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Tribute to Fallen Police Officers build


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   I am getting close to retirement. I wanted to do something for our Police Brethren who put there lives on the line for us everyday. I, for one, am disturbed by the growing contempt towards these gentlemen for political gains and retribution towards those deemed as the “enemy “. 
 

  This corvette was owned by police officer killed in the line of duty that lived in my development. He left behind a wife and 3 children. I did not know this man personally, except for the wave and cold drink offered as he patrolled our area. My wife is the HOA President and worked with the Officers wife through the association. She is now faced with raising 3 teenaged children by herself. A handful of us have helped however we can. Obviously selling the Vette was not an easy decision. The cost of upkeep and maintenance  of this car just is not possible for her with limited income. 
 

   I would like to build a tribute car for fallen Officers. I have interest in my area. A local shop has offered to work on the car for free as long as I pay for the parts. I have a cage already donated. Working on other safety items. A local tire shop has offered tires at just above cost. I have an appointment with a local Chevrolet dealership for some sponsorship. There is some issues with the Fallen Officers Fund that needs to be worked out. Hope to hear from them soon on how to move forward. I have no Guarantee on if all will come together. It does seem to be gaining strength. 
 

  I will need some help with this build. I am not very knowledgeable on the C4 Vette. So…..a few questions for the Forum Jockeys. ANY help will be appreciated. 
 

   The car is 1996 LT4 ZF 6 speed with the Z51 package. The motor leaks oil from everywhere except the Optispark. The wheel bearings need replaced. All the Bushings need replaced. The electrical system is……..well not as horrid as European models but it’s bad. At idle the Speedometer will go from 0 mph to 4, 5, 3, 6 mph at a stand still. The interior lighting is possessed by demons. Nothing that cannot be overcome. At 540 points it will not be competitive. If someone has a game plan to get this C4 under 500 points let me know how to accomplish this. It will need a road race oil pan at 25 points to live for an entire race. Do I claim the car as an 88? 
 

  Does anyone make a wiring harness for the C4? I cannot find a stand alone harness for the motor. 
 

  The serpentine belt system is not very conducive to removing AC or modifications for no points. Suggestions? 
 

  

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Edited by Cam Benty
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Yay! Another LT4!

Tons of suggestions routes you could take. The main one I'd suggest; find someone that will trade you for their '90-'91 manual car + cash. You'll have a better starting point and you can throw the money towards the build. Mainly, you can't lose points and without doing an engine swap, you're going to be at 550points. More info below:

Points:
If you're serious about getting it under the 500points, you need to find an L98 from an '88-'91 Vette and do the complete swap (ECU/Harness/ETC); it will be the tuned port motor w/ Al heads. Declare it as a '91 and you'll be at 450 points.  You can sell the LT4 in there for decent money; keep the harness intact and with the computer, it's worth about $1500-$2500 together depending on the market down there. The LT4 starts at 550 so you're hosed walking through the door.  The motors are drag and drop in from a mechanical standpoint, just keep the block mount brackets to attach to the later model C4 K-Member.

 

Cage:

Find your tallest driver and build the cage around them.  These cars suck getting in and out of with the stock roof line; getting the cage under the roof leaves very little room for "oh poop, I'm upside down and on fire".

 

 

Transmission:

You have what's called a "blue tag". It has a dual mass FW. FW is good for the street, garbage for the track. Try and find a used aftermarket steel FW. Any clutch kit you get, the FW must be for the L98 which I believe has a different balance than the '96 and the throwout bearing for the '96. The blue tags have a smaller diameter input shaft sleeve than the black tags; the TO bearings aren't interchangeable. Carolina Clutch is a good source for reasonably priced clutch kits for these cars. Get the stage 3. Don't do unsprung; harder on the driveline and not worth it. 

