with the people that want to change rules but haven't even competed yet (had that with some people in drag racing at the local track when I was doing that out of high school)

 

 

40 minutes ago, Snake said:

 

Yes and yes and gutted 1 piece lights with an LED behind the housing. 

 

Perfect... This car I'm getting has a set of one piece lights that I don't really care for so the light project will be on my agenda since that gives me an excuse to fix some jacked up wires

 

 

Edited by Whip1a5h
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18 hours ago, Whip1a5h said:

I'll be working out some strategy with my group then

 

look forward to seeing your E36 build 😛     I kid, we looked a mustang starting out a few years ago, couldn't make the points work well enough.  A newer V6 with a ton of suspension work was our idea, but it was just so much work to catch up to what others cars just come with.

Edited by theblue
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22 hours ago, LuckyKid said:

Whatever you do, build to drive it as soon as possible.  I can't believe how many "teams" and people on this forum that spend years building and haven't raced yet.  Pick a race and build to the minimum level to finish the race (not win it, just finish it).  Your first couple races are likely to be train wrecks.  There is just always little things that stack up and wreck a race weekend, its better to do that quickly when things are "simpler" and build up from there. 

 

This is really good to hear for new teams like mine (and hopefully the OP).  I haven't heard this advice given before.  There's enough to worry about already when building a new race car, and having to mod/upgrade everything seems like a good recipe for never getting to race. 

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Upgrading everything before a race also seems like a recipe to spend/upgrade the wrong things too. 

 

I second the advice to just get your safety stuff sorted, a few upgrades you think should be necessary and go race it. 

 

If you do find a test day, try to get one that is open lapping, no run groups. Go out and pound on the thing, unrelentingly, for hours!

 

on our first build we took it out in spring on a cold day (just above freezing) in the rain. A handful of 15-20 min sessions and we deemed it ready to go. How wrong we were! Car hardly made it through the first stint on race day!

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Very sound advice for sure. I would also recommend purchasing a current or former Champcar race car. It is much easier, quicker, and more bang for your buck. Building a new car can take forever and cost two to three times the amount you budgeted or thought it may cost. Good cars are available for sale and personalizing and repairing/fixing it will save you money and lots of time. 

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We gutted our car from a running, driving, pretty nice car to a shell and did everything we planned on doing. Bought the car in October 2017, tested it at Sebring the following August and first race was September 2018. 

YvwZLP.jpg

VVQ2wT.jpg

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On 4/30/2020 at 3:17 PM, Whip1a5h said:

Perfect... This car I'm getting has a set of one piece lights that I don't really care for so the light project will be on my agenda since that gives me an excuse to fix some jacked up wires

 

 

The LEDs can be found on Amazon for pretty cheap. 

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On 4/30/2020 at 1:31 PM, MoparBoyy said:

don't bother with a cam, stock horsepower is just fine.  you don't have enough fuel to be adding horsepower anyways.

 

whatever you do, don't put anything but a stock hood on the car.. the pitchforks will be out in full force.

IMG_20191223_172702.jpg

Haha ..fakenews!

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