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Max

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Max last won the day on August 1

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    Portland, OR

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  1. OMGgggg Drove the car to work today, thought about racing all day at work, then drove the car up to PIR for track night. Car made it through 3, 20 minute sessions, and drove home an hour. Wins for tonight: Completed track night with no major mechanical problems. Did not have to call wife to come pick me up. Cons: Didn't hit my 1:3x.xx lap time goal (1:41.8). Not as fast as I was in a spec miata (1.36.1 best). My friends 16 year old son may have beat my time in the Miata I used to drive at his first track day 🤦🏻‍♂️. Total circus, insane traffic, 2-3 clean laps all evening. The car has so many handling problems I don't even know where to begin, it's low on grippy, very locky uppy, very 1 tire firey, suspension is very loosey goosey, darty under brakey... More to follow. I need to collect my thoughts and narrow down the problems with the car and focus on the main contributors to the lower-than-expected performance. I suspect not-4-year-old RS4's, stiffer rear springs, less aggressive rear pads, and brake ducts would all be helpful. Takeaways from tonight should really be that the wins far outweigh the cons. Freaking finally got the car on track that I've been building for 1.5 years and it didn't break down, and it drove home. I can't overstate how thankful I am for that. Pics and videos to follow!
  2. Sweet dude! Good video. Looking forward to your progress, especially doing all the racecar things like lexan... I want to tackle that soon as well. Hope you make it to an event soon!
  3. Over the years on different Nissan engines I've mistaken piston slap and lifter noise for rod knock. The piston slap turned out to be a melted piston on a turbo engine, and the lifter noise usually went away with some RPM and normal operating temp. IIRC the piston slap went away with some temp as well (took it apart because of bad blow by). My guess seeing those bearings is that you could put this thing back together and run it for quite a while trouble free... But that's just a guess!
  4. As @dwendel said it's an aero mod, maybe like a cheap diffuser. I thought this was a pretty good discussion on the subject (although I don't know how credible this guy is, but he seems fair). This test is even done using your car!
  5. I'd appreciate that but I'm unlikely to make it outside of the Pacific NW. Not a popular area for champcar 😔 Rest assured, I'll get some brake cooling figured out before race day!
  6. Definitely will soon. I only have a few pieces of 2.5" brake duct hose, probably not enough for real ducts. I do have these Porsche 911 brake deflectors that a friend gave me, thought they'd be quick and easy and provide some benefit. Though before an endurance race I think ducts will be necessary.
  7. Minor updates: I'm happy to report that my handling problems have been mostly resolved! Don't know if it was lowering the car another inch, significantly increasing caster, significantly increasing front camber, taking out the rear toe-in, or all of the above, but man the car drives the best it ever has! It really feels like its on rails, although driving it on the road isn't much of a test right now. Along with dialing in the alignment and straitening the steering wheel I've also: Installed rear extended wheel studs and ordered new spacers (right now there's only spacers on the front for clearance to the strut) Installed a front tow strap PUT STICKERS ON! Rolled fenders more, since the car is lower I've noticed how darn close the fenders are to the tire Looked at putting on brake cooling air deflectors Best thing is that there's stickers on it now so it looks more like a race car on my commute to work, instead of just an 80's pile of junk with a lightning bolt on the side. Track night JULY 31st!!!!!!!!
  8. Completely 100% agree with this. But I'm also trying to decide if I want to drive my race car to it's first race or rent a uhaul dolly to tow it with my minivan because, hey, it's better than not racing!
  9. Definitely. Very easy to get distracted and chase bells and whistles. Thankfully I have been able to race a miata once a year for the last 4 years, and it really snaps me back to reality. It changed my perception of what a "race car" needs to be for this kind of series. As far as mods it has spec miata coilovers and a torsen, and that's it. So basic and yet we've had a reasonable amount of success with it. I also find that getting back to the track for a race or track day helps to switch focus back to car prep that *needs* to be done instead of extras. Still happy to have the lap timer though 😁
  10. Daaang🤑 maybe someday! Lap timer and half working stock gauge cluster will have to do for now!