 

Engine:
Again, the LT4 forces you to be a '96 and you walk in the door w/ 550points before you upgrade anything. You can switch to the L98 to enter as a '91 and start at 450points. My suggestion is you spend ALL these points on cooling/oiling, even if you're going further into the hole for the LT4. I know the rules are about to change next year WRT radiators; will have to check how it will impact, but Champion makes a very inexpensive 2 core AL radiator (<$200). Regardless of engine you chose, you're going to want to crack it open, check out the bearings, and do a basic refresh on the motor. At minimum you're going to want to ARP the rods, new bearings, and have the bores cleaned up. Get some ARP head bolts for if you inevitably have to change the heads. The L98s intake/exhaust is horribly limiting; they fall flat around 4500-5000 rpm. They make good torque, but no HP up top. This is actually a GOOD thing for survivability; early shifting. High RPM kills these motors, notably the rods. So it's imperative to keeping it well oiled and well cooled. With that in mind, do a aftermarket radiator and a accusump. One of the reasons the LT4 sucks is it uses the optispark. I have changed this damn things more times than I care to admit. The L98 uses a traditional distributor. 

Suspension:

Obviously rebuild it with new bushings. All manual transmission C4 vettes came with a Dana 44 which is bulletproof for stock HP. More than likely a 3.45 rear ratio. Don't waste your time on cheap wheel bearings, they will only last a single race if that. Moog bearings are pricey but they have 3 year warranties. (Timken only have 1). On the front, you'll need to have someone cut/shave down the spherical washers the upper a-arms mount to get any sort of negative camber, especially once you start cutting weight out of the car. For springs, you'll have to look up the codes but get the absolute stiffest one up front and softest in the rear. Not so much a problem on the '96 but earlier years were horribly oversprung in the ass. Did this once at the track. Every braking zone was a game of chase your tail. 

 

Brakes:
Upgrade to the C5 kit at minimum up front regardless of the year C4 you land on; stock C4 brakes can't take extended track abuse.  I run carbotech X12's in the front with good luck. Stock brakes in back are sufficient and I run XP10's in the rear to prevent lockup. 

Other:
Sell the gauge cluster. It's a one year only unit; the tach goes to 8k vs normal 7k due to the LT4 revving higher. Corvette owners fap over this. Worth about $400. Sell everything else you can in the car interior as well. It all has to come out anyway. 

 

Again, the '96 is a good car but honestly, I really think you'd be better off trading/selling it and getting a '90-'91. You can see with all the stuff you'll have to do, it's going to get really expensive really quickly. 



 

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That was some solid advice!

 

But...

 

I am going to suggest, contrary to the excellent advice above, if you are want to use this fallen officer's car as a racing memorial, consider eating the points. Let it be the "officer's car".  I think the emotional value for people might be greater if it was really "his car" not just a shell with a platform swap. Kinda made me think of the song Riding with Private Malone that was on the radio a lot a few years back. Either way, I think this is a great project and look forward to seeing what you do with it!

 

Ff you haven't already reach out to the 100 Club they might have some good contacts or people interested. Might even be able to get some media coverage, even if you don't have front runner. For example: NASCAR Truck Team Remembers Fallen State Trooper Tyler Edenhofer (sports360az.com) Also that is a great example of using the agency's livery as well. Do you know his badge number? Might be cool to put it on the car. Might be able to get some PR support from the agency itself if you reach out to their PIO. 

 

 

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I agree that if you want to keep the car in his honor, then running that particular car may be the way to go. You're going to have to pull the drive line regardless since you said it's leaking everywhere. 

 

Some other random things: At least for us, the biggest issue is the damn optispark. Get a spare or two for every race. Do everything you can to make sure it's sealed up nice and tight. If they get any oil/dirt in them they take a dump and your car stops running. So many times on a back stretch of a track and having the car cut off b/c the opti took a dump. 

While stock fuel tank is good for now, going to a 22 gallon fuel cell will allow you to run full two hour stints. This will be spendy; $1300 for the fuel cell and expect up to $1000 more to buy the adapter that allows you to install. 

