turbogrill Posted February 23, 2021 Report Share Posted February 23, 2021 (edited) Hi, In a different thread there was some talk about Honda J engines, starting a new thread to see if there is more knowledge around in this forum. Anyone except @Dimsun Racing has swapped this? I know in WRL there at least 1 car that is running a minivan engine instead of the s2000 engine. Essentially this is the Honda V6 that exists in Minivans, SUVs, sedans. Power starts at 200 and up, displacement is 3.0 to 3.7. There are some aftermarket parts but only by 1-2 companies, not like the K engine. They seem cheap, you can get JDM engines from $400. The early ones are DBC. They are all aluminum and probably decent in terms of weight, they seem to be compact. @Dimsun Racing has swapped this engine into a Datsun and it looks tiny. The downside is there is no OEM RWD platform. However you can buy adapters for them for different transmissions. They also make them fit into NA/NB Miatas and if it can fit in a miata it should fit into anything? For the Miata they: - Use starter, flywheel etc from Civic - Use Miata clutch disc and clutch fork - Intake seems like it can be reversed but the coolant pipes are facing the firewall. More details about the Miata swap, https://storage.googleapis.com/wzukusers/user-34892593/documents/5dd7e0c15de61iVBShaN/JV6 MIATA MANUAL.pdf Here is a link to the other thread, Here is one in a s2000: Edited February 23, 2021 by turbogrill 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LuckyKid Posted February 23, 2021 Report Share Posted February 23, 2021 In NB Miata the VPI would be 1059. In an NC Miata the VPI would be 822. Not much to discuss in regard to the miata. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
67Mustang Posted February 23, 2021 Report Share Posted February 23, 2021 Nah, it's not a V8, should be free points I suspect... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbogrill Posted February 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2021 Wouldn't be for a Miata, but if they can fit them into a Miata they could fit into anything? This is a GP1 S2000 WRL car, shifting at 6000 rpm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bandit Posted February 23, 2021 Report Share Posted February 23, 2021 LS is always the answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbogrill Posted February 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2021 42 minutes ago, Bandit said: LS is always the answer. Agree! The interesting thing with this engine would be that the lowest rated 3.5 engine is 210hp whilst the highest 3.5 is rated 289hp. There are lots of differences between the two but curious what a 210hp version could do with bolt ons. That is 210hp in a minivan setting, so boring exhaust and intake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dimsun Racing Posted February 24, 2021 Report Share Posted February 24, 2021 An S2000 Jswap. He ran the coolant pipes down the plenum to the front. He put the starter underneath from the engine side https://honda-tech.com/forums/hybrid-engine-swaps-18/turbo-j32a2-s2000-build-thread-3017287/ My swap build page on hybridz https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123705-honda-v6-swap/#comments 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbogrill Posted February 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2021 2 hours ago, Dimsun Racing said: An S2000 Jswap. He ran the coolant pipes down the plenum to the front. He put the starter underneath from the engine side https://honda-tech.com/forums/hybrid-engine-swaps-18/turbo-j32a2-s2000-build-thread-3017287/ My swap build page on hybridz https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123705-honda-v6-swap/#comments Thanks this is great! The NAPA/Starter episode was funny So, did I get this right: - you made your own adapter to make sure the bellhousing of the L28 tranny would fit the J engine, something similar to http://inlinepro.com/inlinepro-j2e36-e46-bmw-gen-2-adapter-plate/ -You made a thick spacer to push out the flywheel so it sits "outside" the adapter plate, something similar to http://inlinepro.com/inlinepro-flywheel-spacer/ - Flywheel is 92-05 Accord 4 cyl (is the flywheel spacer machined to fit this flywheel only or would it "fit" without the spacer? Is the flange or whatever it's called the same?) - Pressure plate is also Accord but disc is Z. Interesting that the Z did fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dimsun Racing Posted February 24, 2021 Report Share Posted February 24, 2021 (edited) 4 hours ago, turbogrill said: -You made a thick spacer to push out the flywheel so it sits "outside" the adapter plate, something similar to http://inlinepro.com/inlinepro-flywheel-spacer/ - Flywheel is 92-05 Accord 4 cyl (is the flywheel spacer machined to fit this flywheel only or would it "fit" without the spacer? Is the flange or whatever it's called the same?) - Pressure plate is also Accord but disc is Z. Interesting that the Z did fit. Yes adapter bolts to engine and trans from each side. The flywheel spacer (pic attached) is so it sits the right distance from the trans so the input splines engage the clutch disc and the T/O bearing is at the right distance to push the pressure plate. The OD of the rear crank flanges (4 and 6 cyl) are also the same, that's where the flywheel centers. the adapter plate has a large centered hole that completely clears the flywheel, larger than the InlinePro plate. 4 banger flywheel has the same 8 bolt pattern as the V6 just the center hole needs to be enlarged to the smaller center flange of the flywheel spacer yes clutch disks have almost exact same OD and ID of the friction material, it was one of those things that just clicked into place. That and the symmetrical intake saved a lot of work Edited February 24, 2021 by Dimsun Racing 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbogrill Posted February 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2021 8 hours ago, Dimsun Racing said: Yes adapter bolts to engine and trans from each side. The flywheel spacer (pic attached) is so it sits the right distance from the trans so the input splines engage the clutch disc and the T/O bearing is at the right distance to push the pressure plate. The OD of the rear crank flanges (4 and 6 cyl) are also the same, that's where the flywheel centers. the adapter plate has a large centered hole that completely clears the flywheel, larger than the InlinePro plate. 4 banger flywheel has the same 8 bolt pattern as the V6 just the center hole needs to be enlarged to the smaller center flange of the flywheel spacer yes clutch disks have almost exact same OD and ID of the friction material, it was one of those things that just clicked into place. That and the symmetrical intake saved a lot of work And building the flywheel spacers seems to be the most difficult thing? at least it requires some fabbing skills or access to tools. What differs your spacer to the InlinePro one? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dimsun Racing Posted February 24, 2021 Report Share Posted February 24, 2021 (edited) 2 hours ago, turbogrill said: And building the flywheel spacers seems to be the most difficult thing? at least it requires some fabbing skills or access to tools. What differs your spacer to the InlinePro one? thanks The flywheel spacer is 2nd in difficulty to locating the dowel locator pins on the main adapter plate It's about $20 worth of aluminum and 2-3 hours on a small manual lathe and a drill press with a rotary table. All racers need to be friends with a local hobby machinist, or a rental machine shop or rental fabrication shop. The difference with the InlinePro spacer is their's costs $300, the dimensions are virtually the same. The only thing that might be different is the height (thickness), that depends on where the flywheel surface needs to be positioned in relation to the input splines and T/O bearing. The J30 to 280z 5 speed and T5 is 3/4". The main adapter plate thickness affects this also. The J30 to Z 5 speed I used a 5/8" thick main adapter and the J32 to T5 I'm using a 1/2" main adapter after I realized 1/2" was thick enough. I'm going to have to do a complete write up with pictures, I promised to do it before. The only problem is the J to T5 is unproven and it's a little bit different from the J to Z trans that is already proven, 8 race weekends and a couple hard crashes, no cracks. Putting a starter hole in the Z trans bell housing looks sketchy but it worked. Don't know how putting a starter hole in the Mustang bell housing is going to hold up. Guessing it will be okay but it's not tested yet. Edited February 24, 2021 by Dimsun Racing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mender Posted March 19, 2021 Report Share Posted March 19, 2021 How about a Rat swap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bandit Posted March 19, 2021 Report Share Posted March 19, 2021 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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