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  1. You're a hero Paul! And a Nissan guy even!
  2. Good news and bad news. Good: team came over and drove the car for the first time. Even made a little video! Did hawk blues and new rotors all around. Installed new pyrotect FIA harness. Tried to move the seat forward because they're both shorter than me... Decided it was too big of a project for right now and settled on a foam pad insert. Timed the car and set the idle. Installed passenger seat and oem seat belt. Added cage foam for the passenger. Washed and wet sanded the car. Special purpose vehicle registration showed up!!! I'm driving this bad boy to work!! The really really bad news is that PIR is not exactly cancelled, but it the race has been moved to the Ridge. Portland has not reopened yet and nobody knows when it will. It was going to be tight getting to the race as is, but adding a few hours each way and a new track that none of us have driven means we'll probably move our registration to the October PIR race or the 10 hour race at the end of July at ORP. Probably leaning toward PIR in October, which will likely allow time for a track day to test.
  3. Well at least you'll have the exhaust don't before it gets too hot! Cutting and welding under the car sounds like the worst in 110 deg. Doesn't get that hot here very often, but I'm still a wimp and put a window AC unit in my garage and run it all day when I want to work in the summer. It keeps the garage a little cooler than outside anyway. Personally I think straight through resonators produce a better sound than chambered mufflers, but when you really need to keep the noise down the you might not have a choice. Nice job with the budget!
  4. Thanks for chiming in Mike! Its hilarious how different our cars are and yet the same chassis! Still really glad that there's another s12 racing! Can't wait to see what your team does on a more conventional race weekend than Road Atlanta was! I think keeping everything as stock as possible is preferable for me, I don't have a huge budget and I'm trying to put this car together myself. Easy & cheap upgrades/repairs/replacements will be preferred. I got a little spooked about parts availability when replacing calipers, but we'll see, maybe I'll find a good source. I'm sure I mentioned it earlier in the thread, but rear calipers for a z31 worked (except ebrake). Man that makes me feel better knowing you guys were in the same boat racing an untested car and you were able to stay on track and compete. It doesn't look like I'm going to have much of a choice considering the circumstances! I did mail off my stuff for registration, as soon as that comes back I'm driving this bad boy to work everyday... lightning bolt and all! Thanks Bremsen! I appreciate all these Nissan guys giving their input, it's very helpful! You're right, I really haven't spent much time reducing weight.... there's so much I could do. My doors are still fully intact w/power windows. All the glass is still in the car. This is definitely low-hanging fruit I can pick once all the important jobs are complete. It would be nice to get down to the 2500 lbs range. That's good news that the z32's worked for you, I was told the same by the other s12 team that races over here. They went wilwood after doing their LS swap though. Are those the aluminum or steel calipers? Thanks for the offer, I'll definitely consider it. I have to wait until after my June race to be making any upgrades though. What turbo rotors are they? I know the late z31 turbos had slip on rotors, and unfortunately I don't have the hubs to accept slip on rotors. Randomly, I chose the same compound, Hawk blues, front and rear so we'll see how that goes! I'm not at all stuck on 16's. So far I'm into these wheels $150 for 6. I have 4 new and 4 used tires to wear out, and then I'd consider changing. My goal was to not spend a ton of money and still get a wide enough wheel to accept a tire of decent width. I really didn't want to be stuck with 195 or 205/50/15's on such a big car. There's no keeping me from going 225/45/15, 245/40/15, or bigger and get 17's.... I may go for any of these options, but I'm much more chump than champ when it comes to budget so I'll probably be looking for an OEM wheel that matches the tire size I want to run. Here's the tires I have to choose from, all RS4's: 195/50/15225/45/15245/40/15225/50/16245/40/17255/40/17245/40/18265/35/18275/35/18295/40/18 Thanks for the tip on the extended studs. I found that S13 studs worked and bought some... we'll see how they work. So far I only installed them on the front to account for the spacer, and kept the second set for spares. Glad someone else is racing a vg30! I know it's kind of a dog to todays standards, but I enjoy it. When I was a nissan tech I got a lot of experience working on these engines, and they sure didn't flat out fail very often. I will look into those cams, that's a great deal! Rest assured, I have no interest in LS motors. I'm a hopeless nissan fan😅 Update on the car... I think I got the speedometer to work after the cluster was displaced by the dash bar. Tach looks to be toast. One of my drivers was disappointed to hear that there wasn't going to be a tach on the car, but I assured him we could work out the shift points on the speedo. Well what do you know, a shiny new autometer tach showed up to my front door this week! He was serious about wanting a tach! I've got a good group of guys. If this race at PIR happens we're going to have a heck of a good time!
  5. I'm no expert on SM, but I believe they do not require dash bars, and the base plate requirements for the cage is no less than the tube wall thickness (probably .095"). Cage base plates in champcar have to be 1/8" thick (.125"). I wonder how this works though, maybe CC would allow a car from SM with a logbook in....a question for tech. Other than that, most of the SM cages I've seen have quite a bit more elements than required by champcar. Really sorry to hear about the fire...