Take as much weight out as you can, cut the doors so pretty much it's only the outer skins and that little metal support bar. The cars are porky; 3450 lbs stock before adding a cage. Only thing I wouldn't recommend chopping up is the under of the hood. It makes it super flimsy to the point you'll need to have two people lift it otherwise it will snap in half. 

 

For the accessories, gut the AC compressor and use that instead of a pulley delete. Save you $200 and you won't get dinked on points. 

Edited by RandomTask
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16 hours ago, RandomTask said:

Yay! Another LT4!

Tons of suggestions routes you could take. The main one I'd suggest; find someone that will trade you for their '90-'91 manual car + cash. You'll have a better starting point and you can throw the money towards the build. Mainly, you can't lose points and without doing an engine swap, you're going to be at 550points. More info below:
Thank you in advance. 


Points:
If you're serious about getting it under the 500points, you need to find an L98 from an '88-'91 Vette and do the complete swap (ECU/Harness/ETC); it will be the tuned port motor w/ Al heads. Declare it as a '91 and you'll be at 450 points.  You can sell the LT4 in there for decent money; keep the harness intact and with the computer, it's worth about $1500-$2500 together depending on the market down there. The LT4 starts at 550 so you're hosed walking through the door.  The motors are drag and drop in from a mechanical standpoint, just keep the block mount brackets to attach to the later model C4 K-Member.

Questions for you: 

1. There are 3 C4 race cars in Houston that are track Monsters. 2 of the cars are LT4 units with road race pans and the ZF trans. I have no idea what clutch assembly it is running or how it is wired. The other C4 has a fully prepped 4.8 LS (just under 5 liters. The motor takes your breath away! 8600 rpm screamer. Obviously this is not an option with this build.) with a Jericho trans I had the privilege to shake down. The motor in the car I have currently will be coming out for a full going over. It is still mostly a small block Chevy with the Optispark. I have enough knowledge to keep it from scattering the motor. The rear main, China rail on the intake as well as the entire rear of the motor hemorrhages oil. If this is not viable, could I claim an 88 to 91 and drop a 5.3 or 4.8 LS? The LT4 is 330hp. I can find an LS with less HP to keep it right at 50 points? What trans would I need? 

 

The wiring harness is my biggest concern. Who makes a new stand alone harness for this car? If I can buy a harness for a Fox Ford surely someone can do an LT Chevrolet? 

 

Cage:

Find your tallest driver and build the cage around them.  These cars suck getting in and out of with the stock roof line; getting the cage under the roof leaves very little room for "oh poop, I'm upside down and on fire". 
Thank you. My fat backside struggles to get in and out of this thing in stock configuration. 

 

 

Transmission:

You have what's called a "blue tag". It has a dual mass FW. FW is good for the street, garbage for the track. Try and find a used aftermarket steel FW. Any clutch kit you get, the FW must be for the L98 which I believe has a different balance than the '96 and the throwout bearing for the '96. The blue tags have a smaller diameter input shaft sleeve than the black tags; the TO bearings aren't interchangeable. Carolina Clutch is a good source for reasonably priced clutch kits for these cars. Get the stage 3. Don't do unsprung; harder on the driveline and not worth it. 

Big Help!!!!! Thank you again.

