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NB Miata build


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My team is trying to decide on the suspension setup for our NB Miata. We are starting with a bare roller.  Roll cage and floor drop are installed.  See photo.  The goal is to be ready for the start of the 2023 season.  We currently run an NB MIata that will become the "backup car" next season. 

 

Questions:

 

1. Should we use offset bushing for the front upper control arms or should we use extended ball joints.  

2. Should we stick with the old Bilstein spec Miata coil over shocks or go to the new Penske setup. What has been the experience with Penske on durability? 

3. Is there a particular brand of control arm bushings that are "best".  Does anyone use Powerflex bushings? 

4. Is it worth the effort to do seam welding on the chassis

5. Is a front strut tower brace worth the 10 points

 

Any other suggestions are welcomed.   

20220725_142449.jpg

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1  No offset needed, no need to take the points.  Most TW200 tires don't need that much camber.  Besides there are other ways to gain negative camber w/o taking points.

2  Penske's seem to work well, so far no issues with ours

3  don't know

4  No.  The roll cage provides more stiffness than the seam welding will.  The NA/NB tubs are pretty f'ing tough.  Ours went to the frame shop 3 times in its first 4 seasons of Champ (grrrrrrrrrr) and although none of the fenders/hoods fit for crap, the k-members and suspension points are good.

5  Not sure it is points.  The sport model's came with them.  But I'll let you duke that out with the tech desk.

 

Looks like you're doing some CAD for the dashboard - Cardboard Assisted Design.  (not to be confused with CAD used for wiring diagrams - Crayon Assisted Design).

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We race a '90 1.6 now and currently building a 2000 to replace it so here's our experience

1) offset bushings will give you plenty of adjustment range. Extended ball joints are nice, but I definitely won't say they're necessary.

2) we have Bilsteins on our '90 with 800 front / 325 rear springs. Just ordered the 5x Racing spec package (700 front / 325 rear) for the 2000 and going to work from there. We saw no way to justify the extra cost of Penskes

3) the '90 has Delrin bushings everywhere. But the 2000 is getting the Supermiata kit. Less than half the cost of delrin and gives a much smoother travel with way less binding. They have a very good video on YouTube about them.

4) if you value your time, no. Will it make the chassis stiffer? Technically yes, by some percentage I'm sure. Will you notice and reap the benefits over other miatas? Doubtful

5) no. For the same reason as seam welding. You won't gain any tangible benefit.

 

 

Edited by T-PAP
Added video of bushings
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1) i would skip the offsets. wrong 10 points (5 per corner). per tech desk article 209, extended ball joints  went to 10 per corner so nah to that(2-22-22). at 10 points, there are better spends.

2) penske's threaded are baller class. yeah they are great. gen 1 with sleeves will get cheap cause the spec guys are clamoring over the threaded penskes. but billies are OG, and hell its fun to pass baller penske cars with OG billies.  rebuilt/revalved billies are pretty darn quick even if they are steel and weigh more than baller aluminum penskes. im going to look at a set of afco's eventually (aluminum monotube, threaded, nonadjustable) but have billies cause it was CHEAP! like $100 for a old spec miata set.

3) the supermiata stuff is nice. SadFab is the OG delrin for miatas. there is also a nylatron version out there: https://miataroadster.com/products/ols/products/a1-ground-control-nylatron-control-arm-bushing-kits. the supermiata stuff is the best  bang for buck, easiest to get right, and likely give the best performance unless you nail the delrin.

i use roy/part badge'sr delrin bushing, but the 863 and nylatron came out later i think. we use nylatron material in industrial stuff at work, its self lubricating, hard and wears very little. love the idea in the bushing. the 863 goes over the PITA a delrin setup can be.

4) time+$ vs outcome, it cant really hurt if done right, but is it worth it, eh? if you got the time and its only wire+power, i guess? rather sped the time on the driver mod i guess.

5) wing/airdam/splitter/front diffuser/rear diffuser likely a better 10 point spend.

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