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Bremsen last won the day on October 28 2019

Bremsen had the most liked content!

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    Denver, NC

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  1. The cowl area at the front of the windscreen is actually a high pressure area (cowl induction). Best to seal that area off as best you can to force the air up and over the car.
  2. I guess your FB is more descriptive than mine: $850 About This Vehicle Driven 450,000 miles Manual transmission Exterior color: White · Interior color: Brown
  3. I think its an E 2.3 which would indicate the gasser to me. Ad says E and description says D and makes no mention of diesel. I know they brought manual 190Es to the states, I think up to 86 or maybe a bit later, as my dad owned one when I was a kid (wish he never sold it). Not sure about manual diesels and can't say I've ever seen or heard of one.
  4. Not my ad, but thought there might be someone here interested Rare manual. If I was in the market for another project I'd probably snag this up. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/277795093630671/
  5. I was pretty aggressive with base timing and made the comment that I thought it was probably a contributor. Never got any knock, but I was 2-3* higher than I probably should have been. Even brought the timing light in case we got knock. Should have backed it down anyway. New HG ordered.
  6. Yeh, thats why I wasn't concerned with seeing 210-215ish. My only guess at this point is bolt stretch. We replaced all of the head bolts when we assembled it, but had not gone back and retorqued them yet. It didn't have a ton of hours on it yet (probably <10hrs total), but most were at lower RPM. This was the first day we spent any significant time at redline.
  7. Tim, I kept looking for a white RX-7. Totally forgot you had a red E30. Wish I had more time to walk around and meet more folks. Had a decent day, unfortunately we left around 3:30 with our heads low (blown HG). Have to pull our entry at CMS, the date change was questionable and we were hopeful, but that was contingent on no major changes after this weekend. Looking at the fall events, probably going to shoot for Barber. Thanks to Darrin and Drew for putting it together on short notice.
  8. Took it down to CMP for a 2nd shakedown day. Had my first spin at the kink on the back straight, my brother did as well. Don't think either of us want to do that again. We'll be looking into some additional rear downforce. Got the tablet/harry's lap timer, coolsuit and the go pro tested/working. Having some issues with upshifts, but I think its likely air in the system or not quite enough travel due to the clutch stop. Didn't seem to have the same issue on downshifts, but I'll have to look at the other driver's stints. Low fuel light did not work and got stuck on most of the day. My dad seems to think its caused by turbulence in the surge. I'm going to try the sensor Huggy posted with the buna float to see if it works better. Engine was running warmer than last time, hovering around 200-210*F for most of the day. We were a bit concerned but it didn't climb over that and was running well so we chalked it up to ambient/track temps. During my brother's last stint the engine sputtered as he accelerated out of T1 and continued intermittently through the rest of the lap. Brought it into the paddock and the water was boiling in the expansion tank. Barb fitting on the tank to spit water on the windshield was too high, so I'll need to lower it. Compression test confirmed #4 cylinder lost compression. 2 steps forward, 1 step back.
  9. Finishing up some last minute things to prep for this weekend's track day. Got a new tablet mount from Ram and made sure the GPS receiver and Harry's app are working correctly. Tidied up some more wiring and confirmed the USB hub blew up when the wires got crossed. Light was on, but nobody was home. Need to swap it out for the backup. Got the rebuilt coolsuit cooler finished up and functioning. Going to finally get around to painting the mount frame and fab a couple new straps for it. Installed the fancy go-pedal cover I've had lying around for the last 2 years. Hopefully it will help some of my drivers with HnT. Ran the hose from the expansion tank to the windshield as a 4th redundant indicator of overheating (gauge, temp light, pressure light and hose). No excuses. Installed a couple rivnuts to help secure the rear bumper cover. Looking forward to a test day without being as concerned with the mechanicals.
  10. Here you go @Bill Strong https://www.carolinamotorsportspark.com/blog/reopening-phase-2-covid-19-guidelines-and-procedures Also should point out that if anyone is looking for comparative lap times, this will likely be the last chance at driving the track before re-paving.
  11. In a missing pulse. Brother had the new tach cylinder selector switch set incorrectly. We ran an entire test day and probably never got over 5000rpms, lol.
  12. My brother had a heat blister on his right heal the size of a golf ball after one of our earlier races; before we put in a foot plate and added some thermal barrier to the tunnel. I kinda felt bad about that one. Last week I found 2000 extra rpm. Kinda felt like finding a $100 bill in a pants pocket.
  13. Ahh, memories. Those sprint races wore me out. It was like a glorified auto-x. Only time I've ever regretted removing the PS from our car. Unfortunately we had electrical issues for the night portion and barely turned any laps. We did get a spirit award; I think the staff felt bad for us after I came back into the garage for the umpteenth time around midnight (we spent hours trying to figure it out), got out of the car and proceeded to kick the drivers door in while screaming profanities, lol. I was soo mad. Charlotte is my nemesis.
  14. Nice build Max! I can tell you take a lot of pride in your work. 2700 seems a bit heavy for a slicktop 200sx, but I see you still have all the glass and pop-up headlights. I think the 300zx headlight assemblies weighed something like 20lbs per side. Brakes- I'm going to differ from the prevailing thoughts here on the Nissan/Akebono vs Wilwood calipers. We never had any major issues running the Z32s. I only switched because I wanted the larger Z33 disc/caliper for the bigger pads and a bit more front brake bias. Not sure I needed the extra mass, but everything has a trade off. Have to run 17s as well I still have the old set of z32 calipers we ran (the narrow 90 Z32 set that isn't as popular) and I'd sell them pretty cheap if you're interested. I'll even throw in a used (but still good) set of Z31 Turbo front discs if you pay the extra shipping just to get them out of my garage. Also, I would recommend starting with the same compound front/rear (or as close as possible), if available. That will give you a better idea of the natural brake bias of the car at the limit in race trim. The object is to make each corner do maximum work, so if the car is balanced with the same friction f/r and you run a higher friction front pad anyway, your only making the front brakes to more than their share of the work, increasing heat and wear on the front brakes. There are cases where it makes sense to run a higher friction rear pad. Wheels- If you're stuck on 16s due to LDR rules, also look into 90s Ford/Merc crown vic mesh wheels (16x7, lower ET). 1998+ Mustang V6s also have some 16x7" options iirc. I don't know on the 200sx, but I was able to use ARP Camaro/Vette studs pressed in the 300z hubs. The knurled end difference was nominal (slightly larger) so they pressed in easily and they're about the cheapest ARP wheel studs available. It also got us away from the more expensive fine thread that Nissan uses and into the same thread/pitch as the GM cars and BMWs. One of my favorite mods. Engine-The SOHC VG30 really wakes up with a cam/tune so don't feel like a DOHC or LS swap is necessary. Isky regrinds VG30e cams for $200/set and I'm fairly certain you can get Nistune for your ECU to tune it.
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