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Bremsen last won the day on October 28 2019

Bremsen had the most liked content!

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    Denver, NC

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  1. OK, now that you explain it as resistors in series, I understand better what you are referring to. Appreciate you taking the time @Huggy to lay it out.
  2. I went ahead and installed it square, but just for the sake of discussion and understanding..... Here is the kit I used. As you can see, its 3 grid lines in a pass and 4 passes. If I understand correctly, the buss bars should equalize the current between the individual lines across each pass, so installing in a trapezoid arrangement really just makes the overall length longer. Am I mistaken?
  3. I went searching their FAQ and came across this response regarding the rectangle/trapezoidal arrangement: "Clear View defrosters can be applied to windows that are typically larger on the bottom. The side buss bars can be angled to accommodate the glass shape. It is a good idea to keep this difference between the top and bottom width as small as possible since the electrical resistance will be more the longer the grids which will effect the temperatures of the longer grids which will be slightly lower. ". Looking at how these things work, I have three grid lines that criss-cross the windshield 4 times. Due to the buss bars, each set of lines equalize resistance so its just a matter of trying to keep the overall length as short as possible to lower resistance/increase the heat. Installing the buss bars so its more trapezoidal just makes the overall length of the grid slightly longer, lowering the max temp. At least, that's how I'm understanding this. Am I wrong? If I'm correct, then if you are already pushing the max width you're better off making it square. If you installing on the short end of the range, then installing trapezoidal shouldn't effect the results much.
  4. Remember, the current "look" isn't really what the final look will be. The mfg are still finalizing the body designs in the wind tunnel. I think the car looks like its wearing a suit 2 sizes too big. I'm expecting the car to land somewhere between the current NASCAR and an Aussie V8 supercar. I can't get specific, but the selected parts suppliers so far are basically the whos-who of high-end motorsports manufacturers. I'm a huge Aussie V8 fan and have been saying they need to follow suit for years. I think its great and hopefully the shot of adrenaline NASCAR has needed for about a decade (or more). I expect to see several more road races on the calendar and maybe even some dual event oval/roval weekends (at least I think they should).
  5. @Team Infiniti I was just curious if Huggy had installed on lexan before. From what I understand, lexan should fog up less because its a better insulator than glass. Along that same thinking, the defrost should be more efficient and required to be on for less time when/if it does fog and last much longer before it fogs again. As long as the grid sticks to it, I don't see any reason it shouldn't work as good or better than when applied to glass.
  6. Found and fixed the missing/hidden ground connection. Car cranked right up. Did a little more wiring cleanup and rearranging. On a side note, the little Battery Tender LiFePo battery I bought doesn't have much in the way of ah, but their low volt reset feature works. Happy I don't need another battery after running it down too low during electrical testing. Grabbed the cherry picker and did a little redneck body work on the front end to get the hood/bumper/headlight buckets better aligned. Now I can install the new aero catches and finish the radiator vent on the new hood. Also mocked up the frostfighter defrost grid on the new lexan windshield. Glad I didn't start the install after reading Huggies post on the subject. Only a few little things to tidy up before the running car becomes a running/driving/track ready car again (only been 3 1/2 years 😮). Hoping I can terrorize some of the local back roads with it this coming weekend. Initial shakedown track day at CMP tentatively (weather dependent) scheduled for 2/1.
  7. @Huggy Man, wish you would have posted this a few weeks ago as I already purchased their whole kit (with controller). Not that big of a deal b/c it only added a few bucks. The controller turns off after 10min, which I thought would be a good feature in case drivers forgot to turn it off once it was no longer needed. Is there any concern of it getting too hot if left on for long periods by accident? Really glad I haven't gone as far as installing it because you bring up several points that I wasn't sure about. Particularly the rectangle vs trapezoid install. Their own instructions do not specify the buss bars need to be parallel, and my assumption was that as long as complete installation was within the min-max width of the kit, installing in a trapezoidal arrangement would be fine. I guess its more sensitive than I assumed so I appreciate the heads up. Anyone have thoughts/experience/advice on installing these on Lexan? Its my project this week so any input is appreciated.
  8. I am curious, how did you machine that disc? Lathe, I'm assuming? Are full blown machine shop tools are now acceptable? I feel like I'm having to do a lot of catching up on what is considered acceptable now.
  9. This being the operative statement, IMHO. The previous rules/spirit attempted to dumb down modifications so that 90+% of folks with normal shop tools could easily replicate most of whatever anyone else did. It seems to me that some in this thread are making it sound like "yeah, buy that $30 hat, grab your dewalt and drill a few holes to mount it under your caliper. Easy peasy" Its only the brakes. What could possibly go wrong?
  10. I prefer epoxy over poly. If you're not laminating any core material, you'll need several layers of cloth and some mat for thickness. Try US composites for materials.
  11. Curious about test day. Open to those not entered for the race? Cost? CCES car tech/gear inspection required? Club memberships required?
  12. The good: we've got a roller again. Finished up the exhaust and fuel cell bulkhead. Rewired and installed the new gauge pod. Wired up and tested the redesigned fuel system, fixed a couple small leaks. Filled and tested the new Hunsaker fuel jugs. Installed new wheels. The bad: couldn't get it to fire. We didn't change anything on the engine since it ran last so I'm guessing wiring. Probably pulled something loose somewhere so I've got some searching to do this week. Unfortunately I ran the battery down too low and I had to quit for the night.
  13. So you found and posted the absolute cheapest example possible and then insinuate that it's reality for 95% of cars? After this thread was posted I went and looked and the best cost I can find for hats that could possibly work for us are ~$170ea (which, to me is much more realistic than $35ea....I'm not sure how Wilwood can even make that part for $35, much less make the part with profit room for a distributor, but I digress). When you add the iron and hardware to the mix, the bill for us is easily $500/side. That doesn't include any caliper spacers or adapters I would need to line the disc up to the caliper pathway. Then I read the rule about cost basis on 2x and assumed we all had to use box store costs since that is what is listed in the rule book (not dealer), but I guess its not the actual case in practice. I've said for a long time that a series that purports to level the performance for a massive variety of cars does itself a huge disservice with 2x rules. Since everyone is working off a different cost basis, how can 2x be even close to fair? One car gets a $1500 budget, yet another is stuck with $400 and everything in between. In our case, the dealer doesn't even offer replacement parts for most of the items covered under 2x rules. To me, 2x is just a relic left over from the AIV days. Just set a max retail value for a new part and give everyone the same cost basis.
  14. How are teams costing 2-pc discs? Retail kits? Rings+Material+hardware? Can someone show me an example?
  15. I don't think so. I think you did everything you could do and it was a safe and appropriate pass attempt. There was plenty of space and it wasn't what I would consider a dive bomb at all. At the moment of impact, you can clearly see most of your car in his video, the entire shark nose ahead of the camera car. He had a couple hundred yards to see you coming and even glanced in his mirror (at least, he seems to). I think this was just a momentary lapse during a high stress restart. The span of time in the video from T1-T3 is only about 3 seconds, so I get that there is a lot going on. I'm not trying to blast the other driver and he seems competent enough, but we all make mistakes from time to time. I don't think this one was yours. On another note, that E46's brake/tail lights are terrible.
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