Engine:
Again, the LT4 forces you to be a '96 and you walk in the door w/ 550points before you upgrade anything. You can switch to the L98 to enter as a '91 and start at 450points. My suggestion is you spend ALL these points on cooling/oiling, even if you're going further into the hole for the LT4. I know the rules are about to change next year WRT radiators; will have to check how it will impact, but Champion makes a very inexpensive 2 core AL radiator (<$200). Regardless of engine you chose, you're going to want to crack it open, check out the bearings, and do a basic refresh on the motor. At minimum you're going to want to ARP the rods, new bearings, and have the bores cleaned up. Get some ARP head bolts for if you inevitably have to change the heads. The L98s intake/exhaust is horribly limiting; they fall flat around 4500-5000 rpm. They make good torque, but no HP up top. This is actually a GOOD thing for survivability; early shifting. High RPM kills these motors, notably the rods. So it's imperative to keeping it well oiled and well cooled. With that in mind, do a aftermarket radiator and a accusump. One of the reasons the LT4 sucks is it uses the optispark. I have changed this damn things more times than I care to admit. The L98 uses a traditional distributor. 
The only thing I am knowledgeable about is making a SBC last. I will be on the look out for an L98. We are fortunate to have a strong short track heritage in our area. 5500 rpm is GM sweet spot. You are spot on with the rpm range. 

Suspension:

Obviously rebuild it with new bushings. All manual transmission C4 vettes came with a Dana 44 which is bulletproof for stock HP. More than likely a 3.45 rear ratio. It is a 3.45. Don't waste your time on cheap wheel bearings, they will only last a single race if that. Moog bearings are pricey but they have 3 year warranties. (Timken only have 1). On the front, you'll need to have someone cut/shave down the spherical washers the upper a-arms mount to get any sort of negative camber, especially once you start cutting weight out of the car. For springs, you'll have to look up the codes but get the absolute stiffest one up front and softest in the rear. Not so much a problem on the '96 but earlier years were horribly oversprung in the ass. Did this once at the track. Every braking zone was a game of chase your tail. 

Again huge. Thank you for that info. 

Brakes:
Upgrade to the C5 kit at minimum up front regardless of the year C4 you land on; stock C4 brakes can't take extended track abuse.  I run carbotech X12's in the front with good luck. Stock brakes in back are sufficient and I run XP10's in the rear to prevent lockup. 
I have read that the C5 brakes cannot stand up to road racing. I have found a kit for C6 brakes for the C4. The LS C4 I drove had this C6 brake system. The anti lock C4 system was used with the C6 brakes. I have to look into this system. Henry Robeseaux has a race shop locally. He put this set up together. 

Other:
Sell the gauge cluster. It's a one year only unit; the tach goes to 8k vs normal 7k due to the LT4 revving higher. Corvette owners fap over this. Worth about $400. Sell everything else you can in the car interior as well. It all has to come out anyway. 

 

Again, the '96 is a good car but honestly, I really think you'd be better off trading/selling it and getting a '90-'91. You can see with all the stuff you'll have to do, it's going to get really expensive really quickly. 
Noted. I will weigh all options. If this turns into a circus I may just buy a crate motor with a TKO and keep it simple and race elsewhere. A shame this cannot be made to be competitive. 



 

 

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3 hours ago, RandomTask said:

I agree that if you want to keep the car in his honor, then running that particular car may be the way to go. You're going to have to pull the drive line regardless since you said it's leaking everywhere. 
It is a leaking pig. This is my first direction to keep it as close to as you see it. 

 

Some other random things: At least for us, the biggest issue is the damn optispark. Get a spare or two for every race. Do everything you can to make sure it's sealed up nice and tight. If they get any oil/dirt in them they take a dump and your car stops running. So many times on a back stretch of a track and having the car cut off b/c the opti took a dump. 
I have spoken with Pinto Dave about the Optispark. He did not have any issues with it. Not that I am doubting your word. The LT4 has full roller valve train with a good factory cam. I do not intend to twist the motor over 5500rpm. I may regret trying to run this motor. If I cannot find a Harness it may not be an option anyway.

While stock fuel tank is good for now, going to a 22 gallon fuel cell will allow you to run full two hour stints. This will be spendy; $1300 for the fuel cell and expect up to $1000 more to buy the adapter that allows you to install. 

I already have a cell. I would not get in a race car without one. For the life of me I do not understand why anyone would build a race car and not use a cell. The factory units are not engineered for racing. Anyone who thinks otherwise is being cavalier with their life.

