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TiredBirds

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Everything posted by TiredBirds

  1. that's ok, I'll stick with the 200hp (giggle) 350 and use the bigger tank.
  2. so can you use the 435hp motor and just claim the 82 as a 68?
  3. yes they al cost the same to build which is why if this 305 goes, a 350 will be the replacement, but we'll have to take a 25 point hit for trans, as no stick was available with the 350 in Gen III F-bodies. As for gas, we burn 15 gallons in about an hour and a half. Never thought about the small block 400.... But for now we can say we are racing a #'s matching WS-6 car. lol
  4. Just build a 305...nobody will care what you do to the engine. Easy enough to make 300+hp if you use the right parts. Did the 82 Carlo's come with an aluminum intake w/ the 4bbl?
  5. yes so now I can grab an old mopar, ditch the t-bar, install a 5-6 rack for 10 points. I wonder how hard it would be to hang Gen II sheet metal on a Gen III?
  6. That is the problem here on the east coast Gen I and Gen II's are either rust buckets or people want stupid money. I have seen a few rollers/shells for 2k, of course if it is a T/A or Z28 the price jumps pretty quickly. My buddy had a with/blue 71 T/A superduty 455 car. It was in good shape... he was going to restore it but sold it. If I had room I might have snagged it.
  7. we are neck deep in the 88, you are more than welcome to come check it out...
  8. aren't 86ish and up SBC all one piece seal and roller? I know the 88 is. We use factory sway bars, no bumpsteer and no heims. We were still using the factory Qjet until the new build, with the points so low we added an RPM air gap and Race 2bbl Holley. Not sure how that will work. We did a garage rebuild on the motor, rings/bearings/cam/t-chain...all the usual stuff. We used a set of new stamped rockers, however we do have a set of 1.6 rollers, too lazy to check and see if they clear. Runs pretty good for a 305. Same additions to a 350 would really wake things up. The Vortec's are nice motors thou. I am under the impression the date coded blocks are not important. Down side is the 15.6 gallon tank. We can only do 1.5 hours, which is fine...
  9. who doesn't have a spare Holley? We ran the 700r4 for 3 races. ehhh it held up well but we did modify it and used the AC condenser as the cooler. It was just a pig always in the wrong gear.
  10. not worth the swap. You can add aluminum heads to the "stock" 350 for 100. I was thinking more along the line of Gen II F-body 350 4speed (no points) cam, headers, intake, heads = 225 + 150 = 375, moog springs free, bilstein's free, C6 brakes free, Ball joints 10?
  11. what would the points hit be for a Vortec swap?
  12. Gen II GM F-body is a good platform w/ a large tank, tons of aftermarket support and they are raced all over. Some classes ban them on the circle track. Additional HP and torque help out of the corners and pull more speed on the straights. If you have the ability to pass a bunch of cars on the straights and just hold your own in the corners you have a fast car. Now that said, it is dependent on the driver as well.
  13. UPDATE... There seemed to be a miscommunication w/ the lady at the track. The $50 is if you bring an ATV or pit "bike" to the track, not for the race car. Not sure how she though it was for the car.
  14. The "parts points" structure is more concerning to me. As they keep dropping it makes it more expensive to compete. If you run an old enough car starting at 150, you have a lot of room for go fast parts, and since those cars came with 20+ gallon tanks and you get 2 more with cell you could easily build a 400hp+ beast that can make a 2 hour run. The problem with all of that is cost.
  15. Not going to go. WOW what BS you have to do these days to race. Because of COVID you have to pre-register, then prove you have race insurance or pay an extra $50... FIFTY on top of the entrance fee of $50. Maybe if my drag car was ready...oh well there's always yard work to do.
  16. The Ford is worth more the BMW would be more expensive to fix I'd imagine. yeah I know that, been doing this a long time.. just going to have fun.
  17. not tagged and front end hasn't been aliened. But that will happen, have to get out easy, Doubt the T5 could handled dropping the hammer at 4k yes funner but more stuff to break.
  18. Copper plugs in a driver would last like 35-40k. Race car such as yours should last a year or two. Pull them at the end of the season and check them.
  19. So a buddy of mine asked if I wanted to go drag racing Sunday. My drag car is still not complete (67 GTX, tubbed, 4 link 700hp). So my options are 07 Mustang GT (auto) convert, I do have a programmer for it. Or my 99 BMW 540i Sport 6 speed. Honestly I like the BMW better all 229.000 miles of it. Car runs stupid good. I know the GT will run in the high 13's maybe lower if I turn up the tune. The BMW guys frown on abusing such a classic. Most have their E39's in a garage. Mine is my daily driver. The same tuning device I can use on the BMW but doubt it will make much of a difference. So what would you do?
  20. ^ what he said. I have a 99 540i sport 6 speed, it has 229,000 miles. I recently replaced the plugs. The ones that the forums said to use were like $10+ each.... I went with your standard Autolite... runs just fine.
  21. We use the factory jack points... If you use the front the entire side lifts up. Not a ton of weight outback anymore.
  22. Is that necessary? the entire side of our car will lift now with the cage.
  23. Driver was a tad shaken but ok. Car not so much. That was at maybe 60mph. The cage has been removed and inspected. It is fine. Will be going into the new car soon.
  24. why you want them OUT as far as possible.
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