turbogrill Posted July 28, 2021 Report Share Posted July 28, 2021 Hi How often do you have critical fuses such as coil, injector, dbw fuses blow? (Where there was no issue with the components) Planning to redoing my wiring, curious how often a blown fuse is a problem? Obviously if something is broken the fuse will blow and that's a good thing. Thinking about a PDM of some sort but not sure if it's more reliable since I don't think fuses are generally unreliable. Agree that pdm makes wiring very nice. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Infiniti Posted July 28, 2021 Report Share Posted July 28, 2021 Properly sized fuses in a unmodified config should never blow. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvumtnbkr Posted July 28, 2021 Report Share Posted July 28, 2021 4 minutes ago, Team Infiniti said: Properly sized fuses in a unmodified config should never blow. 100% agree. We only blow fuses when we do something dumb. Not sure how you have things grounded, but (me) being bad at electricity, that seems to be a common issue with automotive wiring. Nobody thinks about grounds when doing maintenance. Wires and wire bundles that move around can cause issues. Also, just make sure all of your end terminals are covered in some way. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelPal Posted July 28, 2021 Report Share Posted July 28, 2021 ^ Ditto what Rob said. I’ve never blown a fuse without first doing something silly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbogrill Posted July 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2021 Thanks! I have had fuses blow due to being an idiot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members MR2 Biohazard Posted July 28, 2021 Members Report Share Posted July 28, 2021 Fuses are there to blow, if needed, though there are much better solutions. The simplest is replace the fuse with a breaker. The next, if rewiring a entire car and want a dash is to go AIM PDM. I had a fuse blow, mid race, a few times, due to a wire chaffed that rubbed to ground in the middle of harness. When I came in and put in a new fuse all was good. We even taped a fuse the car and had to change it mid race a time or two until we figured it out. It would take 3-5 hours on track for it happen. It happened 3 times and I took apart the entire harness and started over and found it. Trying to find something like that can be very hard. I even had the correct plastic insulation, it just wore through and was behind and under something so I did not see it and would not have found it unless I remove the entire harness, which I did. If I had a breaker it would have just reset and been good, until it chaffed all the way through and then the breaker would not reset. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotchkis23 Posted July 28, 2021 Report Share Posted July 28, 2021 We've had one fuse blow in 8 years....ground issue. Like Rob said, stuff moves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimS Posted July 28, 2021 Report Share Posted July 28, 2021 Be sure PDM can take the inrush from using the safety/isolation switch. I used a cheap pdm used mainly for off road lights and first check of safety switch blew out half the circuits. Had to rewire with relays and fuses. The AIM setup is likely built for racing and priced accordingly. Be sure to check when finished Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbogrill Posted July 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2021 14 hours ago, MR2 Biohazard said: Fuses are there to blow, if needed, though there are much better solutions. The simplest is replace the fuse with a breaker. The next, if rewiring a entire car and want a dash is to go AIM PDM. I had a fuse blow, mid race, a few times, due to a wire chaffed that rubbed to ground in the middle of harness. When I came in and put in a new fuse all was good. We even taped a fuse the car and had to change it mid race a time or two until we figured it out. It would take 3-5 hours on track for it happen. It happened 3 times and I took apart the entire harness and started over and found it. Trying to find something like that can be very hard. I even had the correct plastic insulation, it just wore through and was behind and under something so I did not see it and would not have found it unless I remove the entire harness, which I did. If I had a breaker it would have just reset and been good, until it chaffed all the way through and then the breaker would not reset. So in this case I guess a PDM would help? Since it would auto reset instead of you having to pit and replace a fuse (or be towed in or whatever..) Too bad they are so pricey, I already have a dash so the best option would probably be an ECUMaster PMU16. Another option would be the Haltech Nexus R5. Its a ECU+PDM+WIDEBAND+Logger all in one box, but its $4000. Good deal since you get everything in it but lots of money, aftermarket ECU is a luxury for my NC Miata. The PMUs also has a ton of analog inputs that gets broadcasted on CAN, so that is a nice bonus feature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members MR2 Biohazard Posted July 29, 2021 Members Report Share Posted July 29, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, turbogrill said: So in this case I guess a PDM would help? Since it would auto reset instead of you having to pit and replace a fuse (or be towed in or whatever..) Too bad they are so pricey, I already have a dash so the best option would probably be an ECUMaster PMU16. Another option would be the Haltech Nexus R5. Its a ECU+PDM+WIDEBAND+Logger all in one box, but its $4000. Good deal since you get everything in it but lots of money, aftermarket ECU is a luxury for my NC Miata. The PMUs also has a ton of analog inputs that gets broadcasted on CAN, so that is a nice bonus feature. The breakers are only a few bucks each. Also, the aim pdm32 comes with a dash, datalogger and gps for around 2K. You can spend almost that on a dash alone. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZSJDVK6/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B08ZSJDVK6&pd_rd_w=ScLWS&pf_rd_p=91afecf5-8b2e-41e2-9f11-dc6992c6eaa1&pd_rd_wg=GE73K&pf_rd_r=BJ5RSD5X017C33NP0T0F&pd_rd_r=b4f81c39-1aaf-4f4b-a3eb-a61fd4d57548&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExSU9GSjFGQzcySjdOJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODM4MTM4UjBYTlIwWFVLTlgyJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxNDMyNDYzUUoxTjFLN1E3SlhWJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== Edited July 29, 2021 by MR2 Biohazard 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atxe30 Posted August 10, 2021 Report Share Posted August 10, 2021 @turbogrill PDM dude!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbogrill Posted August 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2021 (edited) 2 hours ago, atxe30 said: @turbogrill PDM dude!!!! $1500 dude! (Running RS4 instead if the CR-1 / RE71r for 2 races would pay for it, but then we would have to improve our driving to be in the top, hmm...) Edited August 10, 2021 by turbogrill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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