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Pulled the engine and buttoned up the suspension enough to get it on the ground! Put my 16x7 RPF1s on for added affect, although we won't be running them. 

 

My Microsquirt ECU also arrived. Going to be playing with this while the car is away. We will try and get my spare Swift GT (it currently runs) wired up and running off of it (using a homemade harness adapter) and then just plug it into the racecar and go from there! 

 

Taking it to get the cage put it this weekend. Going to be driving to Indianapolis to visit RacerPartsWholesale in person and exchange my seat for the proper sized one and possibly buy a few other safety things while there (i've been told to get a Friend Pork tenderloin sandwich while in town). After that we'll head to St Louis to drop the car off for the cage and then come home. 

 

Hopefully will be downhill (in a good way) once the cage is installed! 

 

Bonus tidbit: I picked up a 16ft trailer yesterday for pretty cheap. Needs new wood, but it's going to fit our needs perfectly. 

 

Kyle 

 

 

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Cage is almost wrapped up! 

Does everything look "OK" so far? 

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Edited by TchDwnUGA
Cows
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Add a dash bar and you should be good. I would also add a couple of vertical bars between your driver's side door bars for intrusion protection.

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For the record, you don't need the dash bar or vertical door bars, but they greatly help, if done right, in a major incident.

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51 minutes ago, mender said:

Add a dash bar and you should be good. I would also add a couple of vertical bars between your driver's side door bars for intrusion protection.

This

 

Leave the tires.

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He's not quite done with it yet so i'll be sure to mention the door bars and the dash bar. 

Thanks for the input! 

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Looks really nice, the only thing I would have done, and I am being nit picky, is try to shove the door bars out a little further since you have the doors gutted. 

 

Definitely a +1 for dash bar and a couple vertical door bars. If the door bars came out a little further you could land one or two vertical bars on the top of the rocker too. A little added beef in a side impact and also with the door bar over hanging the rocker it could help limit the cage from piercing through the floor pan.

 

Edit: like dis guy.... (yes this was a bolt in cage...) https://goo.gl/images/h98id5

 

Edited by pintodave

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I hate to be a jerk and critique others' work, but I now realize how some guys are so quick at building cages, when it seems to take me forever.

On all of my cages, I strive to place all of the tubes as close as possible to the roof, A and B pillars.

This does 3 things.

a) It gives the driver the maximum room possible to try to avoid contacting the cage tubes.

b) It strengthened and stiffens the chassis by welding the cage tubes to the roof, A pillars, B pillars wherever they are touching the BIW. I rarely need to add tabs to join the cage tubes to the BIW structure due to placing them right up against the BIW structure.

c) Placing the tubes as far outboard and high as possible provides the maximum crush space. My day job I work as a Crash Test engineer at an OEM, and I've seen firsthand how valuable crush space is.

"Noding" the tubes together at the joint intersections is also much stronger - the trade off is that it's more difficult and time consuming than landing all or them independent of eachother.

A lot of cages I see are very far inboard and down from the vehicle structure. It is much easier to build them that way, and they may look great. Unfortunately, when a cage is really needed or tested in a crash, looking at the aftermath is when one realizes how much better a well fitted cage to the BIW performs.

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4 minutes ago, mcoppola said:

I hate to be a jerk and critique others' work, but I now realize how some guys are so quick at building cages, when it seems to take me forever.

On all of my cages, I strive to place all of the tubes as close as possible to the roof, A and B pillars.

This does 3 things.

a) It gives the driver the maximum room possible to try to avoid contacting the cage tubes.

b) It strengthened and stiffens the chassis by welding the cage tubes to the roof, A pillars, B pillars wherever they are touching the BIW. I rarely need to add tabs to join the cage tubes to the BIW structure due to placing them right up against the BIW structure.

c) Placing the tubes as far outboard and high as possible provides the maximum crush space. My day job I work as a Crash Test engineer at an OEM, and I've seen firsthand how valuable crush space is.

"Noding" the tubes together at the joint intersections is also much stronger - the trade off is that it's more difficult and time consuming than landing all or them independent of eachother.

A lot of cages I see are very far inboard and down from the vehicle structure. It is much easier to build them that way, and they may look great. Unfortunately, when a cage is really needed or tested in a crash, looking at the aftermath is when one realizes how much better a well fitted cage to the BIW performs.

I spend too much time on mine as well. My dad taught me by example that a hammer fit is the right fit. :)

 

While we're critiquing, I would also have moved the base of the back stays forward a bit and had the stays cross right over top of the rear shock mounts. That way you could tab them into the stays and get rid of that extra bar. Would also have the driver's door bars up a bit more and added a sill bar with braces like pintodave mentioned. Stuff to know for next time.

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A few more pics from yesterday. 
 

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I'm prepared to take the 10pt hit for the rear strut brace. 
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Edited by TchDwnUGA
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2 hours ago, TchDwnUGA said:

A few more pics from yesterday. 
 


s0YXb5.jpg

I'm prepared to take the 10pt hit for the rear strut brace. 
hyNCav.jpg

   Yes 10 points  .   

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