  6. I'm hoping the pads last as long as you say, others have reported that kind of wear. We should be good, but will still plan for the worst. The miata @ PIR is the only experience I have, and the owner (SM driver) can use up the 11.8 gal capacity in 1:41ish. It takes me and the other slower drivers more like 1:50. Hard to say what my car will do with 14 gal, as the engine is almost 2x miata size. The engine makes a lot more torque and much lower RPM. I think that my drivers might be able to run out well before 2 hours, but we should be just fine at 1:42 or whatever it is for a 7 hour. Thankfully this is a 7+7 with a 45 min. sprint. Either way we're all just thrilled to go racing. We're going to be the happiest team ever just to be there.
  7. This is really good to hear for new teams like mine (and hopefully the OP). I haven't heard this advice given before. There's enough to worry about already when building a new race car, and having to mod/upgrade everything seems like a good recipe for never getting to race.
  8. Blue Bayou's 240 is awesome, but I also think they are just a solid team. Usually they're battling it out in the top 3 at the races I've attended. I am looking forward to making some friends in the local enduro community. The team I've run with does one enduro a year and otherwise only races SCCA SM, so I haven't gotten very connected with the LD/CC types yet. I'll try to keep that in mind, and not go too crazy. I want my guys to try their best, and to go for the best result possible, but for this first race patience might be the best strategy in order to ensure we finish. I don't want to do 30 minute stints, bog around in high gear, or lolly-gag during pit stops. Perhaps adding a stop would be a good compromise between precaution and competing, so we have another opportunity to check over the car and make sure we don't wear out the drivers at their first race. That might also keep us from worrying about fuel (14 gal tank). All good suggestions on the mechanicals! I have Hawk blues on the front and HP+ rears, and I plan on bringing spare front race pads. It looks like the pad selection is somewhat limited for this car. I can't find st43's that fit my calipers, but I haven't looked super hard yet. I've found some R4-e's, but they're almost double the cost of hawk blues. I hate to say the budget matters, but at this point there is a finite amount of money before the race gets here. I know blues aren't the best race pad, but being a race pad I have to assume that two sets will be plenty for 15 hours of racing. I have some ducting materials as well, and I'll try to throw something together for brake cooling. Thanks Mender!
  9. This is the kind of stuff that worries me. Stuff that can't easily be resolved without ordering parts (like a big radiator). Of course another is condition of internal engine & transmission parts (rod bearings, syncros, etc). Really good idea. This would answer a lot of questions I'm sure. Not sure if there's any opportunities like this around me, I'll have to check. Unfortunately I don't think there's going to be any answering of questions like @wvumtnbkr brought up. Effects of heat after 4 hours, ability to brake from 115ish 2x in 1.75 minutes, engine & trans ability to stay together after high RPM use for 7 hours straight...... I'm bringing race pads for the front 2x, new rear race pads & crappy emergency spares, 6 new tires, enough fluids... tools... At this point, spares for this car probably need to be sourced online. I don't know what's going to break so short of bringing a spare car... I guess we'll just have to find out? 🤷‍♂️ Thanks for the suggestions guys! Sneak peak:
  10. DMV's are all closed to customers, but still process registration through mail. So I mailed off all the stuff to get the race car registered. State of Oregon has an "SP" plate that you can get for a racing only vehicle. They allow you to drive the car up to 90 miles to the race track and 30 miles from your home/shop for "testing". Looks like I'm going to have to "test" the car to work everyday 🤷‍♂️ EDIT: oh yeah, and plates are only $25, and they never expire. SCORE! Anyone want to share some wisdom on how to test the car in advance if it's first day on track is going to be race day? With the track day being canceled I won't have any choice.... Of course my mind is wandering to all the extreme worst case scenarios here. Paint is done. Just have to unwrap it, put it back together, and throw some stickers on it.
  11. Would you mind posting/sending a picture of the IO port seat back brace?
  12. I'm thinking that's my only option at this point. Gotta make sure everything is good. Really want to know if the engine is going to overheat, or if I need to rebuild a trans or something waaay before race day. Also, painting is just one big trade off. Having someone else do it is expensive, and there's no getting around that. Do it yourself and you're going to spend a lot of time. The amount of time you spend is proportional to how good it looks. Its a super slippery slope with painting and body work too. You can easily find yourself spending way more time than you planned on spending. I can tell you that it isn't very expensive, and I prefer this method to rattle cans. I've rattle canned cars before and they haven't ever looked this good. This is Rustoleum from Lowe's at $8/quart, $15 mineral spirits, a $10 harbor freight spray gun with a $150 harbor freight compressor. Of course you'll need some sand paper, scotch brite, tack cloth, painters tape and rolls of paper.... and a whole butt-load of hours.
  13. Good news and bad news: Good news - The car now has lightning bolts. Bad news - Track day before the car's first race was canceled. I may consider using my refund from the track day to register the car and just commute to work in it. Really need to find out if I have all the bugs worked out of this thing!
  14. The race I'm referring to was Oct '19, and there were 53 cars entered. They run 2 races per year at PIR, June or July & October. The summer race usually sells out or is close to it (75 car max), Oct usually has around 50-60 cars because its very likely that it'll rain all weekend (its Oregon). Saturday: A - 14 cars B - 14 cars C - 21 cars SD - 4 cars (this is like EC)
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