Take as much weight out as you can, cut the doors so pretty much it's only the outer skins and that little metal support bar. The cars are porky; 3450 lbs stock before adding a cage. Only thing I wouldn't recommend chopping up is the under of the hood. It makes it super flimsy to the point you'll need to have two people lift it otherwise it will snap in half. 
noted. 

 

For the accessories, gut the AC compressor and use that instead of a pulley delete. Save you $200 and you won't get dinked on points. 
I have an issue with that. Could a Camaro system be used on the C4 without AC? A gutted AC unit would eventually lock up. There has to be some other option?

 

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3 hours ago, RandomTask said:

I agree that if you want to keep the car in his honor, then running that particular car may be the way to go. You're going to have to pull the drive line regardless since you said it's leaking everywhere. 

 

Some other random things: At least for us, the biggest issue is the damn optispark. Get a spare or two for every race. Do everything you can to make sure it's sealed up nice and tight. If they get any oil/dirt in them they take a dump and your car stops running. So many times on a back stretch of a track and having the car cut off b/c the opti took a dump. 

While stock fuel tank is good for now, going to a 22 gallon fuel cell will allow you to run full two hour stints. This will be spendy; $1300 for the fuel cell and expect up to $1000 more to buy the adapter that allows you to install. 

Take as much weight out as you can, cut the doors so pretty much it's only the outer skins and that little metal support bar. The cars are porky; 3450 lbs stock before adding a cage. Only thing I wouldn't recommend chopping up is the under of the hood. It makes it super flimsy to the point you'll need to have two people lift it otherwise it will snap in half. 

 

For the accessories, gut the AC compressor and use that instead of a pulley delete. Save you $200 and you won't get dinked on points. 

 

If the optispark is so bad why keep it? engine management is free these days, modern cars have very nice ECU’s, but on old 80’s vintage engine management you can actually gain a lot of performance with a good ECU.

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31 minutes ago, Cam Benty said:

If this is not viable, could I claim an 88 to 91 and drop a 5.3 or 4.8 LS? The LT4 is 330hp. I can find an LS with less HP to keep it right at 50 points? What trans would I need? 

 

A 1991 C4 had 245hp. As there is not an LS with equal or lesser power it would never be a 50 point swap. The swap would be based off the '91 HP, not the 96.

 

 

1 minute ago, mhr650 said:

 

If the optispark is so bad why keep it? engine management is free these days, modern cars have very nice ECU’s, but on old 80’s vintage engine management you can actually gain a lot of performance with a good ECU.

Last I looked is a distributor change is still points.

 

While ECU's and such are free. Ridiculous.

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Ah…..yes. Thank you Good man. 
 

Please excuse my mild case of pugilism. I have COVID-19 AND streptococcus. Yes I have gotten the flu shots. Yes I wore a mask. The shots are a joke. Chose wisely good Sir. 
 

At 62 this flu kicked my tail. 

6 minutes ago, Bandit said:

A 1991 C4 had 245hp. As there is not an LS with equal or lesser power it would never be a 50 point swap. The swap would be based off the '91 HP, not the 96.

 

 

 

Just now, Cam Benty said:

Ah…..yes. Thank you Good man. 
 

Please excuse my mild case of pugilism. I have COVID-19 AND streptococcus. Yes I have gotten the flu shots. Yes I wore a mask. The shots are a joke. Chose wisely good Sir. 
 

At 62 this flu kicked my tail. 

 

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As far as a wiring harness, I'd look at the Holley Terminator setup since it's going to be a race car. Not positive, but it SHOULD work. Contacting Holley should get the info needed. 

 

Just looked; https://eficonversions.com/blogs/holley-efi/holley-terminator-x-for-1992-1997-lt1-engines

 

Should be simpler than trying to work with the factory harness, let alone finding a replacement.

 

eta-Get well soon.

