Mopar 4 Life Posted January 12, 2018 Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 Hey, So my team has decided to spend some money and get a ms3pro evo ecu for our neon. I am having trouble trying to use the stock map sensor. How do I calibrate this sensor? It needs to be scaled and I honestly have no idea how to accomplish this? We did not want to use the onboard map sensor due to the risk of having failure and not being able to change it easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members MR2 Biohazard Posted January 12, 2018 Members Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 Email Matt at DIY and I would think he would have the calibration for it. Also, there is a big megasquirt forum that should be able to answer that one easy. Personally I would just get a 1bar tmap sensor as it will work much better for you. https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/129_143/products_id/2270?osCsid=glao145dec8esvg3ere1e599i0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BollingerChump Posted January 12, 2018 Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 Another good resource, more there than just this one: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhr650 Posted January 12, 2018 Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 Is your MAP sensor mounted directly onto the manifold? If it is the Bosch that Troy linked to will work, if it is remote mounted just get a GM sensor and be done with it. When I did my MS3Pro I took the path of least resistance and converted my engine over to all GM sensors. I drilled and tapped the water pump housing and intake manifold to 3/8 NPT for coolant and intake air sensors, used a 1BAR GM MAP sensor and even made a little ring to fit a GM TPS sensor. I also used GM coils, all of this because it is what the MS is baselined with so you don’t have to do calibrations to use your existing sensors, and every parts store in the country has replacements if you ever need one. A lot of people try to reuse as much of the factory wiring and parts as possible, I went in the opposite direction and didn’t use an inch of the existing wiring, or any stock sensor except for the crank angle sensor. Also people make the mistake of thinking about how to set up the engine based on how the factory did it, once you convert over forget how the factory did it and do what works best for the MS. You will get much better results with much less headaches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogren-Engineering Posted January 12, 2018 Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 I use all GM map sensors . Cheap and they come 1,2,or3 bar . I have TS( version 3.0.28) up now it it has the map sensor calibration tab under sensor calibration. I dont use a TPS for the race cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbogrill Posted January 12, 2018 Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 1 hour ago, Mopar 4 Life said: Hey, So my team has decided to spend some money and get a ms3pro evo ecu for our neon. I am having trouble trying to use the stock map sensor. How do I calibrate this sensor? It needs to be scaled and I honestly have no idea how to accomplish this? We did not want to use the onboard map sensor due to the risk of having failure and not being able to change it easily. You need to get the specifications for the sensor and plug those into the MS. You need to know the voltage at cetain pressures, not sure if this is public. If you don't know it you can always measure it, assuming it's 100 at WOT and ~30 at idle? But I would just get the MPX4250.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members MR2 Biohazard Posted January 12, 2018 Members Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 Also, convert over to COP setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogren-Engineering Posted January 12, 2018 Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 Common sensor values are given in the table . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mopar 4 Life Posted January 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 1 hour ago, MR2 Biohazard said: Also, convert over to COP setup. That's done, but I can't say what brand they are as it pains me to say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvumtnbkr Posted January 12, 2018 Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 BMW? that is the only thing I could think of that would pain you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mopar 4 Life Posted January 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 13 minutes ago, wvumtnbkr said: BMW? that is the only thing I could think of that would pain you. Worse... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvumtnbkr Posted January 12, 2018 Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 Ford? P.S. I Love the "hugs and kisses". You guys really love that car, don't you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mopar 4 Life Posted January 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 5 hours ago, flyinglizard said: I use all GM map sensors . Cheap and they come 1,2,or3 bar . I have TS( version 3.0.28) up now it it has the map sensor calibration tab under sensor calibration. I dont use a TPS for the race cars. Do you know what cars the map comes from? I will sneak out to the junkyard to steal the wiring connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvumtnbkr Posted January 12, 2018 Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 Those coils are meant for a late-model Toyota ______ (Corolla, Matrix, etc.