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djsteviec

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  1. @snowman, don't forget to update your profile. Nein Shiza Autosport #529 Mazda Miata (NA) 2017 Thompson 12hr - 15/36 2017 VIR North 8hr Race 1 - 14/61 2017 VIR North 8hr Race 2 - 14/61 2018 Thompson 12hr - DNF
  2. Nothing confusing about it. I am saying, I would be in my own race against all of the EC cars. A would race A, B would race B, etc. Or all 500 pt cars race together for overall. Then a separate race within the race for EC. The 1000 lap is just an easy way to show separation.
  3. So, I read a lot of this forum- but nowhere near all of it. Here are a few simple changes that can be made- The A,B,C,D classes should be removed period, as they don't mean anything to Champcar, and there should only be a trophy for 1,2,3 overall for the 500 point cars. If keeping the classes, make a trophy for each class for 1,2,3 place. Race your class, as we do in all other series. You just have 4 or 5 separate races going on, on track at the same time. It was said as a joke about not wanting to be negative laps, but in reality the negative laps is an issue, as they won't show on Race Monitor or Hero until they are in the +. So, if you ran 99 laps with a 100 lap penalty- you would never show a lap completed. Start all EC cars at zero laps, start all 500 point cars at 1000 laps The gap, as mentioned would not be possible to get close and the complete separation would be done as mentioned. The 1000 lap gap is easily explainable and shown when looking at the timing and scoring. No sponsor will think you were 1000 laps down in the 7hr race. Let any entry in, as you do now. My old car was a class A car- Honda CR-X. It was quick, but with no incidents, perfect pit stops and really good drivers- the best we could get at The Glen was 3rd in class. The way it stands currently, we did not even get a mention for awards. That sucks! No, not looking for participation trophies, just trophies in class. Our current car would be EC if we bring it to a ChampCar, and would be way faster than the 500 point cars. I am only interested in racing if we have a chance to win. I don't have to win, but there needs to be a chance. If not, you may as well do DE events and save the car and components. I would know that running EC, I am only racing against EC cars. Just as I race in Class 3 now, I point by all of the 4 and 5 cars, which I am not racing at all. Until maybe the last lap, where a final position is good for bragging rights. But I am still only racing and winning in class. I have seen EC teams say- "we won overall". Congrats!! You are a 6th grader that beat all of the kindergartner's at dodge ball! You must be soo proud! That is just my 2 cents, along with others suggestions.
  4. Friends of mine are selling their Integra with a lot of spares for $5k! You can get it and modify it till your hearts content, and still not spend that $17k (if you want it to be ChampCar compliant)! Here is info from the post- Endurance race car with lots of extras. Raced in AER 2016. Can easily be made to race Honda challenge, chump car, champ car, lemons racing. 5,000 firm. Acura Integra b20 high compression spare transmissions. Type R front calipers w/ rsx type s rear calipers. Ss lines. Full cage. Fire supresson system. Hot Rodgers radio system Cool suit system. Sparco halo seat and Sparco instructor seat. Scroth belts. Window net. Remote kill system. 1 set of 5zigen and 1 set rpf1. Bmw defrosters. Toykio struts w/ skunk 2 Coilover. Adjustable front and rear camber. Fully gutted with anything unnecessary removed. Lexan rear windows. Multiple spares including doors, calipers, wheel bearings, rear trailing arms, control arms, axles, brakes, clutch disc. I'm sure I'm missing something. Enquiry to myself or Robert Turick. With work schedules it has been too hard for us to get back to the track. Willing to negotiate the removal of radio system, spare rpf1 wheels, cool suit system, or fire suppression system for lower prices. My new house doesn't have a garage built yet and I don't want this car to sit outside for the first time in its life. Here is the link if you can see it. https://www.facebook.com/groups/americanenduranceracing/search/?query=petch&epa=SEARCH_BOX
  5. No prob. All good. And helpful info. @mender, what about putting washers on the bottom of the bolts or studs that mount the backing plate to the axle? Then you can get negative camber.