Edited by Bandit
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1 hour ago, Bandit said:

As far as a wiring harness, I'd look at the Holley Terminator setup since it's going to be a race car. Not positive, but it SHOULD work. Contacting Holley should get the info needed. 

 

Just looked; https://eficonversions.com/blogs/holley-efi/holley-terminator-x-for-1992-1997-lt1-engines

 

Should be simpler than trying to work with the factory harness, let alone finding a replacement.

 

eta-Get well soon.

. . . I have a team mate who can't stop referencing that thing .  . That stated, I *think* the terminator X may work off the crank position sensor on the cars. The trigger wheel is only 4x so it's kinda low resolution. 

That stated, the *ideal* way of solving the opti is the torquehead 24x system which is only a couple hundred bucks; it uses LS coils. . . but again, it is yet more points. 

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That is what I was looking for. Thanks.

 

1 hour ago, Bandit said:

As far as a wiring harness, I'd look at the Holley Terminator setup since it's going to be a race car. Not positive, but it SHOULD work. Contacting Holley should get the info needed. 

 

Just looked; https://eficonversions.com/blogs/holley-efi/holley-terminator-x-for-1992-1997-lt1-engines

 

Should be simpler than trying to work with the factory harness, let alone finding a replacement.

 

eta-Get well soon.

 

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To answer your questions - 


Harness: Just cut the crap out you don't need from the harness. It's really not that difficult. You'll have to get the ECU tuned to have the stuff like the secondary O2's and the passkey stuff  removed. I think the company I used for this was LT1PCMTuning or something of that sort; guys name was Simon. Fairly inexpensive (~$150). The '96 cars use OBII and it takes a special SW to tune it (HPTuners will NOT work). I think it's call Dynamic Spectrum Tuner. The PCM is finicky when getting programmed as in sometimes when you're tuning it will randomly brick itself. You can use the ECU out of a '97 Camaro as a backup. In '96 (and '97 camaro LT1/LT4) the cars came with a crank position sensor. This sensor does not control anything about timing/etc and is only used for diagnostic; it allows the PCM to determine exactly which cylinder has/had a misfire. 

 

Brakes: I've had nothing but good luck with the C5. IIRC The C6 Z51 calipers are simply slightly more rigid than the c5 setup so they don't taper the pad as much. Dealers choice. 

 

Pinto Dave: Don't listen to a word that man says. He sold me to a bunch of australian pigmies for a nickel one year and it took my 4 months to save up for airfare to get back. ;) Dave is good people; he loaned me an opti one time after my third one crapped out on the track. . . :( Once you get a good opti, keep it forever. 

AC Compressor: The bearing is actually separated from the internals; it's a sealed bearing that rests on an outside lip. You'll remove the armature anyway (as well as the internals) so it's not a problem. 


 

 

 

 

 

Edited by RandomTask
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2 hours ago, Bandit said:

A 1991 C4 had 245hp. As there is not an LS with equal or lesser power it would never be a 50 point swap. The swap would be based off the '91 HP, not the 96.

 

 

Last I looked is a distributor change is still points.

 

While ECU's and such are free. Ridiculous.

 

I agree this part of the rules is outdated, and more than a little confusing. I take it that this part of the rules is to charge points if someone wanted to run a MSD distributor and or ignition box

 

Distributor, non-OE, or aftermarket ignition system: 20 pt

 

But in 2021 why would you ever run a distributor in the first place? The rule regarding coils reads.

 

Ignition coil(s), aftermarket: 10 pt

 

It doesn’t say anything about using coils from a different Chevy engine.

 

The aftermarket ignition system rule is made kind of redundant by the free ECU rule, since even the cheapest modern ECU can run both fuel and ignition.

 

I believe this area of the rules is outdated because nobody has really investigated it for a while, the vast majority of people running in ChampCar today don’t have to worry about distributors or MSD boxes. Seems like an area ripe for a petition.

