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Building your own loading ramps


E. Tyler Pedersen
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I am looking at building two loading ramps for my E30 so I don't have to take the front splitter off the car and my exhaust doesn't drag evrrytime we go in and out of the trailer. 

 

I would like to build them out if wood but I am not sure how to do this. I am a visual person so any pictures would be helpful. 

 

How do I figure out the angle I will need so everything clears?

 

Also I have an enclosed trailer with only a swing down loading ramp. 

 

Thanks in advance 

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I just did mine by getting the splitter very close to contact on the ramp.  5hen I got out my measuring stick and piece of paper.

 

Measure from the splitter to the wheel centerline.  Measure from the ground up to the bott9m edge of the splitter. 

 

You should start to be able to see where your ramp extensions need to be from drawing this out.  

 

This might be easier to explain over the phone.

 

Or, just put a couple of 2 x 6 halfway up the ramps and see if that enough to clear...

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I bought some big rubber door bumpers off ebay.  They raise the rear door by about 8 inches.  Then I used a big paino hinge to attach a full sheet of plywood to the rear door.  This extended the ramp by 4 feet.  Works for my splitter and exhaust.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TRAILER-DOOR-BUMPERS-Rectangular-Rubber-Trailer-Dock-Bumper-RV-Stop-1-PAIR-NEW/192799166000?hash=item2ce3b9ce30:g:Ca0AAOSwiqBcRlvA:rk:19:pf:0

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1 hour ago, Huggy said:

I bought some big rubber door bumpers off ebay.  They raise the rear door by about 8 inches.  Then I used a big paino hinge to attach a full sheet of plywood to the rear door.  This extended the ramp by 4 feet.  Works for my splitter and exhaust.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TRAILER-DOOR-BUMPERS-Rectangular-Rubber-Trailer-Dock-Bumper-RV-Stop-1-PAIR-NEW/192799166000?hash=item2ce3b9ce30:g:Ca0AAOSwiqBcRlvA:rk:19:pf:0

 

Did you need any longer screws/bolts for the new bumps you put on or did you just reuse what you had with the stock bumps?

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7 minutes ago, E. Tyler Pedersen said:

 

Did you need any longer screws/bolts for the new bumps you put on or did you just reuse what you had with the stock bumps?

Pretty sure the hardware was different.   Dad did that job tho.

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Back in my splitter days: jack up the front of the trailer as much as possible, lay two pieces of 4x4 on the ground under the ramp door, cut two pieces of 2x8 to make ramps.

 

Or just buy some from www.raceramps.com and be done with it, but then you'll have $300 in it vs $10. 

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+1 on the longer bumpers and door attached hinged ramps. Also have used our car jack under the hitchball to lift the front of the trailer and improve the angle. 

 

We did race ramps on the old trailer. Work well, but gotta come up with "what to do with them" after you load and you're constantly lifting the door up to put the ramps under or take them out.  With them on the door it's hard to forget them and setup is faster/easier.

 

@Black Magic- Good idea on the trailer tires, we do them on the front of one of our Mini's as the race tires rub at full lock, hadn't thought about it to raise the whole car....

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Find a ditch / shallow area in the ground, pull trailer forward until wheels drop down into it. Ramp will now lay almost flat along the ground for easy loading/unloading.

 

The lower section of the Gingerman paddock is PERFECT for this, I love loading/unloading at Gingerman :) 

 

(obviously this doesn’t help everywhere, but it’s easier than using ramps, so take advantage when you can)

Edited by enginerd
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5 hours ago, E. Tyler Pedersen said:

I am looking at building two loading ramps for my E30 so I don't have to take the front splitter off the car and my exhaust doesn't drag evrrytime we go in and out of the trailer. 

 

I would like to build them out if wood but I am not sure how to do this. I am a visual person so any pictures would be helpful. 

 

How do I figure out the angle I will need so everything clears?

 

Also I have an enclosed trailer with only a swing down loading ramp. 

 

Thanks in advance 

Have a look at these, should be easy enough to copy in wood if you don't want to buy them:

Image result for car trailer ramp extensions

 

Make them in one or two pieces:

Related image

 

Hinge them in the middle, fold them up and use the strap on the end to hang them in the trailer or better yet, on your ramp door.

Edited by mender
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I use the race ramps mender has in his post as my trailer was bought initially to haul a lifted jeep.  I understand not wanting to pay $600 for ramps but if you are lazy, like me, the race ramps page has great instructions on determining what length and rise you need for the appropriate approach angle for your trailer.

Edited by MPRLkld
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I am going to try what @Huggy did since that is a cheap option and can do it pretty quick. 

 

I always load the car with the truck attached to the trailer so I don't want an option of jacking up the trailer. I'll post pictures when I get all done in the next couple of weeks. 

 

I appreciate everyone's help in this thread!

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13 minutes ago, E. Tyler Pedersen said:

I am going to try what @Huggy did since that is a cheap option and can do it pretty quick. 

 

I always load the car with the truck attached to the trailer so I don't want an option of jacking up the trailer. I'll post pictures when I get all done in the next couple of weeks. 

 

I appreciate everyone's help in this thread!

 

I like that idea with a piano hinge and the extended stoppers too. It sounds much easier than my ramps and boards that I have to install each load / unload each time. 

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Tyler we have the tall bumpers and I bought longer carriage bolts from the farm store. The ramps we have are like the large aluminum single that Mender has shown but two single ramps.

That package should clear your car but we still end up tossing down a 2x8 about six feet long with our lowered car.

 

https://pitproducts.com/collections/ramps-and-loading/products/assist-ramps

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On 3/3/2019 at 7:45 AM, Justin9 said:

Have you tried jacking up the trailer at the rear of the truck?  We always had to do that with our old trailer.

 

Put the truck in 4WD Low and drive up on a set of oil change ramps.  No ramp building needed.  And if you blow a trailer tire you can drive the other one up the oil change ramp to change the flat.

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19 hours ago, E. Tyler Pedersen said:

I am going to try what @Huggy did since that is a cheap option and can do it pretty quick. 

 

I always load the car with the truck attached to the trailer so I don't want an option of jacking up the trailer. I'll post pictures when I get all done in the next couple of weeks. 

 

I appreciate everyone's help in this thread!

 

That's why you jack up the trailer with it connected to the truck....  that's how I always did it with my ambulance and trailer...  using one of those harbor freight 3 ton jacks...   who loads their trailer without first connecting the truck?

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5 hours ago, Justin9 said:

 

That's why you jack up the trailer with it connected to the truck....  that's how I always did it with my ambulance and trailer...  using one of those harbor freight 3 ton jacks...   who loads their trailer without first connecting the truck?

 

The winner of the Darwin Awards 

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