Jump to content

What happened to your ChampCar today 2021 ??


 Share

Recommended Posts

50 minutes ago, QuaTTro said:

Correct. We race a 1990 Audi 90 Quattro sedan with the 7A naturally aspirated 5-cyl engine (164hp crank).

Sweet.

 

I'm helping a buddy with his 200 getting it ready for Champcar. But I don't know anything about Audi's other than they don't make much sense to me. I'm gonna make sure he sees this. He's probably already aware of your car though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, shutupracing said:

Sweet.

 

I'm helping a buddy with his 200 getting it ready for Champcar. But I don't know anything about Audi's other than they don't make much sense to me. I'm gonna make sure he sees this. He's probably already aware of your car though.

yeah I'm friends with Colin on FB.  We've chatted a few times and I'm happy to help if he reaches out.  I secretly want to race in his car at Watkins Glen sometime in the future.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, shutupracing said:

Yeah you Audi guys better stick together. 😂

I believe there are only a few Audi's racing in Champcar these days, and they are all different models and different engines.

 

- Audi 90 Quattro with 2.3L 20V 5-cyl NA

- Audi A4 FWD with 1.8t

- Audi A4 Quattro with 2.8L NA

- Audi 200 Quattro 2.2L 10V 5-cyl Turbo

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just for fun I played around with the idea of a 2000 A6. 350 point car, if you used the 2.7 biturbo you would pay the extra 100 points for a factory turbo car and end up with 50 points to fix any major flaws.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/17/2021 at 7:44 AM, MichaelPal said:

Did some running @ Shenandoah over the weekend to test out some things. During one of the later runs when I went in the trunk to check the fueling system, I pointed a temp gun at the surge tank (aluminum) and noted 101F surface temp! I'll be doing some thermal management of the exhaust piping under the truck area to help bring that down.

 

Anyone else ever record / note fuel temperatures?

I have been monitoring fuel temp for a couple years.  I measure it at the rail.  At the hottest point in the 24hr last year max was around 120.  

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update: the engine fired up tonight! We only ran it for a few seconds because the radiator isn’t installed yet. But overall a successful night.

 

Tonight we had to install the oil cooler, front crossmember, and intake system. The first few startups failed and we ended up troubleshooting some fuel leak issues. Then it was all good.

 

We meet again Sunday to install the new fuel lines, radiator and fenders….then it’s off to get alignment and engine break in laps at Harris Hill.

 

 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Car is off to the shop to get aligned and corner balanced. Curious to see what the weight of the car is. Decided to pay them to do the 2nd rear main seal. Saving my energy for things like the electrical, paint, etc. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, Fetterhund said:

Car is off to the shop to get aligned and corner balanced. Curious to see what the weight of the car is. Decided to pay them to do the 2nd rear main seal. Saving my energy for things like the electrical, paint, etc. 

what car is it ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, QuaTTro said:

what car is it ?

BMW I believe but what car are you excited to change a rear main seal on?  I wish I had a shop I felt I could trust and wouldn't charge me an arm and a leg for stuff like that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, TimS said:

BMW I believe but what car are you excited to change a rear main seal on?  I wish I had a shop I felt I could trust and wouldn't charge me an arm and a leg for stuff like that.

ohhhhhh....i learned a few lessons on the M20 RMS!!! two things: 1) be careful on the install of the rms as its a bit tricky and you can easily damage the rubber-ish gasket on the metal seal disk; and 2) more importantly: you need to over-do it on the loctite on the flywheel bolts! that basically seals the whole thing. if you don't put enough sealant on those bolts it will weep oil into clutch area and f*** you....

 

apologies if you know all of this already, but figured i'd share a few lessons learned hard way....

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, atxe30 said:

ohhhhhh....i learned a few lessons on the M20 RMS!!! two things: 1) be careful on the install of the rms as its a bit tricky and you can easily damage the rubber-ish gasket on the metal seal disk; and 2) more importantly: you need to over-do it on the loctite on the flywheel bolts! that basically seals the whole thing. if you don't put enough sealant on those bolts it will weep oil into clutch area and f*** you....

 

apologies if you know all of this already, but figured i'd share a few lessons learned hard way....

@E. Tyler Pedersen....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, Hurljohn said:

Its probably too soon!

Lolz.  We talk multiple times a day.

 

It is too soon.  Tyler is still acclimating to having a new lady in his house!

 

But, he WILL get his poop refocused at some point and wanna come out swinging!

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think I have killed two alternators over the course of the last month with incorrectly installed kill switch resistor and using the main shutoff to cut the engine. 
 