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mopar 4 Life Posted January 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 18 minutes ago, wvumtnbkr said: BMW? that is the only thing I could think of that would pain you. Honda Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mopar 4 Life Posted January 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 7 minutes ago, wvumtnbkr said: Ford? P.S. I Love the "hugs and kisses". You guys really love that car, don't you? Would you not a love a car that you have lit on fire, dragged all the way around North America, crashed, spun and bought for $150 bucks and a 2-4 of coors light from a guy in a trailer park? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mopar 4 Life Posted January 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 6 hours ago, mhr650 said: Is your MAP sensor mounted directly onto the manifold? If it is the Bosch that Troy linked to will work, if it is remote mounted just get a GM sensor and be done with it. When I did my MS3Pro I took the path of least resistance and converted my engine over to all GM sensors. I drilled and tapped the water pump housing and intake manifold to 3/8 NPT for coolant and intake air sensors, used a 1BAR GM MAP sensor and even made a little ring to fit a GM TPS sensor. I also used GM coils, all of this because it is what the MS is baselined with so you don’t have to do calibrations to use your existing sensors, and every parts store in the country has replacements if you ever need one. A lot of people try to reuse as much of the factory wiring and parts as possible, I went in the opposite direction and didn’t use an inch of the existing wiring, or any stock sensor except for the crank angle sensor. Also people make the mistake of thinking about how to set up the engine based on how the factory did it, once you convert over forget how the factory did it and do what works best for the MS. You will get much better results with much less headaches. Yeah at this point I think I am just making it harder on my self. The map sensor is a pain to change on my car right now so I should probably just change it to a GM style or the stock MS one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhr650 Posted January 12, 2018 Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 29 minutes ago, Mopar 4 Life said: Do you know what cars the map comes from? I will sneak out to the junkyard to steal the wiring connector. If you are staying NA almost any GM from the late 80’s or early 90’s had a 1 BAR sensor on it, and you can get one from any parts store, if you are going boosted you will want the 3 BAR version and you can get those from many online sources. All the companies that sell to the tuner market want to sell the 3 BAR version and it would work OK with a NA engine but why waste 2/3 of your sensors range if you are not running it into boost. This is what it should look like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mashley Adison Posted January 12, 2018 Report Share Posted January 12, 2018 Ebay has the sender with harness for 12$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogren-Engineering Posted January 13, 2018 Report Share Posted January 13, 2018 Mashley you B; https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MAP-Sensor-With-Pigtail-Connector-Plug-Wire-16040749-12223861-For-GM-1-Bar/152609738804?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D47300%26meid%3D6244c25dfec04d1a9bc673999e1a6692%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D272151923740&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 Get 2 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karman1970 Posted January 13, 2018 Report Share Posted January 13, 2018 6 hours ago, Mopar 4 Life said: Honda Why in God's name did you do that?! Also, why the conversion to coil-on-plug? 10 points for what gain? Or is it super-secret? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators E. Tyler Pedersen Posted January 13, 2018 Administrators Report Share Posted January 13, 2018 Why not switch over to an IAT sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvumtnbkr Posted January 13, 2018 Report Share Posted January 13, 2018 Don't you need both? Intake air temp to tell the density of air and map to tell the 'volume' of air. This will tell you how many "molecules" of air you actually have going through the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogren-Engineering Posted January 13, 2018 Report Share Posted January 13, 2018 For a race car , all you need is a slight warm up map. A good wide band input and tach input.. You dont need a TPS. Yes it suffers a little tiny bit at light throttle/tip in. Adding fuel to the tiles directly above the idle tiles reduces any flat spots to an acceptable amount . WOT through the gears can be trimmed to any AFR . Narrow up the advance curve RE to temps to keep the timing under the knock threshold . As long as the wide band works the Micro can run closed loop. You can add the knock sensor input also for more power. and fuel burn rate at part throttle. I run mine in closed loop( with data logging) and tweak the AFR and timing on the dyno, then lock the tables so that a sensor failure wont limp it. On race day the maps are totally locked . Sensor failure wont compromise the maps. A failed TPS might put it in clear mode. A failed coolant temp might show minus 40 and way too much fuel . The fewer the inputs for racing usually has better results. When we get to be a true contender and get close on fuel burn times, I will look at better fuel control at part throttle, maybe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators E. Tyler Pedersen Posted January 13, 2018 Administrators Report Share Posted January 13, 2018 2 hours ago, wvumtnbkr said: Don't you need both? Intake air temp to tell the density of air and map to tell the 'volume' of air. This will tell you how many "molecules" of air you actually have going through the engine. Not for MS I believe. You can run an IAT and tune with speed density Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.