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Bremsen last won the day on November 12 2018

Bremsen had the most liked content!

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    Denver, NC

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  1. My personal opinion is that, outside of evasive maneuvers, if you attempt to pass someone off the paved racing surface then any/all damage that occurs as a result is 100% your fault.
  2. The two times we lost engines during a race, a WP sensor/light likely would have saved both. First was a thrown belt, the second was a bad/old cap that gave out. We have always had a temp gauge, but its easy to forget it for a couple laps in the heat of battle. In addition to the WP and temp lights, I've also capped the vent and installed a barb on the expansion tank to run small hose up to the windshield.
  3. Longacre sells both a WP sender and kit with light. 3psi.
  4. We all walk around with lithium batteries all day every day. And LiFePos are much more stable than whats in your iphone or laptop. Overcharging (high volts) and puncture are the two main concerns with LiFePo batteries or any batteries for that matter. Get a proper charger and make sure its secure and protected in an accident. It negates some of my weight savings, but this is my battery box: https://www.sportsmansguide.com/product/index/us-military-surplus-waterproof-m2a1-50-caliber-ammo-can-used?a=1586610
  5. yup. Check amazon though, I think its about few $$ cheaper (I paid full retail). Mine came with a harness/reset button and hardware. Yeah, mine came with the harness to charge/reset it as well as the terminal hardware. Might try calling them, maybe they'll send some to you FOC.
  6. Just bought a Battery Tender LiFePo to replace another older LiFePo I killed. No complaints yet. Neat little BMS that cuts the battery off before voltage gets too low (what kills LiFePo batteries especially) so we'll see how long it lasts. <$200 for the 300cca version (easily turns over our 3.0L). Its weighs almost nothing.
  7. We have 2 kits and swap completely between stops, at least the 1 time we've gotten to use it. I plan to get some insulation for the hose like you find on the coolshirt lines. Sucking 120°+ water for the first few pulls isn't pleasant. Guess you could "backflow" (aka backwash, lol) the water, but I think some insulation will make a huge difference. I might switch to a growler size vacuum insulated bottle. Monoprice has one that's cheap, doubles the capacity and just barely fits in the cage (may have to replace the screws).
  8. Taillight panel mocked up. Should be coming back to me today so we can install the new taillights, mount filler cap and finish plumbing/wiring the fuel system.
  9. Ram mounts. https://www.rammount.com/shop-all/top-solutions/camera-mounts
  10. Last week: Installed the new Battery Tender LiFePo battery. Mounted all fuel system parts and made up some new AN fuel lines. Got the car worthy enough to drive on to the trailer to deliver to someone with better fab skills/tools than I have. New front [removable] core support installed. Old one was mangled from a front collision and beat back in place with a 10lb sledge, so we cut it out to allow the engine/trans to be removed/installed easier. New one can be unbolted. Windshield removed and front cage-strut bars being welded in. Fuel cell bulkhead box and new rear taillight panel also being fabbed up. On the driver comfort/cosmetic side, the new gauge pod is coming together nicely (staying analog for now). Adding dummy lights for OP, WP, WT and fuel. Starting to work on a new switch panel as well. Both are the only two things left from the old citrus version of the car (and looked like it). 2-day track day/shake down at VIR planned for the end of the month. Fingers crossed we can have it ready.
  11. At least we're not alone. https://www.businessinsider.com/the-midtown-uniform-is-now-in-peril-as-patagonia-isnt-accepting-new-finance-clients-for-its-ubiquitous-fleece-vests-2019-4
  12. Finally getting through the fuel cell project. Welded in the new filler neck, bolted down the surge tank and lift pumps and made up and installed the new fuel lines. Also installed the new LiFePo battery. Tonight, after a quick systems check, it goes on a trailer up to the fab shop to have some repairs made and chassis improvements added.
  13. Technically, you only have 1 crack. The rest of that is what we call surface crazing and its caused by the surface layer of iron cooling more rapidly than the underlying material. They do eventually grow large enough to catch a fingernail or lead out to an edge and its at that point you should replace them. The rest of the rotor looks a bit worn, but nothing too dramatic. I do think its interesting that the inside of the disc has less crazing than the outside. That tells me your cooling is working, but the outside of the disc is still getting pretty hot. You might benefit from a hose ducted into the center, but I would stop short of using a sealing plate. Heat cycling (or cryo'ing) them will also probably extend their life. You're using Wilwood calipers? Is the pad shape available in a taller radial depth? I think getting a proper depth pad will spread the heat better across the face and prevent cracking like this in the future.
  14. It doesn't take much if they're blowing cool air onto a hot disc face, which I see all too often on homebrew cooling setups. Or if they're running a 50mm depth pad on a 70mm depth disc face by using an aftermarket (or other ymm caliper) on an OE style disc. Just some things to look out for/consider when setting up a brake system is my point. Friction coefficients of racing pads have gotten significantly higher in recent years and tires are much stickier. On top of that, the aero we now see is much better (actually functional) and cars are getting more powerful/faster. Combine all of that with inefficient pillar/straight vane OE discs with narrow air gaps and it translates to some pretty significant brake heat. YMMV.
  15. @thewheelerZ Do you have ducting? If so, can you describe or snap a photo? I really liked what @Black Magic said in his video about what to do with brake cooling, but I was disappointed he didn't mention some things not to do. High temperatures typically don't crack discs, large temperature differentials are what crack discs. The one thing I see most often that you never want to run a hose to the inside disc face. Cooling the inside face will cause that side of the disc to run significantly colder than the other which will lead to a coned and possibly cracked disc. Also, when cobbling [err engineering] a brake setup like many of us do for this series, try to make sure the pads cover the entire friction face of the disc. When a pad doesn't cover the entire face, you automatically create a cold area which can lead to cracking. You want to the iron temperatures to be as even as possible. Also, never go out and start hammering on the brakes when they're cold. Its important to bring the disc up to temperature gradually and evenly to avoid shocking it (which can crack/explode the disc). Lastly, try to avoid large temperature deltas when using brake cooling. Some tracks might need all the cooling, while others might cool the disc and pads too much between brake events. This can also affect various pad compounds and cause uneven transfer. A place like VIR-full or Road Atlanta doesn't need nearly as much cooling as Sebring, WGI, Laguna, etc. When there are long periods between brake events, retaining some heat in the brakes is beneficial. I'm not always a proponent of sealing plates with single 3" hoses attached. It definitely depends on the efficiency of the disc, but for most I think simply running some air from the front of the car in behind the wheel and directing at the brakes/hubs in a general way is overall the best way to keep the brakes cool. You see this setup on a lot of modern sports cars with deflectors attached to the control arms (C7s, 911s, etc). Doing this provides the disc with fresh/cool air to pull from, without limiting volume, as well as cooling the caliper, but its not so direct it causes large temperature differential or delta issues. It also might allow a much larger duct to be run from the front of the car since you don't have to be concerned with running the hose out to the brake disc. My duct setup is going to be just a large house gutter downspout with a curve at the end. Some really good advice here. I agree that ball joints and other steering, suspension and wheel/tire issues are often mistaken for brake judder. This is my life. Last one turned out to be driveshaft balance. 😑 You will almost always be able to see uneven transfer because the disc will look very splotchy.
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