  11. A great dude for sure! We had it on the center console, about where your 3 gauges are on that cobra. Huge improvement for sure. The last two races at this track I had about the same fast laps and couldn't seem to get past it. Next race we added the lap timer. The predictive time showed that I was on personal bests until going through turns 10 & 11 and screwed it all up. By the end of the weekend I had lowered my personal best by over a second, but also did quite a few of them. A lot of the improvement was about carrying speed in that area. I haven't decided where to mount it yet but open to suggestions. Can't wait to use this thing. The county that the track is in just reopened, and I'm scheduled for a track day July 31.
  12. It's also to make sure your front toe is referencing your rear toe... Do most racers not do this? I realize that it could be a "set it and forget it" kinda thing, so long as there aren't any big changes or crashes.
  13. I'd totally do that but unfortunately the steering hub is a weld-on, and it's a hex, so putting the wheel on different makes a huge change. But it's ok, I need to figure out the string alignment anyway, toe plates can only do so much.
  14. Good discussion guys. Mender I'm not sure if you were asking for my spring specs or Morganf's. Here are the stock spring specs anyway. Cut & pasted from the forum so thats why the colors are goofy, deleted info from other models. Rates are blown up and in bold. So far I've cut 1.25 coils front, and 1.5 rear. From memory, the fronts had about 3-3.5 active coils and the rear had around 7. FrontCoil Diameter All Models - 150 (5.91) Wire Diameter Left VG30E - 13.6 (0.535) Right VG30E - 13.7 (0.539) Free Length Left VG30E - 301.0 (11.85) Right VG30E - 307.5 (12.11) Spring Constant (Spring Rate) N/mm (kg/mm, lb/in) CA18ET and VG30E - 29.1 (2.97, 166.3) RearCoil Diameter VG30E - 111.1 (4.37) Wire Diameter VG30E - 13.1 (0.516) Free Length VG30E - 348.0 (13.70) Spring Constant (Spring Rate) N/mm (kg/mm, lb/in) VG30E - 27.5 (2.8, 157) Got the car put back together over the weekend. The ride height seems to have worked out pretty good. Its about 2" lower in the front +/- .25" and the rear I'd say is slightly lower than that (from stock)... But the ride height appears to be pretty even all around. Set the toe which was dramatically off from changing the LCA pivot point. The rear was a bit toe'd in, so I set that back to around zero. Steering wheel is way off, so I'm going to be teaching myself how to do a string alignment soon. I have 10 years experience doing alignments but it was always on a rack with a machine and never on a racecar, so there's some learning to do for sure. I drove the car and it felt pretty darn good. Didn't have the time to drive it up to speed and check the darty-ness, but will drive it to work this week for evaluation after I straighten the steering wheel. This might be the best the car has ever driven. With the bounce test it seems like the front rates are really high and the rear are really low... I'm not going to look too far into this until I've taken it on track for an actual evaluation. The most important improvement though is that the car looks way cooler. Came in to work today to find that my boss bought me a brand new AIM Solo2 lap timer. I think I mentioned to him a couple months ago that I wanted one pretty bad but it wasn't going to be in the budget for this year. It's his chump miata that got me into road racing for the first time and the lap timer made a huge improvement. This is the nicest part on the car...absolutely thrilled!!
  15. I'll have to do some searching when the time comes if there are any race spring options that will fit within my stock diameters. F: 5.91" R: 4.37". There IS one set of aftermarket springs known in existence for this car that are direct replacement. Unfortunately they're progressive springs, 325F 275R, and they only lower a street car about 1", so would probably need to be trimmed anyway. A common mod for this car is welding on threaded sleeves front with 2.5" race springs, and circle track 5x8" race springs rear with adjustable perches.... Unfortunately in champcar that's a lot of points. Might be able to replicate a design like that without adjustment and save some though. I'll check out that Moog catalog, but rather than buying oem springs and then cutting, I might be inclined to just stick with my modified OEM springs. Knowing that other successful teams have made their cars handle with the same problems I'm facing tells me that this probably won't be the biggest performance limiter. @Team Infiniti gave me some advice on how to work through setting up my oem springs, and I'm going to give that a try and evaluate it on track before switching springs. @mender thanks for the links and information, I will have to read up and use more brain when I'm not on my phone. Today the girls are taking off, so I get a work day with my two young boys. The possibility of productivity is endless, as long as I can keep them on task (green font, they're 2.5 & 4.5).
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