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What’s your preferred way to power 5+ sensors and accessories from one power switch? I bought some cheap distribution blocks and that solution just isn’t working for me. I want

1) not messy 

2) easy to add an additional sensor or two in later years.

3) fewer / shorter wires is better

4) wires should be visible and easy to access… I don’t want to just hide a rat nest behind a panel

5) adequate and simple would be better than a difficult “perfect” solution 

 

This is my current switch panel:

https://www.jegs.com/i/QuickCar+Racing/635/50-864/10002/-1?gclid=CjwKCAjwo7iiBhAEEiwAsIxQEcmf4HeqhjkUb3EgCsMH4Tc_WyP7fHrnQ7-LgZor1jUamfriewHrCBoC9jIQAvD_BwE

Edited by enginerd
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If price is of no concern I would use a PDM and CAN switches. 
https://www.haltech.com/product-category/inputs-and-can-expansion-products/

maybe even incorporate the ECU too. Since budget is open. 
https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-193000-nexus-r3-vcu/

 

use Tefzel wire to reduce overall bulk of wiring and Deutsch connectors and plugs

Edited by TimS
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Ive been happy with something similar to @Chris Huggins's suggestion. BlueSea systems distribution block with ATO fuses, got the 12 place so I had spares for future. Downside is it's kind of bulky for just a few sensors.

 

I've been considering DIN rail and the corresponding terminal blocks for future builds. Can get 1, 2, or 3 pole terminal blocks, jumpers to create distribution between them, relays that pop right in, etc. Only hold up I have at the moment is concern about how something usually for mounting in stationary industrial equipment will handle the shock and vibe of a racecar. I mean it does fine in CNC's and stamping machines so probably ok?

Edited by Wittenauer Racing
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spacer.png

 

This might not be the same brand, but there are lots to choose from.  They come up as "automotive buss bars".  One big post to power/ground them then a whole bunch of others to make up your own personal rats nest.

 

If you want to fuse the items after your switch panel then something like Chis posted works too.

 

 

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Leash electronics makes a bunch of relay boards and you can use negative triggers.  Wire all the grounds to one switch, then separate all the powers to each circuit.   You gain fuses, relays, and lighted led for testing.  You need to ask for negative triggers, or you can still use the positive trigger board with negative triggers but the led lights dont work.    

 

I have one of the 6 circuit boards but they make an 8 and 12 versions.   Its all motorsport grade and usa made.  

https://leashelectronics.com/products/pro-6-relay-module

 

They also make some nice fuse blocks, and a bunch of different wiring solutions.

Edited by hkerekes
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23 hours ago, enginerd said:

 

Not helpful for your question, but how do you like this switch panel? I've been seeing some warning signs from my cheap switches and want to move to something more heavy duty.

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31 minutes ago, obscene said:

Not helpful for your question, but how do you like this switch panel? I've been seeing some warning signs from my cheap switches and want to move to something more heavy duty.

I’ve use it since 2014 if that helps! The starter button wears and has been replaced twice.

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Not sure this is what you are looking for as there is no switch.  But these fuse blocks work great for easy access and tracing wires as needed.  You could always control the hot bus with a switch I guess.  And now that I see my 15 amp fuse is in upside down, my OCD will drag me back to the garage to flip it.    image.png.807b35ed37cc64d3fdc1382b328fb713.png

 

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4 hours ago, tneker said:

Not sure this is what you are looking for as there is no switch.  But these fuse blocks work great for easy access and tracing wires as needed.  You could always control the hot bus with a switch I guess.  And now that I see my 15 amp fuse is in upside down, my OCD will drag me back to the garage to flip it.    image.png.807b35ed37cc64d3fdc1382b328fb713.png

 

Are you talking about that correctly oriented 51 amp fuse? 

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Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, tneker said:

image.png.807b35ed37cc64d3fdc1382b328fb713.png

 

Oooooo cable labels. Nice. I see most people mount their boxes and wires on vertical surfaces… mine are mounted to the trans tunnel and get filthy (horizontal surface… dirt falls and lingers?), I think I’ll change that. 

Edited by enginerd
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I used a color system and used a dozen different colors.  Just to lazy to use p-touch printer to label everything. I have a hand written print too. 

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On 5/4/2023 at 2:48 PM, Ron_e said:

I rewired the entire car and used two of these to clean everything up.  If the fuse is blown the light comes on at the blown fuse, everything has its own unique fuse and circuit.  In Canada it is Princess Auto, in the US it is Harbour Freight.

 

 https://www.princessauto.com/en/10-circuit-standard-blade-fuse-block/product/PA0008684631

not Harbour Freight in U.S.

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