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Help with megasquirt


Mopar 4 Life
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Hey,

 

So my team has decided to spend some money and get a ms3pro evo ecu for our neon. I am having trouble trying to use the stock map sensor. How do I calibrate this sensor? It needs to be scaled and I honestly have no idea how to accomplish this?

 

We did not want to use the onboard map sensor due to the risk of having failure and not being able to change it easily.

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Email Matt at DIY and I would think he would have the calibration for it. Also, there is a big megasquirt forum that should be able to answer that one easy.

 

Personally I would just get a 1bar tmap sensor as it will work much better for you.

 

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/129_143/products_id/2270?osCsid=glao145dec8esvg3ere1e599i0

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Is your MAP sensor mounted directly onto the manifold? If it is the Bosch that Troy linked to will work, if it is remote mounted just get a GM sensor and be done with it. When I did my MS3Pro I took the path of least resistance and converted my engine over to all GM sensors. I drilled and tapped the water pump housing and intake  manifold to 3/8 NPT for coolant and intake air sensors, used a 1BAR GM MAP sensor and even made a little ring to fit a GM TPS sensor. I also used GM coils, all of this because it is what the MS is baselined with so you don’t have to do calibrations to use your existing sensors, and every parts store in the country has replacements if you ever need one.

 

A lot of people try to reuse as much of the factory wiring and parts as possible, I went in the opposite direction and didn’t use an inch of the existing wiring, or any stock sensor except for the crank angle sensor. Also people make the mistake of thinking about how to set up the engine based on how the factory did it, once you convert over forget how the factory did it and do what works best for the MS. You will get much better results with much less headaches.

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1 hour ago, Mopar 4 Life said:

Hey,

 

So my team has decided to spend some money and get a ms3pro evo ecu for our neon. I am having trouble trying to use the stock map sensor. How do I calibrate this sensor? It needs to be scaled and I honestly have no idea how to accomplish this?

 

We did not want to use the onboard map sensor due to the risk of having failure and not being able to change it easily.

 

You need to get the specifications for the sensor and plug those into the MS. You need to know the voltage at cetain pressures, not sure if this is public.

 

If you don't know it you can always measure it, assuming it's 100 at WOT and ~30 at idle?

 

But I would just get the MPX4250....

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5 hours ago, flyinglizard said:

 I use all GM map sensors . Cheap and they come 1,2,or3 bar .

I have TS( version 3.0.28)  up now it it has  the map sensor calibration tab under sensor calibration. 

 I dont use a TPS for the race cars.   

 

Do you know what cars the map comes from? I will sneak out to the junkyard to steal the wiring connector.

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7 minutes ago, wvumtnbkr said:

Ford? 

 

P.S. I Love the "hugs and kisses".

 

You guys really love that car, don't you?

 

Would you not a love a car that you have lit on fire, dragged all the way around North America, crashed, spun and bought for $150 bucks and a 2-4 of coors light from a guy in a trailer park?

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6 hours ago, mhr650 said:

Is your MAP sensor mounted directly onto the manifold? If it is the Bosch that Troy linked to will work, if it is remote mounted just get a GM sensor and be done with it. When I did my MS3Pro I took the path of least resistance and converted my engine over to all GM sensors. I drilled and tapped the water pump housing and intake  manifold to 3/8 NPT for coolant and intake air sensors, used a 1BAR GM MAP sensor and even made a little ring to fit a GM TPS sensor. I also used GM coils, all of this because it is what the MS is baselined with so you don’t have to do calibrations to use your existing sensors, and every parts store in the country has replacements if you ever need one.

 

A lot of people try to reuse as much of the factory wiring and parts as possible, I went in the opposite direction and didn’t use an inch of the existing wiring, or any stock sensor except for the crank angle sensor. Also people make the mistake of thinking about how to set up the engine based on how the factory did it, once you convert over forget how the factory did it and do what works best for the MS. You will get much better results with much less headaches.

 

Yeah at this point I think I am just making it harder on my self. The map sensor is a pain to change on my car right now so I should probably just change it to a GM style or the stock MS one.

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29 minutes ago, Mopar 4 Life said:

 

Do you know what cars the map comes from? I will sneak out to the junkyard to steal the wiring connector.

 

If you are staying NA almost any GM from the late 80’s or early 90’s had a 1 BAR sensor on it, and you can get one from any parts store, if you are going boosted you will want the 3 BAR version and you can get those from many online sources. All the companies that sell to the tuner market want to sell the 3 BAR version and it would work OK with a NA engine but why waste 2/3 of your sensors range if you are not running it into boost.

 

This is what it should look like.

gm1bar.jpg

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 For a race car , all you need is a slight warm up map. A good wide band input and tach input..  You dont need a TPS. Yes it suffers a little tiny bit at light throttle/tip in.   Adding fuel  to the tiles directly above the idle tiles reduces any flat spots to an acceptable amount . WOT through the gears  can be trimmed to any AFR .  

Narrow up the advance curve RE to temps to keep the timing under the knock threshold .  As long as the wide band  works the Micro can run closed loop.  You can add the knock sensor input also for more power.  and fuel burn rate at part throttle.

 I run mine in closed loop( with data logging)  and tweak the AFR and timing on the dyno, then lock the tables  so that a sensor failure wont limp it. 

On race day the maps are totally locked . Sensor failure  wont compromise the maps.   A failed TPS might put it in clear mode. A failed coolant temp might show minus 40 and way too much fuel . 

 The fewer the inputs  for racing  usually has better results. 

  When we get to be a true contender and get close on fuel burn times, I will look at better fuel control at part throttle, maybe.  

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2 hours ago, wvumtnbkr said:

Don't you need both?  

 

Intake air temp to tell the density of air and map to tell the 'volume' of air.  This will tell you how many "molecules" of air you actually have going through the engine.

Not for MS I believe. You can run an IAT and tune with speed density 

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