 

Edited by mhr650
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1 hour ago, RandomTask said:

. . . I have a team mate who can't stop referencing that thing .  . That stated, I *think* the terminator X may work off the crank position sensor on the cars. The trigger wheel is only 4x so it's kinda low resolution. 

That stated, the *ideal* way of solving the opti is the torquehead 24x system which is only a couple hundred bucks; it uses LS coils. . . but again, it is yet more points. 

It does kind of appear the Terminator setup would be much easier with the LS style individual coils. Makes sense as it was basically designed for LS engines.

 

It doesn't appear Holley has a kit, but rather the shop I linked above has made the harness to hook it up to the Term X.

 

As far as coils and such, it'll be down 8 laps with a purchased road race pan so what's one more if it gets dinged for coils.😂 Even if they are not aftermarket.

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23 minutes ago, mhr650 said:

Distributor, non-OE, or aftermarket ignition system: 20 pt

 

But in 2021 why would you ever run a distributor in the first place? The rule regarding coils reads.

I'm pretty sure the 2nd and 3rd gen Camaros/60's Mustangs/the C3R/C4 Vettes etc are running distros.

 

Kind of ridiculous they get banged 20 points for an ancient tech distributor/MSD box while ECU's are free.

Edited by Bandit
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Trust me it needs A LOT of work. The C4 is not generating the interest as Fox platform or Gen 4 Camaro and Firebird. It is a good platform for this series. It is just clobbered with points. 
 

It was Garage kept. With 94k miles restoring it just does not make economic sense unless it has sentimental value. The aftermarket is significantly less than Ford or Camaro. The C4 is still easy to work on compared to the C5 or newer. 
 

1 hour ago, Bandit said:

Been meaning to say, other than the leaky engine this seems like an awfully clean car to make into a race car. Will be a good looking car out on track. 

 

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44 minutes ago, Cam Benty said:

Trust me it needs A LOT of work. The C4 is not generating the interest as Fox platform or Gen 4 Camaro and Firebird. It is a good platform for this series. It is just clobbered with points. 
 

It was Garage kept. With 94k miles restoring it just does not make economic sense unless it has sentimental value. The aftermarket is significantly less than Ford or Camaro. The C4 is still easy to work on compared to the C5 or newer. 
 

 

Hello I’m owner and builder of the subliminal racing c4. I have had quite a few teams reach out to me for info on a build

like mine. Message me if your would like to hear about the problems and solutions with the platform. 

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On 7/28/2021 at 7:55 PM, RandomTask said:

 For springs, you'll have to look up the codes but get the absolute stiffest one up front and softest in the rear. Not so much a problem on the '96 but earlier years were horribly oversprung in the ass. Did this once at the track. Every braking zone was a game of chase your tail

Not sure if this will help:

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/engineer-weighs-corvette-leaf-springs-deep-talk-se/

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I have not had much luck with this series as far as petitions. ( Thunderbird and Mustang owner. Points reduction has not been favorable) 

 

Hopefully there will be light shed on the Vette. The Vette is not  that much better than the LT1 Camaro. The 944 is less points than the Vette.

 

6 hours ago, mhr650 said:

 

I agree this part of the rules is outdated, and more than a little confusing. I take it that this part of the rules is to charge points if someone wanted to run a MSD distributor and or ignition box

 

Distributor, non-OE, or aftermarket ignition system: 20 pt

 

But in 2021 why would you ever run a distributor in the first place? The rule regarding coils reads.

 

Ignition coil(s), aftermarket: 10 pt

 

It doesn’t say anything about using coils from a different Chevy engine.

 

The aftermarket ignition system rule is made kind of redundant by the free ECU rule, since even the cheapest modern ECU can run both fuel and ignition.

 

I believe this area of the rules is outdated because nobody has really investigated it for a while, the vast majority of people running in ChampCar today don’t have to worry about distributors or MSD boxes. Seems like an area ripe for a petition.

 

 

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