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Hello!

 

Starting our first build of an s-10 to run in Champ Car and other midwest endurance races. Have read over the rules a couple times and have a few questions on our build.

 

We are swapping in an IRS from a 94 RX-7 into our 1996 S10. I cant figure out for the life of me swap points? 25?

 

Also, our truck is a single cab long bed, and when we are fabbing in the rear end we are going to use a driveshaft from a single cab short bed, I know that will be points, but when it comes to chopping the bed down, and making the bedsides flush to the cab (and cutting weight removing the front of the bed and most of tailgate inner skin) what is illegal to remove from the bed? can we remove the floor? plan on putting some aluminum for a tonneau over the entire bed as well

 

Look forward to seeing you guys at the track next year!!

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uh, what?   Do you also go back to a typewriter for better typing? Do you subscribe to the newspaper for faster news? You could sell the truck and get a horse for more direct power

A PID computer module taking input from the wideband AFR gauge commands tiny servo motors to turn the carb screws to adjust mixture??

Take the carpet from the interior and use it for a covering

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1 hour ago, mgoblue06 said:

We are swapping in an IRS from a 94 RX-7 into our 1996 S10. I cant figure out for the life of me swap points? 25?

https://champcar.org/tech/knowledgebase.php?article=139

 

1 hour ago, mgoblue06 said:

Also, our truck is a single cab long bed, and when we are fabbing in the rear end we are going to use a driveshaft from a single cab short bed, I know that will be points,

I'm not tech, but I highly doubt this will be points.  Send a inquiry at Tech Desk to be certain, but id say you can pretend your truck came as a "short bed" if you prefer.  I would suspect this falls under the "platform swap" rule - you are swapping to the short bed truck. 

 

Also, shortening a driveshaft is not points.  

https://champcar.org/tech/knowledgebase.php?article=23

 

1 hour ago, mgoblue06 said:

but when it comes to chopping the bed down, and making the bedsides flush to the cab (and cutting weight removing the front of the bed and most of tailgate inner skin) what is illegal to remove from the bed? can we remove the floor? plan on putting some aluminum for a tonneau over the entire bed as well

You can remove as much as you like, as long as you meet the 40% rule.  If the sides stay on, Id say you can remove everything else and still meet that rule.

 

Good luck!

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35 minutes ago, Huggy said:

 

 

You can remove as much as you like, as long as you meet the 40% rule.  If the sides stay on, Id say you can remove everything else and still meet that rule.

 

Good luck!

 

 

He means 60% rule

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An aluminum tonneau cover will be 2 points per square foot for material added - probably about 50 points to cover that bed. Wood is 1 point per square foot, which might be a better option - or just leaving it uncovered, depending on your budget.

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33 minutes ago, collinskl1 said:

An aluminum tonneau cover will be 2 points per square foot for material added - probably about 50 points to cover that bed. Wood is 1 point per square foot, which might be a better option - or just leaving it uncovered, depending on your budget.

 

Take the carpet from the interior and use it for a covering :)

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10 hours ago, LuckyKid said:

Whatever you do, don't chop the rear of the truck off. Tech does not like that.


 

wouldn’t necessarily be chopping off the back of the truck. It would still have a roll pan, tailgate welded in place, frame, etc. you shouldn’t be able to tell it was shortened. 
 

some of the bed floor will be removed for weight, as will the front 3-4 inches of the bed so the wheel wells line up with the wheels. 

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48 minutes ago, collinskl1 said:

An aluminum tonneau cover will be 2 points per square foot for material added - probably about 50 points to cover that bed. Wood is 1 point per square foot, which might be a better option - or just leaving it uncovered, depending on your budget.


I hate wood on a car, lol. Guess I’ll use some plywood, skim with bondo, then paint. Throw some vents in for the rear brakes and rear diff

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13 hours ago, mgoblue06 said:

Hello!

 

Starting our first build of an s-10 to run in Champ Car and other midwest endurance races. Have read over the rules a couple times and have a few questions on our build.

 

We are swapping in an IRS from a 94 RX-7 into our 1996 S10. I cant figure out for the life of me swap points? 25?

 

Also, our truck is a single cab long bed, and when we are fabbing in the rear end we are going to use a driveshaft from a single cab short bed, I know that will be points, but when it comes to chopping the bed down, and making the bedsides flush to the cab (and cutting weight removing the front of the bed and most of tailgate inner skin) what is illegal to remove from the bed? can we remove the floor? plan on putting some aluminum for a tonneau over the entire bed as well

 

Look forward to seeing you guys at the track next year!!

You are on the other forum too right? I'm Mr. Yuck there. If you are planning on running Champcar you'll need more than that V6, unless you are just going out to have some fun and turn some laps. These cars are much faster than Lemons.  If you show up with a well built and safe PU I doubt tech is going to jack you up unless you have some super cheaty parts on the thing. As for covering the bed I guess you could use 1/4" if you support it. If you sanded it real good, used a heavy primer/sealer you could paint in up nice. 

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1 hour ago, mgoblue06 said:


 

wouldn’t necessarily be chopping off the back of the truck. It would still have a roll pan, tailgate welded in place, frame, etc. you shouldn’t be able to tell it was shortened. 
 

some of the bed floor will be removed for weight, as will the front 3-4 inches of the bed so the wheel wells line up with the wheels. 

Move the truck bed floor up to be even with the top of the box, no points. You could put a little kick in it at the back as a spoiler. Angle the tailgate as needed for a diffuser, use the box sides to direct flow, etc.

