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Different gas pedal, fabrication help needed


Mopar 4 Life
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With my two cars being down for winter upgrades for 2-3 months. I decided I have time to tackle a tricky fabrication project.

 

I frequently get comments the neons gas pedal is a little weird to get good consistent heel toe action. It is a cable setup. But it has two hinges on the design. One at the firewall and another on the enter of the pedal itself. Which leaves the top part of the pedal to flop around. That leaves a pedal if you don't place your foot right no throttle action at all.

 

So that's the issue. I know of tilton for pedals. I was thinking of doing a floor mount and lining it up with the stock brake and clutch pedals which I have no problem with. Was looking for guidance on how to tackle this project? How do you adjust for pedal travel, do these aftermarket pedals have adjustable stops? And I am assuming the cables are all custom made?

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Having a neon as well, the pedal is double hinged like 60s cars and has no real pedal stops. If i were you i would go the easy route, and use most of the oem pedal "arm". Weld a fixed pedal plate to it, and if you are really fancy built or buy a new assembly for the pedal with stops, and simply weld on or make a cable holder on the pedal to use neon cable. I think 2gn cables are longer, if you need an option. 

 

You can also cut up the throttle cable holder on the throttle body. The outer sheath holder (square hole), not the cam that the inner cable clips to. Move the sheath further or closer to the throttle body to change the "slack" in the pedal. Set your stops inside the car so the pedal can go just wide open when the think is stomped, but not possible to pull the cable so hard you can break it.

 

Be careful of floor mount throttle pedal and upper hung brake and clutch. The most natural feel will be similar pivot locations for all pedals, so your feet dont have to move up and down. The stock neon isnt that far off in this regard, and it can be quickly moved up in pivot point if needed.

 

I literally torched mine, bent it how i wanted it and bolted the two screws to locate it where it felt best

Edited by Black Magic
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I was lucky that the RX had a pretty decent pedal that is adjustable. I wanted to make it easier to heel toe so I added an extension to get it closer to the brake. Word to wise you can go too far and you have a problem catching the gas while braking which can make life interesting... I found that you need at least an inch and a half or 40mm clearance. That works great with low profile driving shoes but it is still a problem if I am testing around the shop with boots on. 

IMG_20150101_161914~01.jpg

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I agree with @mhr650 .  We put an aluminum cover on ours and it was WAAYYY too wide when actually driving. We needed to cut it back to a point where it was just a bit wider than the normal pedal. 

 

Ours was a similar double hinge style and we never really had any issues with it, so can't really comment other than the above. I went back and forth with a way to make it "fixed" for the pedal hinge, but in the end figured the movement seemed so natural for actual throttle application (ie mid corner) so favoured that over the blip modulation it may improve. 

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4 hours ago, Mopar 4 Life said:

With my two cars being down for winter upgrades for 2-3 months. I decided I have time to tackle a tricky fabrication project.

 

I frequently get comments the neons gas pedal is a little weird to get good consistent heel toe action. It is a cable setup. But it has two hinges on the design. One at the firewall and another on the enter of the pedal itself. Which leaves the top part of the pedal to flop around. That leaves a pedal if you don't place your foot right no throttle action at all.

 

So that's the issue. I know of tilton for pedals. I was thinking of doing a floor mount and lining it up with the stock brake and clutch pedals which I have no problem with. Was looking for guidance on how to tackle this project? How do you adjust for pedal travel, do these aftermarket pedals have adjustable stops? And I am assuming the cables are all custom made?

The BMW pedal system is pretty great... floor hinged loud pedal and hanging brake / clutch. Everyone who drives the e30 can heel/toe with ease, I find it much better than the hanging gas pedal in the honda that I raced years back. As far as mounting it / hardware / products I'm of no help... maybe just find a junk E30 and steal the pedal mechanisms.

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4 minutes ago, enginerd said:

The BMW pedal system is pretty great... floor hinged loud pedal and hanging brake / clutch. Everyone who drives the e30 can heel/toe with ease, I find it much better than the hanging gas pedal in the honda that I raced years back. As far as mounting it / hardware / products I'm of no help... maybe just find a junk E30 and steal the pedal mechanisms.

 

Until they rip off the bottom and get stuck at WOT 

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5 minutes ago, Jamie said:

Until they rip off the bottom and get stuck at WOT 

Haven't heard of that happening before.. Rusted hinge?

 

[aside] Stuck at WOT is no biggie... our car brakes with at least 3x the tractive effort of the engine, slowing it to a controlled speed while at WOT would be pretty easy. Especially if one remembers to turn off the ignition :)

Edited by enginerd
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1 minute ago, enginerd said:

Haven't heard of that happening before.. Rusted hinge?

 

[aside] Stuck at WOT is no biggie... our car brakes with at least 3x the tractive effort of the engine, slowing it to a controlled speed while at WOT would be pretty easy. Especially if one remembers to turn off the ignition :)

 

...or use the left pedal at the same time as the middle pedal

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5 minutes ago, enginerd said:

Haven't heard of that happening before.. Rusted hinge?

 

[aside] Stuck at WOT is no biggie... our car brakes with at least 3x the tractive effort of the engine, slowing it to a controlled speed while at WOT would be pretty easy. Especially if one remembers to turn off the ignition :)

 

Rust was the issue. I should also note that I press the gas pedal so hard that I limp for a couple days after a race weekend, I am working on that though.

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1 hour ago, mhr650 said:

I was lucky that the RX had a pretty decent pedal that is adjustable. I wanted to make it easier to heel toe so I added an extension to get it closer to the brake. Word to wise you can go too far and you have a problem catching the gas while braking which can make life interesting... I found that you need at least an inch and a half or 40mm clearance. That works great with low profile driving shoes but it is still a problem if I am testing around the shop with boots on. 

IMG_20150101_161914~01.jpg

 

This is not the problem I have. Imagine the top part of the pedal itself has another hinge. If you happen to press the top portion of the pedal there is no action on the throttle at all.

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11 hours ago, Mopar 4 Life said:

 

This is not the problem I have. Imagine the top part of the pedal itself has another hinge. If you happen to press the top portion of the pedal there is no action on the throttle at all.

 

I understand your problem, my point was when you fab something up be careful not to get it too close to the brake pedal. I went too far and had to trim it back a little, 40mm seems to be perfect. 

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Coming from e30's to the neon, the throttle was very frustrating at first. We have thrown around the idea of adapting the bmw method, something like what pictured below, but honestly just haven't had the time and have had much bigger fish to fry, like brake lights shorting out ECU's.

 

552797_228275243947942_1077346629_n-473x630.jpg

399126_228275367281263_1134046943_n-630x473.jpg

 

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