  6. Mainly AER, but hope to do 1 or 2 events in EC. Thanks! I actually have one, but didn't use it. Checked wear during the day by scrub f tires and appeared even across the entire tread. But the Direzza are very sensitive to pressure, and had a fuel dump issue we were chasing (fixed now), so wasn't paying as close attention as I should have.
  7. It is JDM, but bone stock K24 engine from a TSX. It is a Class B Champcar! Oh, and a supercharger bolted to it. I guess bumped to C with forced induction. 🤣 I run it in AER, but may do a couple events in EC with it. Most likely Thompson as it is a home track for us.
  8. Equal length half shafts after the fixed mid shaft. Nothing really noticeable. But you definitely need to be able to feather the pedal. You can burn right through 1st, 2nd and 3rd if you want to. Used pretty much only 5th and 6th at Watkins Glen, 4th in the toe. Sounds good. Would love to hear the results. The car weighs 2400#.
  9. 324whp. Reverse stagger- 245/40/17 FR and 225/45/17 RR. Just did our 1st race at The Glen with the Zlll, which we always used on the old CR-X. Had uneven wear, which I think occurred due to high pressure. It looks like the optimal hot temp for the car and tires is 38FR and 36RR with the Zlll. But the temps got to like 50PSI! So, that definitely did not help. Only running about 2-2.5 degrees camber and the tires wore evenly across the tire at proper temp, in short term testing. Should be able to get a minimum of 9hrs on the front. The rear are not wearing at all, which is to be expected. But can't rotate as we used to, due to the stagger.
  10. Hi all, I am looking to see if anyone has any data on Hankook RS4 tires, primarily on FWD cars. I have a high HP FWD and use Zlll, but would like to get more life from the tires. I have heard the RS4 are not good in the rain, but not sure if that is more related to RWD?
  11. For sale- 2- JDM D15B 3 Stage VTEC engines (130HP) (1 new from JDM Engine Depot, 1 out of totaled race car) 1- 5spd from a '95 Civic EX w/ MFactory helical LSD (doesn't grind at all and does not have any issue) 1- JDM 5spd trans from D15B Hasport mounts for D15B/D16Z6 into Gen1 CR-X Hasport cable clutch car to hydro trans '96 EX rear mount 4-2-1 header Z6 intake manifold D15B intake manifold Custom made shift linkage Custom race harness downgraded to OBD1 OBD2 harness Custom Hasport L/ side axle Used R/ axle 2- New spare L/ axles 1- New spare R/ axle P28 ECU Very rare P2J ECU 3 or 4 alternators 2 spare distributor caps Spare timing covers Spare used oil pump Spare coils Enough spare engine and trans seals to rebuild couple times New spare T-belt New spare CV-boot New set of rear wheel cylinders 2 new front wheel bearings Custom made cold air intake (K&N composite kit) 2 '95 Civic radiators (one with fan mounted) New unopened clutch cable 3 or 4 clutches 3 or 4 flywheels Drilled, and tapped valve cover with ports for catch can Spare valve cover D16Z6 good long block, needs rebuild (Gold valve cover) Prefer to sell everything together- $2000 OBO (The MFactory diff alone is $700)
  12. Separate circuit being nothing else on that fuse or relay. It would have it's own relay and it's own dedicated fuse. Just looked at your diagram. You should have 1 relay for your ignition feed , 1 for your A/F sensor, and I like to use a relay for the starter as well. Each relay should have its own fuse. The power to the relays can come from your kill switch or just to Ign, then the sign power can feed the other 2.
  13. I used one for a few years in my CR-X. You are right. It looks good, but is very cheaply made. Luckily, knowing that- check all the connections to make sure they are tight. Also, the push button starter switch will go. I ordered a better aftermarket one after mine crapped out. Now it is all solid. Not used anymore, and in my box of race car spare parts, but solid.
  14. Cover fuel lines or anything fuel related. End of story. Nothing else inside needs to be messed with.
  15. I have the black nylon braided lines for all of my lines on the car. If i had to change the one line in the car, from the Accusump to the FW- I would not like it, but would do it if needed. Trying to enclose it is not feasible.
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