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E30 brake Calipers


Minneapolis
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Has anyone tried a brake upgrade on an E30?  If so what have you tried?

 

Our stock Calipers have done fine for the last ten years but one of the fronts has gone beyond its useable life and needs replacement so I was considering a change to a kit that uses 4 four piston Willwoods. The reason for the change would be to get better pedal feel.  We run a 15 x 8 inch wheel and not much fits in that space.

 

One concern I have is our current stock pad 0.61 inches thick and the Wilwood takes a 0.49 thick pad.  In an eight hour event we often use 75% of the pad.

Edited by Minneapolis
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43 minutes ago, Minneapolis said:

Has anyone tried a brake upgrade on an E30?  If so what have you tried?

 

Our stock Calipers have done fine for the last ten years but one of the fronts has gone beyond its useable life and needs replacement so I was considering a change to a kit that uses 4 four piston Willwoods. The reason for the change would be to get better pedal feel.  We run a 15 x 8 inch wheel and not much fits in that space.

 

One concern I have is our current stock pad 0.61 inches thick and the Wilwood takes a 0.49 thick pad.  In an eight hour event we often use 75% of the pad.

@Chris Huggins

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Couple of things.

What pads are you using?

Stock MC and Booster?

 

If pads are only lasting 10 hours then you’ve got a pad issue or a braking issue from the person pushing the pedal. We use PFC-08’s and they last two race weekends(~24 hours) with a little bit left to test with. We are typically Top-10/15.

 

I think Huggins is working on a kit that will work with some of the 8” wheels. 

 

 

Edited by jakks
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11 hours ago, jakks said:

Couple of things.

What pads are you using?

Stock MC and Booster?

 

If pads are only lasting 10 hours then you’ve got a pad issue or a braking issue from the person pushing the pedal. We use PFC-08’s and they last two race weekends(~24 hours) with a little bit left to test with. We are typically Top-10/15.

 

I think Huggins is working on a kit that will work with some of the 8” wheels. 

 

 

Everything is stock on the brakes including master cylinder and booster.  Run Hawk HT-10 or the new Hawk Enduro pad.  I think tire type, track configuration, are key contributors to pad wear.  We run the the HanKook tire and see 8 hours at Road America, a very hard track on brakes, as the standard we need to achieve.  We run top 5-10.

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7 hours ago, Minneapolis said:

Everything is stock on the brakes including master cylinder and booster.  Run Hawk HT-10 or the new Hawk Enduro pad.  I think tire type, track configuration, are key contributors to pad wear.  We run the the HanKook tire and see 8 hours at Road America, a very hard track on brakes, as the standard we need to achieve.  We run top 5-10.

My advice, take it or leave it…

 

Switch to PFC-08 pads.

Add proportioning valve (unless you have functioning ABS)
Go to autozone or oreilly and get the remanufactured girling calipers. They are about $80 with $10 core. I’m on my third set of calipers in 8 years and have not had any caliper troubles (always replaced preemptively)

Front pads go 20+ hours at road america, rears go further. 

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  • 1 month later...

We run PFC-08 with a wilwood proportioner, ABS delete, everything else is stock.  I got 3 weekends out of those pads and rotors. One at INDE motor sports park and 2 on Big Willow.

 

Interesting note: the rear girling reman calipers I got from autozone have the bleed valve on the bottom making it a real PITA to bleed correctly.

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  • Technical Advisory Committee
21 minutes ago, AV8Driver said:

Interesting note: the rear girling reman calipers I got from autozone have the bleed valve on the bottom making it a real PITA to bleed correctly.

 

This means they are on the wrong side.

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12 hours ago, AV8Driver said:

@Chris Huggins I knew someone would suggest this…but trust me I looked at it and compared them to the old calipers (which I am going to re-build).  It’s really strange because the brake line fitting is in the same spot, bleed valves are opposite.

I just looked at my remanufactured girlings and they are normal (bleeder and hose on top)... maybe yours got REALLY remanufactured and had damaged bleeder threads so they welded the bleeder spot closed and drilled a new one??

Edited by enginerd
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