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1 hour ago, enginerd said:

Rebuilding brake calipers. 6 weeks to Road America!

 

Don't remind me!

 

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Spent all weekend wiring. Amazing that something I hate doing, yet I get so much satisfaction from. You get immediate results and know if something works or not.

 

Wired:

ECM

Fuel pumps

adjustable shocks

Fans

Radio

cool shirt setup

lights

starter

accusump

trans cooler

 

Still need to finish fuel plumbing and coolant before I can fire the engine

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On ‎2‎/‎24‎/‎2016 at 1:47 PM, Negative1 said:


Hah! I blame PintoDave for this. I had originally planned on running a 3800 powered f-body.

 

Sweet!!!

 

If 6 cylinders are good, then 2 extra must be gooderer.....

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47 minutes ago, PNWZR1 said:

Spent all weekend wiring. Amazing that something I hate doing, yet I get so much satisfaction from. You get immediate results and know if something works or not.

 

Wired:

ECM

Fuel pumps

adjustable shocks

Fans

Radio

cool shirt setup

lights

starter

accusump

trans cooler

 

Still need to finish fuel plumbing and coolant before I can fire the engine

 

You have electronically adjustable shocks in your ChumpCar?

 

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Got the new transmission in along with a new radiator and hooked up a passenger side kill switch rather than remount the one on the driver side. 

We are good to go for Daytona!!!

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1 hour ago, LAMR2 said:

 

You have electronically adjustable shocks in your ChumpCar?

 

 

They were a factory option.

 

3 way adjustable.

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I tore the transmission apart for new synchros and bearings.

IMG_20160307_195358.jpg

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No No No! That is all wrong! How are you going to lose things if they are all neatly laid out on the bench? Jeeez, get it right.

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Never fear! I am highly skilled at losing things I'm wearing on my head or had in my hand 2 minutes ago. Things sitting way over there on a bench? Practically lost already.

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1988 Thunderbird with fresh 5.0 (and a 22 gallon oem tank! )

Coming soon to a Daytona near you.

 

jay

engine bay.jpg

Edited by jracer98
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Decided to stop worrying about the build rules and just make it go fast for a long time. 

Put in headers

Put in MegaSquirt ECU

Installed a Holley Hydramat

So what if I start 20 laps down on the identical platform of a car 10 years older.  I'll just go have some fun and ignore the lap penalty.

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2 minutes ago, lenbo211 said:

Decided to stop worrying about the build rules and just make it go fast for a long time. 

Put in headers

Put in MegaSquirt ECU

Installed a Holley Hydramat

So what if I start 20 laps down on the identical platform of a car 10 years older.  I'll just go have some fun and ignore the lap penalty.

 

 

Super cool.  I'm fascinated by that Hydromat.  :)  anything out of the ordinary when installing?

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2 minutes ago, my parts guy said:

 

 

Super cool.  I'm fascinated by that Hydromat.  :)  anything out of the ordinary when installing?

Its amazingly easy.  I'd never opened up a tank before attempting this.

 

You just need to make sure you have a way to hold it to the bottom of the tank or it will float and fold up on itself.

They sell either super strong rare earth magnets which is what I got, or they sell a type of epoxy.  I was a little nervous about using the epoxy.  Didn't know if my bladder would allow it to stick or possibly degrade over time.

The magnets didn't actually work that well.  The bladder material was too thick for them to get good adhesion to the metal.

In the end, I didn't need either the magnet or epoxy.  I just put the anti-slosh foam back in since it was a pretty tight fit and that held it down just fine. If you use the magnets, be careful not to over tighten. the small bolts in them break very easy. (Lesson learned hard way)

The only hurdle I ran into was that the fitting on the Mat and on my Bosch 044 in tank fuel pump had different threads and were both female.  After a couple parts runs, all worked fine.

The other issue I ran into was that my original location of the pickup was in the rear center of the tank.  Since the Mat usually has a centrally located pickup, I had to change the location of the pickup line and fuel pump. That was as easy as cutting a hole for the fuel pump in the correct place in the foam.  That held it in place fine.

I've put it into my previous tank and the second time around was just as easy.

 

The benefit depends on how much fuel you're leaving in your tank when you start to sputter and how close you are to 2 hours.

I initially had a surge tank inside the cell and could go 1:40. The last race I ran with the surge tank I was able to run an additional 7 minutes after the first sputter. (By dropping my lap times by 15 seconds a lap so the slosh wasn't as bad. We were up by 3 laps on the next place behind us with 7 minutes left in the race.  I told my driver to stay out and nurse it as long as possible hoping it would last.)

I did a capacity test (by removing the fuel line at the engine and draining into a fuel can) with the surge tank and it was almost exactly 17.5 gallons at the first sputter. 