 

TacomaJPP ran an S-10 for a while but I haven't seen him around here lately. The 4.3 can do very well, it's basically a six cylinder Vortec SBC.

Edited by mender
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22 minutes ago, mender said:

Move the truck bed floor up to be even with the top of the box, no points. You could put a little kick in it at the back as a spoiler. Angle the tailgate as needed for a diffuser, use the box sides to direct flow, etc.

 

TacomaJPP ran an S-10 for a while but I haven't seen him around here lately. The 4.3 can do very well, it's basically a six cylinder Vortec SBC.

 

I was going to suggest a lot of what he did. With a truck bed there is a lot you can do with all that material. Get creative and dont worry about what it looks like, worry about how it drives.

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1 hour ago, TiredBirds said:

You are on the other forum too right? I'm Mr. Yuck there. If you are planning on running Champcar you'll need more than that V6, unless you are just going out to have some fun and turn some laps. These cars are much faster than Lemons.  If you show up with a well built and safe PU I doubt tech is going to jack you up unless you have some super cheaty parts on the thing. As for covering the bed I guess you could use 1/4" if you support it. If you sanded it real good, used a heavy primer/sealer you could paint in up nice. 


yeah just started a thread here as well! They run Nelson Ledges which is about an hour and a half away, so want to have the truck to run two series. 
 

As for the engine, we have a spare V6 out of the extreme we robbed and scrapped, might just strip that down, go carbed for some extra power like the other champ truck build others have mentioned here. I’ll max t(e rear end out at 300hp, so if we can get the weight down, and add some power we should have fun

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57 minutes ago, mgoblue06 said:

go carbed for some extra power

If you can, and know how to work on it, stay stock injected for a minute, that stuff offers plenty.

Also

A few years ago lots of folks would delete ABS for  *insert reason here*, now people seem to prefer it.

 

I say this for a couple reasons, mostly, you need to run the thing FIRST to see where leftover points should be spent, you may have vastly different opinions afterward.

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On 8/28/2020 at 11:46 AM, mgoblue06 said:


, go carbed for some extra power 

uh, what?

 

Do you also go back to a typewriter for better typing?

Do you subscribe to the newspaper for faster news?

You could sell the truck and get a horse for more direct power also?

 

 

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1 hour ago, Huggy said:

uh, what?

 

Do you also go back to a typewriter for better typing?

Do you subscribe to the newspaper for faster news?

You could sell the truck and get a horse for more direct power also?

Left out the superior rotary dial phone, so much faster than touch-tone and more convenient than a cellphone.

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In general, champ forum people are very helpful and friendly, but you have to get used to the sarcasm.  Don’t carb your engine.  @Huggyis one of the best builders you will ever meet.  He just won 1st and 2nd in the grueling 24 hour race at VIR.  If he says no carb, you should take that advice. 

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8 hours ago, Racer28173 said:

In general, champ forum people are very helpful and friendly, but you have to get used to the sarcasm.  Don’t carb your engine.  @Huggyis one of the best builders you will ever meet.  He just won 1st and 2nd in the grueling 24 hour race at VIR.  If he says no carb, you should take that advice. 

 

 

Lol thanks for that. I was like WTF for a min

 

I guess I thought about carb for the ease of use, less poop to crap out, aka PCM

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Next issue, fuel tank

 

In the middle of working on the car today, banging on the frame, the fuel tank sprung a leak. Guess it would rather have it now rather than later. We were debating a fuel cell, well now looks like we are forced to.

 

So when it comes to that im really confused honestly.

 

Basically the only options are a 500-600 dollar fuel cell wrapped in a metal case. is this true if it is mounted in the bed area? poly SFI/FIA tanks available to save cost? ANY tank not oem has to be one of the two?

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14 minutes ago, mgoblue06 said:

Next issue, fuel tank

 

In the middle of working on the car today, banging on the frame, the fuel tank sprung a leak. Guess it would rather have it now rather than later. We were debating a fuel cell, well now looks like we are forced to.

 

So when it comes to that im really confused honestly.

 

Basically the only options are a 500-600 dollar fuel cell wrapped in a metal case. is this true if it is mounted in the bed area? poly SFI/FIA tanks available to save cost? ANY tank not oem has to be one of the two?

Get another stock tank and continue on, plenty of other stuff to spend $$ on right now

 

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1 hour ago, mgoblue06 said:

Next issue, fuel tank

 

In the middle of working on the car today, banging on the frame, the fuel tank sprung a leak. Guess it would rather have it now rather than later. We were debating a fuel cell, well now looks like we are forced to.

 

So when it comes to that im really confused honestly.

 

Basically the only options are a 500-600 dollar fuel cell wrapped in a metal case. is this true if it is mounted in the bed area? poly SFI/FIA tanks available to save cost? ANY tank not oem has to be one of the two?

Get a cheap stock tank for now.  Moat teams have some teething issues when going to a fuel cell anyway.

 

Yes, I believe it needs to be sfi or fia rated for a fuel cell.

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14 hours ago, wvumtnbkr said:

Get a cheap stock tank for now.  Moat teams have some teething issues when going to a fuel cell anyway.

 

Yes, I believe it needs to be sfi or fia rated for a fuel cell.

get another stock tank, you might be able to relocate it to spread  the weight around. THe SFI/FIA tanks aren't cheap... 

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