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Bremsen

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Bremsen last won the day on May 1 2016

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    http://www.essexparts.com

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    Denver, NC

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  1. And it definitely has pins on the cams to locate the sprockets. 🙂
  2. Bremsen

    Lights

  3. Good news: 10 weeks later...engine/trans are finally back in the car. Bad news: After this weekend, I'm home for a grand total of 5 days over the next 3 weeks so I won't get a lot of time to work on the race car.
  4. Its not a polyalkalene glycol based fluid. Fine if you flush, but you shouldn't top off SRF with other fluids or vice versa. Been working on a lot of Porsche brakes recently so I've had a lot of talk about SRF. Since it was brought up I figured I would mention it. No work this weekend b/c I was out of town. Engine/trans going in this week, but lots of things needed before we can fire it up. New goal is to have the car ready to shakedown at the VIR test day in August but I'm concerned even that might be optimistic since I'm out of town for most of the next month.
  5. Basically a decent OE fluid is my thought. 509 is pretty low for a DBP so I'd guess they sacrificed DBP for lower water absorbtion, better vapor resistance and viscosity. LMK if you're interested in trying something else. Curious, have you tried any of the other high end racing fluids? AP R3/4, LCF, RBF660, etc? I know you guys have been on SRF forever, we've tried 😉. I'd be curious if you could feel a difference in pedal feel against the SRF. Compressibility with SRF isn't as good according to the tests I've seen, but that characteristic might be muted with a slider. I've never used SRF personally (too much $$$) and the WBP is an advantage for those that leave their systems capped for years, but its really irrelevant for anyone that bleeds often and flushes annually. BTW guys, NEVER mix SRF with other brake fluids. Bad JuJu.
  6. I only put good modern racing fluid (Ferodo Super Formula to be specific) in the system. I've felt the difference and its noticeable. Personally, I never understood the desire to put whatever is "good enough" in the brake system, especially when a bottle of good fluid is only like $25. I do run aluminum calipers. And, IMO, SRF is mostly for guys that only want to bleed their system annually or bi-annually (or they're Porsche owners, lol) since its less hygroscopic than other DOT3/4 fluids and has a high wet boiling point. For racers like us who maintain their fluid regularly, a good quality racing DOT4 fluid has less compressibility, better viscosity and (if you're running a good 600+ fluid) better dry boiling points.
  7. Flywheel and clutch bolted onto engine. Shift lever, release bearing and fork cleaned/greased/installed on transmission. Transmission bolted to engine. Probably end up getting impatient and shove it back in the car tonight by myself.
  8. Engine [mostly] assembled and pulled off the stand. Installed flywheel and clutch. Noticed transmission had a bad input shaft bearing so I wrestled it out from under the car. Grabbed the (what I'm assuming is a) good spare transmission from storage and spent a couple hours cleaning 30 years of dirt and grime off it. Then I took a shower because I was covered in the 30 y/o dirt and grime.
  9. Hmm...guess I'll have to inspect mine when I open it up next time. Drilled out 3 studs from OE manifold-DP flange. Thanks Nissan for using bolts/studs with a steel-butter alloy, I'm getting so much practice drilling broken bolts/studs out. Started cleaning up/porting the lower intake manifold runners to remove all the rough texture and casting flash. Brother came over and got the rear subframe ready to drop to replace diff/axles.
  10. Bremsen

    Cool Shirt Cooler DIY

    @Jab31169, I was surprised that the plastic didn't really effect the transfer that much. The bottles would typically get partially submerged making the ice inside no different than being out of the bottle. But, I was looking at buying some of these just to make things easier/simpler: https://www.uline.com/BL_8185/Natural-Round-Wide-Mouth-Jars $30 for 24 of the 32oz wide mouth bottles that you can reuse indefinitely. Although I haven't tried it yet, I've heard of guys using dry ice in their coolers for these blocks which will keep them frozen (at much lower temps than a typical freezer) and even re-freeze bottles at the track as long as the cooler isn't opened often.
  11. Bremsen

    Cool Shirt Cooler DIY

    In my experience, you can build a nice cooler pretty easily, but you'll want to buy the shirt(s). Engel makes the coolers that Coolsuit uses and the 19qt can be bought for ~$50. Then its just a cheap bilge pump, some fittings and tubing (all Mcmaster-Carr stuff). The real trick to long lasting cooling is to use blocks of ice, not small cubes that melt quickly. We freeze lots of 20-64oz plastic bottles before the race and simply drop them in with the cap off (we do start with some regular ice/water mix). With the bottles, when its time to swap them out you just submerge the bottle to fill with water and remove before dropping in a fresh one. The last summer event we only had to swap bottles out every other stint, and there was typically still ice in them. I think if we had a livewell timer to cycle the pump we might have been able to go 3 stints. And I 100% agree with @Huggy , those plastic side strap things are not strong enough to hold the cooler safely. Ours broke free and destroyed itself in a side impact. Luckily it didn't hit/hurt the driver. We fabbed a similar mounting system to Huggy's for our custom cooler.
  12. With Mom's weekend I didn't get a whole lot accomplished, but I did get a few hours in on Friday night. Installed the cams and torqued the heads down. Rear cam plate, cam gears and timing belt installed/set. Sorted/labelled our injector stash by impedance and sent a set that I don't know the history off to a local place for a cleaning/flow test.
  13. Bremsen

    Learn me on Fuel Vent Valves Plz

    Those aren't hermetically sealed so the cell can still vent to atmosphere preventing any pressure/vacuum build up.
  14. Got the assembled short block back to the house last week. Installed oil pump/pickup, pan, front/rear seals, water pump and timing studs. After some discussion we decided, due to family obligations that have popped up recently and our current state of progress, that NCM is not achievable. Sent the withdrawl email to staff. Racing in 2018 not looking very promising. 😢
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