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Bremsen

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Bremsen last won the day on May 1 2016

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  1. Bremsen

    ABS Stand Alone Points Value

    I of ALL people on this forum would never make such a claim, lol. Sure, if those Speed6 calipers can be bought for <$somedecidedamount then anyone can install them on whatever car they want. It doesn't matter if its a cobra or miata and nobody needs to bring a calculator to impound. You get to buy whatever works best for your chassis for <$somedecidedamount and we're all subject to the same cost. I don't agree that you can't control costs on specific components. Sanctioning bodies have been doing this for decades. I really have no dog in this fight. I run a Nissan who have been using aluminum 4-piston calipers on their sports cars since the early 90s with no change in bolt spacing...and they all fall into the 2x rule. I just think the 2x rule unfairly penalizes certain cars. Or, you know, we could go the other way and just let brakes be open.
  2. Bremsen

    ABS Stand Alone Points Value

    No, I'm assuming that anyone/everyone would have the same opportunity to buy a good $200 caliper whether their OE ones were $40 or $400. Wilwood forged superlite calipers are <$200. I can buy knockoff Brembo 4pots for $150-ish w/o a core. My point being that nothing should be based on the OE cost of any part because they can [usually] vary greatly depending on the production numbers, age of the car, aftermarket support, etc. IMO, if a sanctioning body wants to control costs, the right way to do it is with cost caps.
  3. Bremsen

    ABS Stand Alone Points Value

    But that's WHY you cost cap. I would suggest something like max retail cost per caliper $200. Max retail cost per disc $100. etc.
  4. Bremsen

    ABS Stand Alone Points Value

    I agree with you on the 2x rule being a relic and just a silly way to make a rule in general. But, I think there are some things that should be upgraded for our series (brakes being one of them). Those components simply should have a cost cap so that every car, regardless of age or country of origin, has the same upgrade "opportunity".
  5. Bremsen

    Cool Shirt Cooler DIY

    Don't see why not. Be sure to post up the DIY, I'm really interested in building one for our pits next season.
  6. Paint and stickers are good for determining peak temps, but I feel you're far better off taking temps on pit road as an "average" temp and determining changes based on that. Longacre has a tire probe for like $150 and a brake probe attachment for an extra $100. That would be my best "bang for your buck" suggestion.
  7. It shouldn't matter for setting the "records". A single 10hr race would still be longer than any previous event on time and completing only 201laps at a 2.5mi course would likely set the record for distance since [I believe] 500miles is the longest distance event held there in its history. @~2min per lap (spec miata) and 2.5mi, if you just complete most of day one, you should have completed over 500mi there.
  8. Thats a whole lotta awesome. It truly is historic (I wonder if IMS even knows this). If the layout is similar length to the SCCA course, ~200 laps is all it will take to make the distance record (I say that like its easy ). CCES should make stickers: "Over 500mi @ Indy club".
  9. I like that stang. 400 ain't bad for a 240hp (underrated), 3k-ish car. I bet that car will easily put that to the wheels, if not more, once you remove all the smog stuff. Those cars still ran <14sec 1/4s if I remember. 15 gallons will be a big limiter for CCES, but with 17.5 available through cell/surge it should have decent legs. Certainly good for shorter/odd events. Cleaned/painted rear subframe, control arms and misc bits. Probably lost 5lbs in built up dirt/grease. Pressed new longer ARP studs into the rear hub flanges (b/c free spacers) then installed new rear wheel bearings/seals and the stub axles/companion flanges. Finished mock up/tacking of the new down pipe, hopefully start welding it up tonight.
  10. We're located north west of Charlotte.
  11. Bremsen

    More brake cooling questions...

    Just to clarify, groove/slot patterns are often run in reverse so you can't just go off them. The vanes between the disc faces are the crucial thing to look for in a directional disc and make sure they're run in the appropriate direction. That is what GM did, it wasn't just the grooves going backwards, the disc vanes were backwards too.
  12. Some interesting history thanks to the F1 broadcast. Indy is the second oldest purpose built racetrack in the world, and the oldest that is still hosting races. Only Brooklands in the UK is older and it hasn’t hosted a race since 1939. Monza is 2nd oldest. So there’s that.
  13. Bremsen

    More brake cooling questions...

    They don't work very well going backwards. Pad wear goes up pretty significantly. A reliable source told me this was caused by a RH disc on the LH side (see pros do stupid stuff too). Pads wore/fell out and well, he was just along for the ride. Pretty scary. I'm actually amazed the disc didn't explode from lack of cooling first. It had to be running at crazy high temps. https://www.autosport.com/nascar/news/137738/wallace-escapes-huge-impact-unhurt
  14. Bremsen

    More brake cooling questions...

    I could see that being the case. I don't deal with OE discs all that much so I don't have any experience on the varying stresses based on different offsets. That first pic was something I was going to mention because I see that area between the bell/friction face on several large OE discs recently where there is a thick curved area I assume to allow some additional radial expansion. As for the vanes, I don't know about thermal transfer differences/efficiencies of straight vs pillar and there doesn't seem to be much consensus from the OE mfg. I see both types pretty regularly. When you get up into higher end sports cars is where you start to see directional vanes which move much more air. In racing, all discs are directional, most are curved and the better discs now have a high number of thinner vanes to increase thermal transfer (more surface area) and provide better face support at extreme temps. As a side note, I think it was the C6Z06 vette, where GM spec'd a directional vane disc, but didn't produce a RH and LH, opting instead to simply put the disc on the other side going the wrong direction.
  15. Bremsen

    More brake cooling questions...

    To a certain extent, yes, but I think its more that you're creating the differential on the unsupported inside face. You kinda lost me on that second part with regards to size vs stress. You'd have to take the whole design of the disc into account. Vented/non, OD, face depth, wall thickness, air gap, vane design/count, etc. I've seen significant cracking and catastrophic failing of discs from a wide variety of design, installation and/or self-inflicted reasons over the years. Its not "often" thankfully, but the majority were attributed to some sort of temperature differential on the disc. The main things to strive for is nice/evenly distributed heat across the entire disc face, not placing material next to a face so that radiant heat is reflected back onto the face (inside/outside temp differential) and allowing/promoting the disc to pump air from the center to the OD. I have also been discussing ducting more recently with our engineers and brought up OE style (straight and/or pillar vane) discs. He seemed to think that creating some positive pressure at the ID would likely help those types of discs more so than our racing discs due to inefficiencies in the OE design. Basically, they don't pump as much air on their own. Guess I've added another thing to test.
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