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Full Radio Setup


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I have a complete radio setup to sell. I went full digital and have spares, too many spare, so I am selling some things.

 

This setup has worked really well and I upgraded to a full digital setup, but in reality it works like this setup. All you would need is the helmet mic/speakers, but each driver usually has that at this point.

 

IMSA connector

4x HYT radios.

4X HYT chargers

1 extra battery for car radio

1 car harness

1 push to talk

1 roof radio antenna

1 power cord bus

 

$250

 

If anyone wants or needs

 

20210917_150707.jpg

Edited by MR2 Biohazard
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On 9/17/2021 at 2:02 PM, MR2 Biohazard said:

I have a complete radio setup to sell. I went full digital and have spares, too many spare, so I am selling some things.

 

This setup has worked really well and I upgraded to a full digital setup, but in reality it works like this setup. All you would need is the helmet mic/speakers, but each driver usually has that at this point.

 

IMSA connector

4x HYT radios.

4X HYT chargers

1 extra battery for car radio

1 car harness

1 push to talk

1 roof radio antenna

1 power cord bus

 

$250

 

If anyone wants or needs

 

20210917_150707.jpg

Any information on the digital setup you went to??

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1 hour ago, Chappy said:

Any information on the digital setup you went to??

I can tell you which one I went to!

 

I got the motorola "style" radios from Sampson racing.  Imsa car harness and helmet setups.  3 radios.  The "shark fin" style antenna (which I don't run anymore because of some ground plane issue I could not resolve).  

 

All in was like 1250$.  Money well spent.  We never have radio issues.  Everything is LOUD and clear. Even at long tracks like VIR.

 

Spend the money on the good stuff once and you will only feel the pain once.  Spend it on something half ass and you will regret it and end up spending the money again anyway.

 

I can tell you there are 2 issues with digital radios...

1) you can actually hear the donkey-hole behind the wheel through all of their complaining...

2) playing music over digital radios doesn't work very well for some reason.  It comes out horribly dissonant and is VERY unpleasant in my experience.

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2 minutes ago, wvumtnbkr said:

I can tell you which one I went to!

 

I got the motorola "style" radios from Sampson racing.  Imsa car harness and helmet setups.  3 radios.  The "shark fin" style antenna (which I don't run anymore because of some ground plane issue I could not resolve).  

 

All in was like 1250$.  Money well spent.  We never have radio issues.  Everything is LOUD and clear. Even at long tracks like VIR.

 

Spend the money on the good stuff once and you will only feel the pain once.  Spend it on something half ass and you will regret it and end up spending the money again anyway.

 

I can tell you there are 2 issues with digital radios...

1) you can actually hear the donkey-hole behind the wheel through all of their complaining...

2) playing music over digital radios doesn't work very well for some reason.  It comes out horribly dissonant and is VERY unpleasant in my experience.

+1 for @Sampson Racing Radios Great experiences working with them and their products.

And they still offer ChampCar discounts.

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  • ChampCar Staff
1 hour ago, wvumtnbkr said:

I can tell you which one I went to!

 

I got the motorola "style" radios from Sampson racing.  Imsa car harness and helmet setups.  3 radios.  The "shark fin" style antenna (which I don't run anymore because of some ground plane issue I could not resolve).  

 

All in was like 1250$.  Money well spent.  We never have radio issues.  Everything is LOUD and clear. Even at long tracks like VIR.

 

Spend the money on the good stuff once and you will only feel the pain once.  Spend it on something half ass and you will regret it and end up spending the money again anyway.

 

I can tell you there are 2 issues with digital radios...

1) you can actually hear the donkey-hole behind the wheel through all of their complaining...

2) playing music over digital radios doesn't work very well for some reason.  It comes out horribly dissonant and is VERY unpleasant in my experience.

