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Bremsen last won the day on November 12 2018

Bremsen had the most liked content!

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    Denver, NC

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  1. Yeah, I know. Work has gotten crazy in the first quarter and I'm having to travel a lot. Just not enough time to finish the fuel system updates to meet the new rules.
  2. To me that makes more sense with limitations, of course. Otherwise, what about...... Why is it 10 points for both side skirts? Should be each. 10pts per dive plane? What about end plates, they're not necessary for a wing. 10pts per end plate? What about diffusers integrated into the splitter? Those 10pts each?
  3. Sorry Tyler, I totally forgot about this. I'll get them posted up this weekend for sure. I will not be entering the Charlotte race, but can get them to the track during the event.
  4. Again, so the front air dam/splitter combo made of roll plastic and plywood (<$100) is now 20 pts, but a big expensive aftermarket wing is still 10? Asking for a friend. Just curious, what was wrong with 10pts per aero device (front/under/rear)?
  5. They do, and they also provide much needed lubrication to the water pump as well as reduce cavitation at high rpm. I was mainly surprised that distilled water increases electrolysis of aluminum parts because I was always taught to ONLY use distilled water in cooling systems.
  6. Thought this was relevant to us since we don't run coolant and most of us have at least some aluminum engine components. Coolant ChroniclesWhat you pour into a radiator is also an important decision if you want to protect all those expensive aluminum engine components. Straight water is the most thermally efficient coolant, but anticorrosion issues and cold weather demand antifreeze. According to Jay Ross at Applied Chemical Specialties, the best water to use is soft water. Distilled water is not a good idea because distillation strips ions from the water. When it is introduced into the cooling system, the natural chemical-balance process will pull the ions from light metals such as aluminum or magnesium that are exposed to the water. This ion transfer greatly enhances the corrosion process called electrolysis. Soft water is treated with sodium chloride that replaces the lost ions and minimizes the electrolysis process. If soft water is not available, then bottled water or tap water is the next best solution. If you insist on distilled water, Ross says mixing it 50/50 with antifreeze will pull ions from the antifreeze rather than from your cooling system itself.
  7. So, let me get this straight. $40 worth of plastic and plywood is 20 points. And a $500+ wind tunnel tested aerofoil is 10 points?
  8. Box cutter with a new blade works as well. Watch those digits though.
  9. Can someone explain the purpose of those, particularly when using a halo style seat? Are they for debris? Appendage/head control?
  10. Gonna agree with lucky on this one. He did miss the waving yellow at the bottom of the hill (likely fixated on the miata), but did not complete the pass around the outside before noticing him waving on the next straight. I don't see any yellows again until the double entering Oak Tree. Does everyone get one this "flagtronics" thing now (sorry, its been a couple years)? Is that the small display on his dash bar?
  11. We use a regular telescoping paint pole found at Lowes/HD/etc. Its about 5' when not in use and about 9' extended.
  12. I have a setup that uses both the flapper vent and catch can from a latemodel stock car. This is the vent that section is referring, and similar to the one on my car: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CV-Products-Billet-Aluminum-Fuel-Cell-Vent-Overflow-Check-Flapper-Valve-E1/192699001428?hash=item2cddc16a54:g:8RAAAOSwPCVX4UQ7&amp;frcectupt=true It uses a catch can with a probe to open the flapper when fueling. Like this: https://tinyurl.com/y3r22uc5 My main confusion is the 3/4" tube statement, since all of the standard NASCAR vent stuff is 1.5"OD. I'm going to machine a spacer to place in the vent hose to limit the ID to 3/4", which I hope will satisfy the rules lawyers. Other than that, I love the setup. Its simple and effective and we never spill a drop.
  13. Started work on the fuel cell bulkhead 😑. Removed the fuel cell/pump and mocked up the bulkhead "box" that will sit on top. Spent some time with a cutoff wheel and sawzall on the back of the car. Came up with some good solutions to the taillights and rear panel to make things easier to fab. It looks like we might actually lose a few lbs in the process so I guess this exercise is not a complete waste of time/resources. Still not sure about making the Charlotte race.
  14. Loaded it onto the trailer and took it up the road for its first ever dyno tune yesterday. It went really well (no wrenching needed) and the car performed pretty much as expected. Nice to put it through its paces on the rollers too and get a few 125mph runs through the (all NTU) drive train. Now that we know its running/driving well, we can yank the fuel system and engine/trans out to meet the current bulkhead rules and fix a leak at the back of the engine.
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