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Wheel bearing brands?


Gearhead_42
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Found a rear wheel bearing on its way out on the rear of my 240SX this weekend.  It uses a bearing assembly with the flanges and bearings as a unit that bolts onto the upright, and the hub presses in.  Shares the same part with non-turbo Z32s, so the fact that the used OEM 300z parts I bolted on 12 years ago are just now failing is pretty encouraging.

 

Any experience with this type?  Is one manufacturer of sufficiently superior quality to command a premium price?  Judging by Rock Auto prices can range from $30 for an "economy" replacement to over $90 for a Timken branded "Standard Replacement" unit.   Or just take a chance on another set of "used" factory units?

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We burned up a cheap set of aftermarket bearings in 45 mins. I would get a good brand and grease with good high temp wheel bearing grease. That being said I've seen lots of junk yard oem stuff work really well for a long time when treated right and given fresh good grease. 

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7 minutes ago, flyinglizard said:

Timkin if they are tapered rollers.  Not all Timkin are tapered. 

Don't believe they're tapered, though I can't say exactly how the original engineers accounted for the side loads... this is the assembly,  hub presses in from this face, then the whole unit bolts onto the face of the upright.

81cIgV1RqgL._SL1500_.jpg

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Don't cheap out on bearings.  They're one of those things where material properties and tolerances are critically important, so only buy the well-known name brands, or you'll be loosing hubs faster than Bill.  

 

Good brands:

Timken

SKF

FAG/INA

NTN

JTEKT/Koyo

 

Usually re-branded good stuff:

Motorcraft

AC Delco

Other OEM branded parts

 

Sometimes re-branded good stuff, sometimes crap (check for one of those first 5 logos on the bearing itself):

Moog

Centric

Beck/Arnley

National

 

I would avoid anything else, although somebody might chime in with a tier 1 bearing supplier I missed.

 

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I purposely bought Timkens, and was disappointed when I saw the stamping on the bearings. I don't recall now, but in addition to Timken, they also had Japan or Korea stamped on them...

Makes you wonder how good they are, even if they are Timken brand.

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53 minutes ago, mcoppola said:

I purposely bought Timkens, and was disappointed when I saw the stamping on the bearings. I don't recall now, but in addition to Timken, they also had Japan or Korea stamped on them...

Makes you wonder how good they are, even if they are Timken brand.

 

Just the plant location, and Japan and Korea both have strong high-precision manufacturing industries.  Even some of the well-run Chinese plants are top tier now.  If it said Pakistan, or Vietnam, or Indonesia, I'd be a bit more worried. 

 

If you're trying to Buy American, well...Timken is a US company, but not sure how to find the US manufactured bearings.

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8 minutes ago, Huggy said:

IDK about yall, but i want GERMANY stamped on all of my important bits

 

Edit.

 

W.Germany or Deutschland are also acceptable

 

That's pretty funny. I don't think there is a single German manufactured part on my car. I can see why its different for a BMW though. 

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My CR-X weak point is the rear wheel bearing. The hub and bearing are all one piece and just bolt on with a single axle nut to the spindle.

 

If i drop a wheel off track, while really driving hard- I need to continue the car onto the grass and come back smoothly. If I try to save it and bring it back- bearing will be shot!

 

I have tried Moog, Timken and the DriveWorks by Advance Auto. I can tell you the DriveWorks has by far been the best, and the cheapest!

I keep 2 spare with me for the car and 1 spare DriveWorks front bearing. (worked so well in rear, got for the front also)

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I bought Timken and one of them exploded and tried to kill me.  I'm back to cheap bearings and consider them a wear item to be changed every race or every other race.  YMMV.  

IMG_1550.JPG

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4 hours ago, Jer said:

I bought Timken and one of them exploded and tried to kill me.  I'm back to cheap bearings and consider them a wear item to be changed every race or every other race.  YMMV.  

 

Every other race makes perfect sense to me but are you sure there wasn't an impact involved in that picture? that is really spooky.

Edited by tommytipover
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48 minutes ago, tommytipover said:

Every other race makes perfect sense to me but are you sure there wasn't an impact involved in that picture? that is really spooky.

Absolutely sure.  I think it was 27 hours at High Plains a tough track on bearings to begin with, wheel spacers (keeping those off the new build), and the fact that perhaps Timkin is really not much or any better than anyone else.  I personally wonder if the same plants makes all the bearings and sells to everyone who then labels and prices differently.  

 

And if you think it looks scary, you should have been in the car, headed through the prairie at 100 MPH with no brakes and almost no steering. :(  

Edited by Jer
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On 7/17/2017 at 6:10 AM, Gearhead_42 said:

Don't believe they're tapered, though I can't say exactly how the original engineers accounted for the side loads... this is the assembly,  hub presses in from this face, then the whole unit bolts onto the face of the upright.

81cIgV1RqgL._SL1500_.jpg

 

That's likely a dual row angular contact ball bearing. They handle side loads reasonably well (not as well as tapered rollers) with low drag/good efficiency. 

Not the best for racing, but they can last if prepared correctly.

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