4430 Pegasus shut off switch. It kills RPMs at 1500 no problem! But also alternators 😂

 

Bench tested a spare yesterday, 14.3 volts, in the truck, no charge, 11.8 volts. Wiring matches the diagrams in the shop manual. Going to take the first one I might have killed, and the second, to the local guy to get tested tomorrow. 
 

if it’s not killed alternators, than I have no clue why we aren’t charging. Simple system.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, QuaTTro said:

what car is it ?

E39. M52B28. I did the RMS when I had the engine and trans out for a bunch of little things and a new clutch and flywheel. Funny thing is the old RMS was the one thing NOT leaking. Replaced every thing that could leak, then it became the only thing to leak. 

 

Thought it was the new oil pan gasket at first, as through a camera it looked like there was a huge gap between the block and pan but further inspection showed I looked at things wrong and the pan gasket was sealed and dry. The RMS was wet and it appeared to have splattered oil on the flywheel as well. 

 

This shop knows their stuff, especially with BMW. Another team locally uses them and referred me. I think I probably owe them a round of adult beverages for a solid reference. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, mgoblue06 said:

I think I have killed two alternators over the course of the last month with incorrectly installed kill switch resistor and using the main shutoff to cut the engine. 
 

4430 Pegasus shut off switch. It kills RPMs at 1500 no problem! But also alternators 😂

 

Bench tested a spare yesterday, 14.3 volts, in the truck, no charge, 11.8 volts. Wiring matches the diagrams in the shop manual. Going to take the first one I might have killed, and the second, to the local guy to get tested tomorrow. 
 

if it’s not killed alternators, than I have no clue why we aren’t charging. Simple system.  

Do you need a charging light or resistor for the alternator to trigger?  I know some older versions required the resistance to activate the alternator.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, wvumtnbkr said:

Do you need a charging light or resistor for the alternator to trigger?  I know some older versions required the resistance to activate the alternator.

When we removed the stock cluster it therefore removed the battery lamp that competed the circuit to tell it to turn on as you can see. 
 

can we just wire it direct to provide voyage to turn on? Or does that lamp provide as specific resistance? FED65E52-9B40-4609-B90B-7E945386153C.jpeg.176eb32fcbb971d0d5bdc8670bbebe1f.jpeg

93E22935-3937-4ACE-887D-E4ACAC394C21.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, mgoblue06 said:

When we removed the stock cluster it therefore removed the battery lamp that competed the circuit to tell it to turn on as you can see. 
 

can we just wire it direct to provide voyage to turn on? Or does that lamp provide as specific resistance? FED65E52-9B40-4609-B90B-7E945386153C.jpeg.176eb32fcbb971d0d5bdc8670bbebe1f.jpeg

93E22935-3937-4ACE-887D-E4ACAC394C21.png

I ’m a Chevy guy who’s never had these troubles because I always run a lightbulb.

  To be safe I would recommend an incandescent lamp on your new dashboard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also, Sure fire but a controversial item when discussed, wire it like factory, with a big fuse running from your alternator main straight to battery positive post..

 

The surge Generated by killing the car with the switch is absorbed into the battery, rather than regulator and diode‘s, also, don’t use your Killswitch to turn off the car it’s a safety item!

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

24 minutes ago, mgoblue06 said:

When we removed the stock cluster it therefore removed the battery lamp that competed the circuit to tell it to turn on as you can see. 
 

can we just wire it direct to provide voyage to turn on? Or does that lamp provide as specific resistance? FED65E52-9B40-4609-B90B-7E945386153C.jpeg.176eb32fcbb971d0d5bdc8670bbebe1f.jpeg

93E22935-3937-4ACE-887D-E4ACAC394C21.png

 

Is "Turn On Input" like a ignition key?


You need that "Battery lamp" connection for the field of the generator. My Datsun had the same, the alternator will not charge without the "field input".

 

How did you wire the alternator with that pegasus switch?

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, Team Infiniti said:

Also, Sure fire but a controversial item when discussed, wire it like factory, with a big fuse running from your alternator main straight to battery positive post..

 

The surge Generated by killing the car with the switch is absorbed into the battery, rather than regulator and diode‘s, also, don’t use your Killswitch to turn off the car it’s a safety item!


 

 

yeah won’t be using that switch anymore. Will shut it off with ignition switch and once off turn off the safety key to de-energize the system. 
 

is there a specific universal battery lamp out there I should look for to wire in since ours was located built into the cluster?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, turbogrill said:

 

Is "Turn On Input" like a ignition key?


You need that "Battery lamp" connection for the field of the generator. My Datsun had the same, the alternator will not charge without the "field input".

 

How did you wire the alternator with that pegasus switch?

 

Just followed the directions? Lol 

 

it works perfectly as advertised, rev to 1500 and cuts everything. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...