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Bremsen

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Bremsen last won the day on November 12 2018

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    http://www.essexparts.com

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    Denver, NC

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  1. It's getting hard to find decent shocks that aren't adjustable for the Z31. Front B6 strut insert is still available, p/n 34-002643 and fits inside 2x. Looks like Bilstein discontinued the rear, but one of the mustang rear shocks can be used with a couple spacers on the lower shock mount. I'm not sure if its the rear fox or the rear SN95 that is longer, but you'll want the longer one. Tokico also offers their HP (blue) shocks, but the only source I know of for them (zstore) shows them as "temporarily unavailable". We blew out the HP front strut inserts pretty quickly (rear seems to be holding up). Thats pretty much it, or your stuck with a KYB or other box store replacement shock which won't last very long. *edit - looked it up, the Fox body (79-93) mustang rear shock is the one you'll want, 24-021487. Feel free to PM me if you have any specific questions. We've been racing this chassis for a while.
  2. *edit. I think this might be a case of too many "versions" of the VPI list online. This one still lists the VG30ET https://champcar.org/mainweb/pdf/VPITable2019Q4Early.pdf This one does not: https://champcar.org/mainweb/pdf/VPITable2019Q3Early.pdf All depends on which link you click.
  3. Fuel cell bulkhead finally nearing completion. Getting ready to pull engine/trans to fix oil leak on the back of the engine (not sure if its pan gasket or RMS). Prepping cowl/windshield area and engine bay for a quick coat of paint. Progress this weekend will determine if we want to sign up for Barber or wait for the 2020 season. In other news....CCES is killing me with VPIs. @Bill StrongNow the Turbo (VG30ET) model is BACK down to 425pts? What happened to 100pts above the NA car? I literally changed my entire build because I lost those 25pts with the last VPI change. 😤
  4. Yeh I know, I’ve seen some of your pics and swore it was a Nissan. It doesn’t stop there, firewall and engine bays are very similar looking too. Thanks @mcoppola. The rear one also doubles as a gusset to the frame corner. It’s solid to say the least.
  5. Here’s how I did our seat mount. I was wrong, it’s 1.25”, I think it was leftover scrap. We have a really short greenhouse and I’m over 6’ so I need to get the seat as low as possible. Also had to notch the tunnel.
  6. Although, the preferred way (safety-wise) is to tie it to the cage. Our seat shifted considerably when we had a minor accident into the tires and it was bolted to the floor with plates. My fear was that a significant rollover could possibly have caused the driver to come out of the belts if it was violent enough. Current chassis has 1" square tube seat frame welded to the lower main hoop x-bar and driver sill bar with a single inboard post/leg welded to the floor to support the 4th corner. Belts are also tied to the seat frame (not the floor).
  7. FIFY, lol. True, it is a gas and not "air" when brake fluid begins to vaporize. A couple things about brake failures/issues. A pedal that feels like a block of wood is pad fade. A pedal that feels like a sponge is fluid fade and/or gas/air in the system, a pedal that sinks to the floor indicates a leak in the system. The last two are often mistaken for each other since a pedal can get spongy enough that it goes to the floor. The test is to pump up and stand on the brake pedal, if it slowly sinks to the floor there is a leak somewhere in the system. If it doesn't, you need to bleed the system.
  8. We had hot fuel/vapor lock with the turbo setup and fuel cell. We did some rudimentary testing of the fuel temps and determined the engine bay caused most of the heat soak (not much temp difference between return temp at rail and return temp at cell), but we weren't at a hot race track (it was August and hot outside, but just sitting in my driveway). Anyway, we're no longer turbo'd, so I haven't put that much more thought into it. We've done a few things like move the fuel filter away from our exhaust manifold, put the OE shields back on and are sleeving some of the fuel lines, but guess I didn't think the track surface would radiate that much heat. Guess I'll have to keep an eye on it.
  9. My fluid of choice is Ferodo Super Formula, with AP Racing R3 as my #2. Disclaimer: I'm very biased b/c its the brands we sell (but I also get to see actual/independent test data and not just label claims). Anyway, flush once/year and bleed before each race. @mcoppola We recommend a quick bleed before an event on race cars/brake systems because the heat source is the back side of the caliper pistons. Fluid on the back side of the pistons can start to vaporize before reaching the boiling point of the fluid and those tiny air gas bubbles remain trapped in the caliper (even with good fluids) until bled out. There are tons of factors though...the caliper body material, the piston material/thickness, how thick are the pads, the pad friction coefficient, disc design, air flow, vehicle specs/speeds, etc, etc. Spending 15-30min bleeding the calipers out before a race/track day is cheap insurance for the primary safety system. Also, just because you open a bottle of fluid to use for bleeding doesn't mean the excess has to be discarded immediately. Brake fluids are hygroscopic, obviously, but its over a pretty significant time and level of exposure. It would take months of being open to the atmosphere in a humid environment to reach the moisture content needed to get the WBP of most fluids. I'll keep a used/closed bottle stored in a dry place around for several months and do a few bleeds before I discard it.
  10. My personal opinion is that, outside of evasive maneuvers, if you attempt to pass someone off the paved racing surface then any/all damage that occurs as a result is 100% your fault.
  11. The two times we lost engines during a race, a WP sensor/light likely would have saved both. First was a thrown belt, the second was a bad/old cap that gave out. We have always had a temp gauge, but its easy to forget it for a couple laps in the heat of battle. In addition to the WP and temp lights, I've also capped the vent and installed a barb on the expansion tank to run small hose up to the windshield.
  12. Longacre sells both a WP sender and kit with light. 3psi.
  13. We all walk around with lithium batteries all day every day. And LiFePos are much more stable than whats in your iphone or laptop. Overcharging (high volts) and puncture are the two main concerns with LiFePo batteries or any batteries for that matter. Get a proper charger and make sure its secure and protected in an accident. It negates some of my weight savings, but this is my battery box: https://www.sportsmansguide.com/product/index/us-military-surplus-waterproof-m2a1-50-caliber-ammo-can-used?a=1586610
  14. yup. Check amazon though, I think its about few $$ cheaper (I paid full retail). Mine came with a harness/reset button and hardware. Yeah, mine came with the harness to charge/reset it as well as the terminal hardware. Might try calling them, maybe they'll send some to you FOC.
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