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Remove thermostat - coolant run too fast


turbogrill

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Hi

 

Someone told me not to remove the thermostat since the coolant will run too fast thru the radiator and not cool down.

 

This doesnt make sense at all to me. In my mind the faster the better.

(Sure, at some point the friction between water and surface might create heat.)

 

Could someone that listened in high school physics class explain?

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You are not giving the water enough time to transfer the heat. Works both ways, too fast or too slow doesn't work. 

 

If you want to remove the thermostat limiting the failure in a race then remove the guts of the thermostat and reinstall it. Moroso even sells restrictors in a 3 pack I believe but the original piece works just fine 

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59 minutes ago, cagedruss said:

You are not giving the water enough time to transfer the heat. Works both ways, too fast or too slow doesn't work. 

 

If you want to remove the thermostat limiting the failure in a race then remove the guts of the thermostat and reinstall it. Moroso even sells restrictors in a 3 pack I believe but the original piece works just fine 

100% gut the thermostat or install a restrictor! https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-63440?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-moroso&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuanzgMLz3gIVBx-GCh3DhwtJEAQYASABEgKJg_D_BwE. that kit is nice because you can swap between the 3 and test which one works best for your setup. Found them on eBay too with free shipping. we put the middle size in first then  see if its good or if we need to go bigger or smaller. 

 

Edited by ironworks
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1 hour ago, cagedruss said:

You are not giving the water enough time to transfer the heat. Works both ways, too fast or too slow doesn't work. 

While the end result might be right (use a restrictor), this reasoning, from an engineering standpoint, is booooooooooogus. What people have said in other threads is that the pumps cavitate and therefore pump far slower if there is insufficient backpressure (flow restriction). People assume it is pumping too fast when they remove Tstat and it cools poorly, when actually it may be pumping too slowly.

Edited by enginerd
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Yep, if you had a magical pump that you could run as fast as you wanted without cavitation, you could get the engine to near ambient temps. The more massflow through the radiator, the higher average temp difference you'll maintain and the better cooling you'll have.

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The reduced hole size in a thermostat acts as a restriction. This restriction causes the pressure in the block to be higher than in the radiator (where the pressure is regulated by the cap). This increase in pressure (as high as 60 psi) raises the boiling point of the coolant in the block to prevent localized boiling in hot spots ... Especially where there is less optimal flow.
 More modern cooling systems have better optimized flow and this restriction in some cases may not be as critical in optimizing the cooling system's effectiveness.

Edited by rod rammage
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I want to thank the informative posters in this thread. For every thread I read like this, I wish I didn't have to go through 20 bitching about rules to get here, but threads like this are what keep me coming back to this forum - great knowledge sharing by people who know.

 

 

Edited by CBraden
Edited for clarity.
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So I think I will install a on a pressure sensor inside the block to monitor high and low coolant pressure. A stuck thermostat should result in crazy block pressure.

 

A benefit with monitor in the block vs the radiator is that you get a earlier warning and a more "true" warning. At least that is my theory.

 

I want a thermostat and think we would run to cool without one.

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Im thinking about adding a pressure gauage for the fuel and the water.

 

I ordered a new fuel pump and 15 x 10 wheels for my car. Didn't touch the actual car....  probably won't for awhile.

 

Gotta install my new seat and other new lift pump and exhaust and new lightweight battery and brake upgrade and wiring and....

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/28/2018 at 9:45 PM, red0 said:

I just run it stock, the OEM spent more time and money than I have developing these systems.

Yeah that was my take as well until I had a 2 race old t-stat stick closed and almost cost us an engine. Now we run no stat and regulate temp with tape on the grill on super cold days, but hardly ever need to.  Maintains in the 180 range mostly on it's own...fox body mustang 302

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