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Max

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Max last won the day on August 1

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    Portland, OR

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  1. Infiniti, My calipers are stock 200sx units, no fancy z32, z33 etc. brakes. But you bring up a good point. Those won't fit in 15's. Although I've got more pressing mods to do at this point, the front calipers should be upgraded soon. As far as engine's go, I found a vg33e from an xterra for $100 locally. The only good deals I found on vg30de's come with a J30 still attached to them. While this would be really cool, I'm not sure I could pull it off in time in addition to all the other stuff I want to do to the car over the winter. I appreciate your input though, a
  2. 225/50/16 Hankook RS4's on Z32 300zx 16x7.5" wheels. 2600 lb car. Not an ideal setup by any means, but they were $150 for 6 wheels, and sorta wide. Car drove for 6.5 hours before engine failure and the tires hardly look worn. If money wasn't a concern, I'd get 15x8" or 10" with 225/45 or 245/40 or jump up to 17x9 or 10 with a 245 or so.
  3. In case anyone is wondering how long a 32 year old Nissan truck engine with 250,000 miles on a race track near redline all day will last... About 7 hours. My opinion is that this is an old engine, and the failure isn't anything abnormal. When I got in the car and drove it nearly 5 sec/lap faster, I probably precipitated its premature failure. Also I'm wondering if the huge body roll made the oil slosh worse. Does anyone think oil starvation problems should be investigated? I was under the impression that this engine was pretty safe to take to the track and beat on in stock form
  4. Epic update: I know its been a while since the last update. Basically for the last three months I've been worrying myself sick trying to prepare the car for PIR, and studying for the PE exam (9.5 hours long) which is the day before we tow the car to the track for tech. Impeccable timing! I know it's not Champcar, but the car's first race was last weekend at Portland International Raceway with LDRL 8+7 with 45 min. night sprint. Figured it's appropriate to report on this thread anyway. This is where it all started for CC back at the 24 hour race on Halloween 11 years
  5. Definitely. I am so tired of getting the car in the air, then placing Jack stands, bending thin sheet metal pinch welds, uneven stand heights (I don't have a matching set of 4), and it never seems to be high enough to be on a creeper and have a welding helmet on or whatever. I went back and forth on how I was gonna get the car up higher. Considered a quickJack or maxjack, building a 1' tall ramp/rack thing out of wood, or 2x4 wood wheel cribs, but these race ramp wheel cribs seemed like the best compromise. If I hadn't just built a race car I might have went for a mid rise lift, but these will
  6. Update: All clean (enough), solid mounts Also cut/re-welded the exhaust because it was resting on the rear subframe. This exhaust looks like it's been worked on a hundred times over the last 30 years. My welds look terrible, the exhaust looks terrible and is kinda rusty. I cut off a monstrosity of pipe when I got the car and welded on the rear resonator. Probably after the first race I should re-do this with new pipe, probably in larger than current 2.25" diameter. Installed the Z31 rear eibach springs and they were too tall. I've heard these work, but may
  7. Congrats on your first race! Sounds like it was quite successful for a first race in a new car/new series. What kind of tires did you use?
  8. I would like to know this as well. Apparently when you take a stock door with a window and gut it, and cut the bar out its 40 lbs lighter (on my specific kind of car) I'd like to save that weight but really not sure if I should remove the bar from the drivers door or not.... Maybe that bar is absolutely nothing compared to two pieces of continuous DOM steel that your door bars are made of?
  9. I can't tell if the car bump steers, maybe it does. Guess I've never driven a car with a serious amount of bump steer to say "oh so THAT's bump steer". Here's the picture of the subframe mounting. The top plate is metal with a rubber edge, the bottom plate is metal and those other two holes mount to the chassis. And here's the diff mount filled. Mostly just leaked out the bottom and made a huge mess until I figured out how to seal the bottom better. It was hardened this morning, but still has a long cure time.
  10. Interesting, so it'll essentially jam the metal subframe against the body and take the rubber bushing out of the equation? The bottom has a plate that covers the bushing and then extends to the body with two more bolts. Mender I haven't measured camber yet, only used toe plates to zero out the toe basically. That's the extent of the alignment I've done to this car. I've been told as you lower this suspension you gain negative camber. There is an adjustment cam bolt on the inside pivot point closest to the diff. That's supposed to be toe, but in my experience with the
  11. Nice! Lets see if this works... Success!
  12. You're doing a good thorough job on this build. I should have deleted wiring like you're doing. Do you just take plugs from components that aren't used anymore, take their wires all the way back to their source, clip them & tape them off there or what? Keep it up. Hope you get to the track in Nov.
  13. I think the rear subframe is identical, or very close to a z31. I've used window weld for motor mounts before on FWD cars, wasn't sure if it would be stiff enough for this application. The urethane mix was only a few bucks more so we'll see how it goes! Would love to post some pics but for some reason it's limiting me to .6mb size. I don't get the picture hosting process on this site.
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