After cracking open the cell and pulling out the foam, surge tank and fuel pump, I still had over an inch of fuel in the cell.  after syphoning it out, I had over 2 gallons left.

After installing the HydraMat, I was surprised when I filled up all 4 of my 5 gallon tanks and it was still going.  When I started filling my 5th tank, it took 1/10 of a gallon, sputtered and then instantly went dry. So, capacity increased from 17.5 to 20.1 gallons.

The only drawback to the hydramat is that it gives you zero warning.  If there is any fuel in the tank, it runs.  Once it's gone, it's gone and you won't make it around another 1/2 lap.

One other thing, you don't need a mat that covers the entire bottom of the tank.

My tank was 15"x22" and I bought a 15x15 mat.  I talked to the Holley rep and he said some guys were using the 12x12 in an evo and were fine.  I decided I wanted to guarantee full pickup for acceleration and braking so I figured I'd go with the 15x15. that gives me full coverage front to back and only a couple inches gap on the sides. (the 15x22ish) were significantly more expensive.

Hope that all helps.

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1 minute ago, lenbo211 said:

Its amazingly easy.  I'd never opened up a tank before attempting this.

...

Hope that all helps.

 

 

Thanks man, great info. Thanks for sharing.  :)

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On ‎3‎/‎7‎/‎2016 at 0:33 PM, PNWZR1 said:

 

They were a factory option.

 

3 way adjustable.

You just love to stir the pot don't you.  Crazy 'Vette guys.

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2 hours ago, lenbo211 said:

You just love to stir the pot don't you.  Crazy 'Vette guys.

 

Got to have fun.

 

Speaking of fun, at the Amelia Island Concours and peeled away the cover slightly on the new Ford GT.

 

2rpw8pv.jpg

 

1zfnbj8.jpg

 

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5 hours ago, lenbo211 said:

You just love to stir the pot don't you.  Crazy 'Vette guys.

 Had a daily driver Achieva SCX, with push button adjustable shocks,  back in the day.

 

If I find another the Hacker Express may be reincarnated.

 

90FH-03.jpg

 

Built around 1200 in '92 so they are chump legal. Only a bit over 500 '93's, to be legal for showroom stock.

 

A single shock for that thing was over $250 back in '95. Dealer cost. Don't recall retail. Struts were way up there.... Likely unobtanium today.

 

Thing had two sway bars on the rear axle from the factory. Found that interesting.

 

And speaking of the rear axle; The SCX's had the same rear axle as a Beretta GT. Much wider than a pedestrian Achieva, Grand Am, etc. Was pretty noticeable

 

Love my V8's, but that was a fun car.

 

edit-Note the inside rear getting light. I had to pull the ABS fuse after nearly anti locking into the weeds several times. Only had two channel ABS...

 

Worst car i have ever driven in the snow as well. And that includes Camaros.

Edited by Bandit
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Been a while since I posted up in here. Not all of this happen today but I have pictures.

 

Trans was sent out to be looked at. Had a bunch of parts that were found that had had better days and came back with new parts in those locations.

Spare motor was sent out to be cleaned up. Got some new rings and pistons. Put a new cam in it hoping that will solve our power issue.

Got some brake cooling scoops on their way.

Once we get everything put back together we are going to cut some springs to adjust some ride height, clean up some areo wise, get it aligned and shine it up a bit for the year to come.

2.5 months to Watkins Glen and we can't wait.

 

Pictures of the motor nearly ready for the trans to be bolted back on and put back in the car. The plastic bag was to keep whatever crap was in the thermostat housing from getting on the clutch.

 

IMG_0094.JPG

IMG_0095.JPG

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6 hours ago, RedShoeRacing said:

Been a while since I posted up in here. Not all of this happen today but I have pictures.

 

Trans was sent out to be looked at. Had a bunch of parts that were found that had had better days and came back with new parts in those locations.

Spare motor was sent out to be cleaned up. Got some new rings and pistons. Put a new cam in it hoping that will solve our power issue.

Got some brake cooling scoops on their way.

Once we get everything put back together we are going to cut some springs to adjust some ride height, clean up some areo wise, get it aligned and shine it up a bit for the year to come.

2.5 months to Watkins Glen and we can't wait.

 

Pictures of the motor nearly ready for the trans to be bolted back on and put back in the car. The plastic bag was to keep whatever crap was in the thermostat housing from getting on the clutch.

 

IMG_0094.JPG

IMG_0095.JPG

Blue garage walls... it seems to work for you.... I'm impressed. ..

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That's not RSR HQ. Our third driver has a heated garage, which in Michigan is well worth a 20 minute drive from the HQ in the dark months. Not sure what's up with the blue, never really asked.

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