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Bremsen

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Bremsen last won the day on November 12 2018

Bremsen had the most liked content!

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    http://www.essexparts.com

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    Denver, NC

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  1. Taillight panel mocked up. Should be coming back to me today so we can install the new taillights, mount filler cap and finish plumbing/wiring the fuel system.
  2. Ram mounts. https://www.rammount.com/shop-all/top-solutions/camera-mounts
  3. Last week: Installed the new Battery Tender LiFePo battery. Mounted all fuel system parts and made up some new AN fuel lines. Got the car worthy enough to drive on to the trailer to deliver to someone with better fab skills/tools than I have. New front [removable] core support installed. Old one was mangled from a front collision and beat back in place with a 10lb sledge, so we cut it out to allow the engine/trans to be removed/installed easier. New one can be unbolted. Windshield removed and front cage-strut bars being welded in. Fuel cell bulkhead box and new rear taillight panel also being fabbed up. On the driver comfort/cosmetic side, the new gauge pod is coming together nicely (staying analog for now). Adding dummy lights for OP, WP, WT and fuel. Starting to work on a new switch panel as well. Both are the only two things left from the old citrus version of the car (and looked like it). 2-day track day/shake down at VIR planned for the end of the month. Fingers crossed we can have it ready.
  4. At least we're not alone. https://www.businessinsider.com/the-midtown-uniform-is-now-in-peril-as-patagonia-isnt-accepting-new-finance-clients-for-its-ubiquitous-fleece-vests-2019-4
  5. Finally getting through the fuel cell project. Welded in the new filler neck, bolted down the surge tank and lift pumps and made up and installed the new fuel lines. Also installed the new LiFePo battery. Tonight, after a quick systems check, it goes on a trailer up to the fab shop to have some repairs made and chassis improvements added.
  6. Technically, you only have 1 crack. The rest of that is what we call surface crazing and its caused by the surface layer of iron cooling more rapidly than the underlying material. They do eventually grow large enough to catch a fingernail or lead out to an edge and its at that point you should replace them. The rest of the rotor looks a bit worn, but nothing too dramatic. I do think its interesting that the inside of the disc has less crazing than the outside. That tells me your cooling is working, but the outside of the disc is still getting pretty hot. You might benefit from a hose ducted into the center, but I would stop short of using a sealing plate. Heat cycling (or cryo'ing) them will also probably extend their life. You're using Wilwood calipers? Is the pad shape available in a taller radial depth? I think getting a proper depth pad will spread the heat better across the face and prevent cracking like this in the future.
  7. It doesn't take much if they're blowing cool air onto a hot disc face, which I see all too often on homebrew cooling setups. Or if they're running a 50mm depth pad on a 70mm depth disc face by using an aftermarket (or other ymm caliper) on an OE style disc. Just some things to look out for/consider when setting up a brake system is my point. Friction coefficients of racing pads have gotten significantly higher in recent years and tires are much stickier. On top of that, the aero we now see is much better (actually functional) and cars are getting more powerful/faster. Combine all of that with inefficient pillar/straight vane OE discs with narrow air gaps and it translates to some pretty significant brake heat. YMMV.
  8. @thewheelerZ Do you have ducting? If so, can you describe or snap a photo? I really liked what @Black Magic said in his video about what to do with brake cooling, but I was disappointed he didn't mention some things not to do. High temperatures typically don't crack discs, large temperature differentials are what crack discs. The one thing I see most often that you never want to run a hose to the inside disc face. Cooling the inside face will cause that side of the disc to run significantly colder than the other which will lead to a coned and possibly cracked disc. Also, when cobbling [err engineering] a brake setup like many of us do for this series, try to make sure the pads cover the entire friction face of the disc. When a pad doesn't cover the entire face, you automatically create a cold area which can lead to cracking. You want to the iron temperatures to be as even as possible. Also, never go out and start hammering on the brakes when they're cold. Its important to bring the disc up to temperature gradually and evenly to avoid shocking it (which can crack/explode the disc). Lastly, try to avoid large temperature deltas when using brake cooling. Some tracks might need all the cooling, while others might cool the disc and pads too much between brake events. This can also affect various pad compounds and cause uneven transfer. A place like VIR-full or Road Atlanta doesn't need nearly as much cooling as Sebring, WGI, Laguna, etc. When there are long periods between brake events, retaining some heat in the brakes is beneficial. I'm not always a proponent of sealing plates with single 3" hoses attached. It definitely depends on the efficiency of the disc, but for most I think simply running some air from the front of the car in behind the wheel and directing at the brakes/hubs in a general way is overall the best way to keep the brakes cool. You see this setup on a lot of modern sports cars with deflectors attached to the control arms (C7s, 911s, etc). Doing this provides the disc with fresh/cool air to pull from, without limiting volume, as well as cooling the caliper, but its not so direct it causes large temperature differential or delta issues. It also might allow a much larger duct to be run from the front of the car since you don't have to be concerned with running the hose out to the brake disc. My duct setup is going to be just a large house gutter downspout with a curve at the end. Some really good advice here. I agree that ball joints and other steering, suspension and wheel/tire issues are often mistaken for brake judder. This is my life. Last one turned out to be driveshaft balance. 😑 You will almost always be able to see uneven transfer because the disc will look very splotchy.
  9. Was gonna say there are systems out there that do that. But, more competition = better equipment at better prices so.....👍
  10. I'd rule out hub/disc issues if you weren't getting a long pedal/knockback. Brake judder is typically uneven transfer layer. It may be that you didn't have a good transfer layer or with some pads, when you get beyond their temperature threshold, they will deposit unevenly and cause the "warped rotor" feeling. Once its that bad, disc replacement is usually your only option. If everything is square (IE not hub/disc/caliper issues) I would replace the discs and pads, bed them in well and try to look at your cooling setup/options. Soft pedal is fluid boiling/air in the system. You might also be experiencing some caliper flex/clamshelling at high temps.
  11. @Bill Strong Is that a hard rule (ie going in the book) or are these will be tech'd for safety on a case-by-case basis? Running a strap should be a last minute fix for a poorly secured box. IMO, if the box is secured in the car properly hopefully we're not required to run an additional strap. Our first one broke loose from those stupid tabs in a side impact so we engineered a mount that will better handle a multiple G impact. Its similar to Huggies (although, not as pretty). Welded up a bolt-in steel frame thats bolted to the OE passenger seat holes, then ran thick steel straps up the side of the box. We ignored the little tabs on the box and ran some threaded furniture feet through the side of the box, silicone sealed, and then affix the straps to the furniture feet. The entire cooler would have to fail (rip the sides off) for it to come loose in an accident.
  12. Racerender offers free and cheap software to overlay data onto your video, have multiple camera angles etc.
  13. You guys try disconnecting the rear sway? Hate to see what that thing handles like in the wet 😲
  14. Yeah, I know. Work has gotten crazy in the first quarter and I'm having to travel a lot. Just not enough time to finish the fuel system updates to meet the new rules.
  15. To me that makes more sense with limitations, of course. Otherwise, what about...... Why is it 10 points for both side skirts? Should be each. 10pts per dive plane? What about end plates, they're not necessary for a wing. 10pts per end plate? What about diffusers integrated into the splitter? Those 10pts each?
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