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Anyone ever have a set of axles get stuck in place? 
F23 transmission.  There are circlips that are supposed to compress and come out.  Yes I’ve tried prying back and forth, tapping with hammer, 6ft bar, even dropped it off at a local transmission shop that used the proper tools and they couldn’t get them out.  
It has a Quaiffe diff in it and I’m worried the grooves may not be tapered? Diff was in the car when I bought it.  
I’ve got a call into Quaiffe to try and get a drawing of the input. 
If it’s tapered like a factory one, I’m thinking about making a set of puller plates or cutting the stub axle off and splitting it to get better access.  Any other ideas? 

D6205E92-4BE1-431C-B23F-C507C85585BF.jpeg

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I've had them be stiff on other diffs but not your type specifically.  What I did was to hang the transmission/diff in the air, suspended by the end of the half-shaft (not the shaft, but its end).  Then go to town with the prybars and big hammers.  If you can get a good grip on the end of the half-shaft you can drop the transmission, let the weight of it do the slide-hammer effect.

 

Did you try a pickle fork between the stub shaft housing and the transmission case?

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The Toyota uses the same type. I use a 1x1 square steel bar about 5' long and hit it good with a sledge hammer to get it to move. I also angled it so I can pry it in between the axle and case and pop it that way.  Sometimes I need to pry it in there and then hit that was a sledge hammer also. They can get really stuck in there. Sometimes is takes a good amount of force, sometimes not so much. You can try twisting and wiggling it so the C clip might center and that might help.

 

BTW- I do it while in the car and doing outside the car like that is going to make it move a lot. I say good luck and God speed.

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The best method I've used is to have one prybar applying constant pressure on one side of the stub axle and then have a second pry bar on the opposite side that you pop with some type of impact force. With both bars acting together it helps keep the stub axle from binding one way on the circlip. 

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1 hour ago, MMiskoe said:

I've had them be stiff on other diffs but not your type specifically.  What I did was to hang the transmission/diff in the air, suspended by the end of the half-shaft (not the shaft, but its end).  Then go to town with the prybars and big hammers.  If you can get a good grip on the end of the half-shaft you can drop the transmission, let the weight of it do the slide-hammer effect.

 

Did you try a pickle fork between the stub shaft housing and the transmission case?

Yeah we tried the pickle fork.  
 

We don’t have a hoist so doing it in the car wouldn’t have been fun.  We did try when it was still attached to the subframe and engine, but the motor mounts are in the way too.  

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41 minutes ago, petawawarace said:

Oh cool. Thanks.  Are you running this trans too?

 

Yea. The Fiero is Ecotec with an F23. It's a good setup for us because they have several final drives available and it's a pretty easy trans to find salvage. Also...it accepts stock Fiero axles. 

Edited by XelderX
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Just now, petawawarace said:

Ah yes.  2.4Ecotec too? 

 

Yep. We've got to pull ours soon. When we rebuilt the selector mechanism to work with mid-engine placement I didn't get the reverse lockout put back correctly. One of our drivers tried to turn it into a 6 speed....so we have no reverse gear at the moment. 

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4 minutes ago, XelderX said:

 

Yep. We've got to pull ours soon. When we rebuilt the selector mechanism to work with mid-engine placement I didn't get the reverse lockout put back correctly. One of our drivers tried to turn it into a 6 speed....so we have no reverse gear at the moment. 

Ah yes.  The motors and trans are so easy to find for dirt cheap. I just picked up a 35,000km motor for $400. 

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There was a time in the neon world where there were a ton of knock off quaifes floating around. They were not properly machined and many had their axles get stuck the same way yours are. It was so bad that services were offered through shops to properly machine the knock off lsd’s. 
 

I would not be surprised if this happened in the Chevy cavalier/cobalt scene as well.

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1 hour ago, Mopar 4 Life said:

There was a time in the neon world where there were a ton of knock off quaifes floating around. They were not properly machined and many had their axles get stuck the same way yours are. It was so bad that services were offered through shops to properly machine the knock off lsd’s. 
 

I would not be surprised if this happened in the Chevy cavalier/cobalt scene as well.

Interesting but likely not the case here.  These diffs are not advertised for Cobalts (F23 trans). Quaiffe only markets them for Vauxhauls.  The original owner of the car ordered right from Quaiffe.  
 

Ive made a 10lb slide hammer assembly that I will attach to the stub axle and suspend from my welding table.   It it doesnt pop out with that, it’s gonna need surgery. 

Edited by petawawarace
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4 hours ago, petawawarace said:

Interesting but likely not the case here.  These diffs are not advertised for Cobalts (F23 trans). Quaiffe only markets them for Vauxhauls.  The original owner of the car ordered right from Quaiffe.  
 

Ive made a 10lb slide hammer assembly that I will attach to the stub axle and suspend from my welding table.   It it doesnt pop out with that, it’s gonna need surgery. 

10lb slide? Hmm.  I use a 15lbs sledge and have to watch it pretty hard with that. I am not sure a slide will do it.

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4 hours ago, petawawarace said:

suspend

It’s only going to come out if suspended completely perpendicular.

 

Like others have mentioned, I get the biggest fattest pry bar or two while it’s still installed and may have to hammer on it with a monster shortie sledgehammer. Opposing wedges hammered in anger might do it.

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8 minutes ago, Team Infiniti said:

It’s only going to come out if suspended completely perpendicular.

 

Like others have mentioned, I get the biggest fattest pry bar or two while it’s still installed and may have to hammer on it with a monster shortie sledgehammer. Opposing wedges hammered in anger might do it.

Yes. It’ll be completely vertical. The axle line will be printing straight down.   I’ve just gotta make the adapter to go around the stub and I’ll try it. 

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On 11/19/2020 at 8:17 PM, XelderX said:

 

Yep. We've got to pull ours soon. When we rebuilt the selector mechanism to work with mid-engine placement I didn't get the reverse lockout put back correctly. One of our drivers tried to turn it into a 6 speed....so we have no reverse gear at the moment. 

Here's what I did for F23 shift linkage in my Fiero:

KIMG0621.jpg

 

294986178_F23small.thumb.png.7d9ae3d2eb353f937f6382c745dc838a.png

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We clocked the shift mechanism 90* and redrilled the mounting plate/internal locating pins for that. That allowed us to use pretty straight cable runs over the top of the transmission. We figured straighter and shorter would be more reliable in the long run. It took forever to engineer, but it works. 

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If you get really screwed you can always....

 

1) cut the axles at the stub

2) unbolt the case to split it and remove diff

3) unbolt diff to split to two halves of the quaife, and then remove the circlips and or further grind\cut the end of the subs to pull them from the side gears

 

I have run into issues with some aftermarket axles being a press fit at the axle splines when using a quaife diff. I think quaife have a tighter tolerance than oe (smaller spline od) and if the axles are oversized from oe slightly they may fit in an oe diff but are gualling the splines tight in the smaller spline od diff.

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34 minutes ago, Black Magic said:

If you get really screwed you can always....

 

1) cut the axles at the stub

2) unbolt the case to split it and remove diff

3) unbolt diff to split to two halves of the quaife, and then remove the circlips and or further grind\cut the end of the subs to pull them from the side gears

 

I have run into issues with some aftermarket axles being a press fit at the axle splines when using a quaife diff. I think quaife have a tighter tolerance than oe (smaller spline od) and if the axles are oversized from oe slightly they may fit in an oe diff but are gualling the splines tight in the smaller spline od diff.

This is my last solution, but may be needed. It will require cutting both of the axle stubs unfortunately. 

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