I do not use the roof antenna and did not find it helps much. Just the long whip antenna. The radios cost like $100-120 each and I have 4, plus new car harness (70), push to talk (30), adapter (20). Radio costs add up quickly. Tyler told me about these radios so I got what he said.

https://www.amazon.com/MD-UV380-136-174Mhz-400-480Mhz-Handheld-Radio/dp/B07CY6CRZH

 

I get my car harness and items from here.  Car harness, helmet kits, push to talk and adapters. I like to support sponsors when I can, but have to save money where I can also. http://raceradiosdirect.com/home.asp

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Thanks guys.  I’m currently running Baofeng UV-5R radios.  I’ve ran them with the original antennas, a “better” whip style antenna, and now with a “good” externally mounted antenna. The car side wiring is all racing radios parts.   My reception seems to suck.  Beginning to think it’s maybe the radios… hate to spend big bucks on radios if they don’t improve things.  

Edited by Chappy
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12 hours ago, MR2 Biohazard said:

I do not use the roof antenna and did not find it helps much. Just the long whip antenna. The radios cost like $100-120 each and I have 4, plus new car harness (70), push to talk (30), adapter (20). Radio costs add up quickly. Tyler told me about these radios so I got what he said.

https://www.amazon.com/MD-UV380-136-174Mhz-400-480Mhz-Handheld-Radio/dp/B07CY6CRZH

 

I get my car harness and items from here.  Car harness, helmet kits, push to talk and adapters. I like to support sponsors when I can, but have to save money where I can also. http://raceradiosdirect.com/home.asp

 

I use the TYT MD 390's as well and love them for racing as well as a general DMR if you're into that sort of thing.

We're running a split of Sampson and Race Radios Direct stuff in the car / helmets on the team. I also use the "longer" whip b/c we purchased, but ran w/o the sharkfin and never ended up installing it. I will say I intentionally mounted the radio high in the car and the whip sticks out just above the roof line, so best possible placement.

 

Race Radios Direct also makes a nice IMSA Over the Wall set up as well that really tones down the shouting at pit stops & is useful if you hop in a car w/o a harness or as a backup for your in car.

 

11 hours ago, Chappy said:

Thanks guys.  I’m currently running Baofeng UV-5R radios.  I’ve ran them with the original antennas, a “better” whip style antenna, and now with a “good” externally mounted antenna. The car side wiring is all racing radios parts.   My reception seems to suck.  Beginning to think it’s maybe the radios… hate to spend big bucks on radios if they don’t improve things.  

 

Lots of folks make the UV-5R work. I'm looking at a set right now I use as emergency scanners, but it takes work to get it right. I personally elected to go better comms b/c with the mix of drivers it was going to be a big deal.

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12 hours ago, Chappy said:

Thanks guys.  I’m currently running Baofeng UV-5R radios.  I’ve ran them with the original antennas, a “better” whip style antenna, and now with a “good” externally mounted antenna. The car side wiring is all racing radios parts.   My reception seems to suck.  Beginning to think it’s maybe the radios… hate to spend big bucks on radios if they don’t improve things.  

A lot has to do with how it is programmed. Also make sure all wiring connections are tight, we notice the clearances on the cheap chinese parts sometimes aren't the tightest fit and work loose while racing..

We use the UV-5R and rugged radios helmet/car wiring and have great reception with a 10" radio antenna on a stick above our canopy in the pits and a shark fin in the center of the roof of the car.  I set up a bunch of channels in the GMRS/FRS range (UHF) with DCS codes to keep things private and not step on anyone, pretty simple once you know what you're doing.

It's worth noting - to transmit on GMRS/FRS frequencies at >2Watts no matter what radio you use the FCC wants you licensed.  UV-5R is 4?watts on high setting, the TYT high setting appears to be 5W.  The updated UV-5R (BF-F8HP) is up to 8W.  License is 70 bucks and required no test, and is good for 10 years.  I decided at $3.5 a race (we run twice a year) it was well worth the investment.

Edited by BollingerChump
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